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Header pipe installation?

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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 02:32 PM
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Default Header pipe installation?

I'm not much of a wrencher.

How hard is it to install a set of Superflow de-catted header pipes? I know I can handle the XIEDs so I'm not worried about that part.

The dealership here says it'll cost me $182 to install the pipes, even though I'm only using them for the labor.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 02:42 PM
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It's not hard, you will need a torque wrench. You can usually borrow one from the local parts store for free. Better yet try and find someone that can help you and learn a little about your bike in the process. That $182 is probably 2 hours labor, so not too bad.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jgreth
I'm not much of a wrencher.

How hard is it to install a set of Superflow de-catted header pipes? I know I can handle the XIEDs so I'm not worried about that part.

The dealership here says it'll cost me $182 to install the pipes, even though I'm only using them for the labor.
piece of cake, make sure you buy the SE exhaust gaskets though. They work great...
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 02:54 PM
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I don't own the service manual. Would you recommend attempting this without one?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by smkinnan
piece of cake, make sure you buy the SE exhaust gaskets though. They work great...
Absolutely no disrespect intended but the majority of the aftermarket pipe manufacturers seem to recommend the stock conical gaskets. They are much easier to seal for someone who hasn't installed a pipe before as well. If you don't already have one, its a good idea to buy a 1/4 drive swivel head socket for one of the front flange bolts.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 03:00 PM
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I also read about using stock gaskets. My bike is new still... only 1400 miles. Should I really get new gaskets or reuse original ones?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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Also, according to the B&E page "Heat shields & cross over pipe or gaskets not included"

Gaskets I can just get from the HD dealership I'm sure. Can I use the stock heat shield?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jgreth
I also read about using stock gaskets. My bike is new still... only 1400 miles. Should I really get new gaskets or reuse original ones?
No, replace them! Cheap insurance. When you place the new gaskets in, try to push them in as evenly as possible working around the edges of the gasket equally. They usually go in pretty tight and if you **** the gasket too far off center you can damage it. I don't recall the torque sequence on the flange bolts but I recommend you follow it. Someone will chime in with it since you don't have the book. If not I can get it from my book later. Also, use a drop of Loctite on the bolt that bolts to the transmission cover on the right side and holds the exhaust bracket. That's a common source of an oil leak due to the bolt vibrating loose.
 

Last edited by Rickr01; Apr 9, 2013 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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Let the dealer do it. Too many members start theads after they have snapped a exhaust stud in the head and try to figure out how to replace it.

Also, lots of threads with exhaust leaks after pipe changes

It's a pita to do w/o the bike on a lift or jack.

If you have worked on your bike and don't have the SM, you probably shouldn't attempt this.

I'm not a tech and you don't have to be to swap out the pipes--I've done it twice. But I did them on a buddie's lift and used a couple of his tools that I didn't have.

Good luck.

Carl
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 03:22 PM
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Default torque values

Originally Posted by KCFLHRC
It's not hard, you will need a torque wrench. You can usually borrow one from the local parts store for free. Better yet try and find someone that can help you and learn a little about your bike in the process. That $182 is probably 2 hours labor, so not too bad.
Rear cylinder- 1st torque bottom bolt to 15-20 in-lbs; then do top bolt to 90-120 in-lbs; then do bottom bolt to 90-120 in-lbs

Front cylinder- same as rear cylinder only do the top bolt first
 
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