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Replacing front brake switch?

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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
It is very possible you did not break it but maybe just dislodged the little v-wedge that holds it forward. The switch is on when it comes out. In my opinion on my bike it is a pain since I need to break bars and drop them down due to cable length. Then you need to protect tank with blankets. Break open the clam shell and it is like 5 lbs of stuff in a 4 lb bag. Remove the throttle cables. You need to cut out factor hard wired switch since it is not plugged in, solder and shrink wrap new switch and arrange all the wires and get that stupid v-spring back in and snapped in correctly. If you have the patients of Job go for it.
So since I put apes on I need to take the wires out of the bars or just remove the switch and solder the new one into the harness in the housing? I am sure the switch is broken. The plastic nipple is gone on the end. I compared it to my wife's bike and I am sure mine is toast.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin79
So since I put apes on I need to take the wires out of the bars or just remove the switch and solder the new one into the harness in the housing? I am sure the switch is broken. The plastic nipple is gone on the end. I compared it to my wife's bike and I am sure mine is toast.
Been a while, no manual and on extended vacation. I think I pulled cables trying to keep from laying bars down when I slid throttle off end. But basicaly I would not think so. Once your remove the screws that hold the clam shell together, mine had a couple ty-wraps securing wiring. I cut that and straighten it out of the way and took my fine needle nose and pulled the spring wedge up and the switch drops out. I cut the wires near old switch (mine had burnt up and was sticking on or not working half the time) Took new switch and cut excess wire (think I left 2" too much) slid on shrink wrap and soldered wires and shrunk it and managed to get it all back together. It would be helpful to have an extra hand to coordinate it.

Just seemed to require a lot of tools and hang on to clam over bike and make it hold still and try to solder and all. And I really think I have more patients then most. Do not forget the cardboard shim between rubber boot and lever when you go back together. I know the little rubber seal boot is easy to tear but I am not sure how you broke the plastic plunger off. Is your brake light staying on?
 
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 24, 2013 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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The switch still works but the plastic end on the plunger is gone. I managed to push out on the switch enough that it works at the moment but its very sensitive so you barely touch the brake lever and the brake light comes on.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin79
The switch still works but the plastic end on the plunger is gone. I managed to push out on the switch enough that it works at the moment but its very sensitive so you barely touch the brake lever and the brake light comes on.
Yup....its busted. Exactly what happened to mine. I even found the little plastic end in my lever. Looks like youre changing the switch. What helped me was taking several close up pictures of the inside of the housing before i took it all apart, so I could see how it went back together. Good luck!!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RaceFace
Yup....its busted. Exactly what happened to mine. I even found the little plastic end in my lever. Looks like youre changing the switch. What helped me was taking several close up pictures of the inside of the housing before i took it all apart, so I could see how it went back together. Good luck!!
Awesome. Just when I was celebrating that my new bars were done. Oh well, live and learn.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin79
Awesome. Just when I was celebrating that my new bars were done. Oh well, live and learn.
I know. I felt the EXACT same way.....FINALLY done.....NOT!! I would have never even known except I have a BAL-1 taillight and I happened to see it lighting up the boxes behind the bike and thought to myself "That doesnt look right". I started messing with the bike and realized the light didnt work with the rear brakes applied and it acted weird when I would jiggle the front lever. I got further into it and found what the problem was. I'm sure glad I was paying attention to the taillights reflection on the boxes. I ride alone and I probably wouldnt have anybody tell me I had brake light issues !
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RaceFace
I know. I felt the EXACT same way.....FINALLY done.....NOT!! I would have never even known except I have a BAL-1 taillight and I happened to see it lighting up the boxes behind the bike and thought to myself "That doesnt look right". I started messing with the bike and realized the light didnt work with the rear brakes applied and it acted weird when I would jiggle the front lever. I got further into it and found what the problem was. I'm sure glad I was paying attention to the taillights reflection on the boxes. I ride alone and I probably wouldnt have anybody tell me I had brake light issues !
Well I guess it could have been worse. At least all of the hand controls work correctly after the ape install. Wonder what the dealer would charge to change the switch if I just let them do it.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin79
Well I guess it could have been worse. At least all of the hand controls work correctly after the ape install. Wonder what the dealer would charge to change the switch if I just let them do it.
Awww man, they will stick it to you....and won't even kiss you first!! Just go get the Drag Specialties switch and get after it. It took me about half an hour and cost me $16.00. You can do it man!!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RaceFace
Awww man, they will stick it to you....and won't even kiss you first!! Just go get the Drag Specialties switch and get after it. It took me about half an hour and cost me $16.00. You can do it man!!
Yeah that's my plan. I bet the dealer would want 2 hours plus the $75 switch. I am gonna order the switch now. Not like I am missing any riding considering its 30 here and no relief in sight.
 
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