11.8 Volts enough ???
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Monroeville, Pa.
11.8 Volts enough ???
Just had my battery checked and its putting out 11.8 volts. Bike is an07 FLHTC with 60k on the clock. Engine light and battery discharge light came on yesterday. Assuming something wrong with charging system. Getting it checked out by my HD dealer tomorrow. Do I spend 170.00 on a new battery or just roll the dice ???
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,508
Likes: 169
From: WPB, FL
MINIMUM voltage will be what the battery shows at rest. A 12 volt system (battery) should measure 12.9 volts at rest. That is a fully charged battery! 12.2 volts is a 25% DISCHARGED battery. At 11.8 volts you have a severely discharged battery, either on its way out or not being recharged at a high enough rate while the bike is running. My first question would be, how old is the battery? I would also be interested in knowing how many volts it is showing at a high idle (3000 RPM).
Banned
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 11,232
Likes: 16
From: Socialist Republic of the USA
IDK what to tell you other than a couple of my own experiences. I have an 01 Road King and got 9 years (yes, 9) out of the stock battery before it started showing signs of needing replaced. I was pretty good at keeping it on a tender even though I ride year round. When it needed to be replaced I bought an Odyssey and it wants to crank the starter off the bike and I always thought that would be my go to battery. But at about 30 pounds I will prolly next time go with a lithium ion battery at about 3 pounds.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 827
Likes: 3
From: NW Florida
You need to seriously consider a new battery before you cause damage to your charging system. I believe you got your money's worth out of the original one. You could probably get a better deal from a local battery warehouse or even here, Advance Auto
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...&showTitle=no+
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...&showTitle=no+
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 65
Likes: 2
From: CENTRAL IL
could be other things
1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
Identifying Wires:
Positive LeadNegative LeadReadingAC output 1Battery charge leadVoltageAC output 2Battery Charge LeadVoltageBattery charge leadAC output 1∞Battery charge leadAC output 2∞GroundAC output 1VoltageGroundAC output 2VoltageAC output 1Ground∞AC output 2Ground∞
1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
- AC Output Check:
- Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
- Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
- Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
- The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
- Generic Specs:
- 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
- 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
- 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
- Stator Resistance Check:
- Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
- Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
- Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
- Generic Specs:
- 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
- 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
- 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
- Stator IB test or Ground Check:
- Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
- Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
- There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
- If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
Identifying Wires:
- Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
- AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
- Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
- Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
- Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
- Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
- Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
- Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
- The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
- Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
- The reading should be Infinite.
- With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
- The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
- Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
- The reading should be Infinite.
- Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive LeadNegative LeadReadingAC output 1Battery charge leadVoltageAC output 2Battery Charge LeadVoltageBattery charge leadAC output 1∞Battery charge leadAC output 2∞GroundAC output 1VoltageGroundAC output 2VoltageAC output 1Ground∞AC output 2Ground∞
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,462
Likes: 57,017
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
could be other things
1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
Identifying Wires:
Positive LeadNegative LeadReadingAC output 1Battery charge leadVoltageAC output 2Battery Charge LeadVoltageBattery charge leadAC output 1∞Battery charge leadAC output 2∞GroundAC output 1VoltageGroundAC output 2VoltageAC output 1Ground∞AC output 2Ground∞
1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
- AC Output Check:
- Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
- Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
- Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
- The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
- Generic Specs:
- 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
- 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
- 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
- Stator Resistance Check:
- Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
- Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
- Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
- Generic Specs:
- 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
- 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
- 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
- Stator IB test or Ground Check:
- Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
- Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
- There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
- If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
Identifying Wires:
- Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
- AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
- Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
- Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
- Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
- Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
- Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
- Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
- The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
- Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
- The reading should be Infinite.
- With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
- The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
- Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
- The reading should be Infinite.
- Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive LeadNegative LeadReadingAC output 1Battery charge leadVoltageAC output 2Battery Charge LeadVoltageBattery charge leadAC output 1∞Battery charge leadAC output 2∞GroundAC output 1VoltageGroundAC output 2VoltageAC output 1Ground∞AC output 2Ground∞
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,302
Likes: 274
From: Milton, Delaware
Alternator?
Sure it will, does it all the time on cars.
However, you're correct on a stator.
Yeah, I know- I'm nitpicking here.
