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Brembo problems

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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:42 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by skratch
you said they were cvo takeoffs. why were they taken off? hate to say it, but you might have some bad parts.
Yes, was thinking that as well. Maybe the bike was crashed and the calipers are tweaked a bit at the mounting pads. Mounted up though without the pads everything appears dead on.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Harleypingman
So many folks have done this w/o issues, the problem is with the parts, your bike (e. g. ) damage to the forks), or poor installation.

I did mine a couple of years ago and started a thread about it--I son't recall anything about having to drill anything. I do recall buying a chrome banjo bolt used on the CVO master cylinder.

Hope you figure it out.

Carl
The lower brake line was new last year from magnum. It was for a 3/8 banjo on the older style calipers. The newer lines are a different part number as I assume this for the 10mm banjo for the brembo caliper. That's why I drilled it out rather than springing for a new line.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by jay flex
hey not sure if this helps but I encountered this problem when I put a 21 inch wheel on my sg.Same deal caliper pushed rotor, spongy lever.my advice is loosen the wheel and caliper,not sloppy loose.Spin the wheel hard a few times and lock up the brake.do this a fe w times and on the last time hold the brake and tighten everything back up starting with the wheel.1 other question did u mess with the triples at all? good luck
This has me thinking. Glad to hear someone else has seen the flexing rotors and soft lever. Trees are good.


Just want to say thanks to those following along and shouting out some ideas. Will report back when I get it solved. Hopefully sooner than later...lol


Thanks
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:10 PM
  #34  
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The rotors should be checked for being warped. A warped rotor will kick the pads back. If you pump the brakes 2-3 times do they firm up?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:24 PM
  #35  
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the spongy lever I had was hard spongy.The lever never had that first 1/4 of no resistance .Its full right from the start but u can still pull it half way.Kinda hard to explain
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:40 PM
  #36  
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I did the swap a month ago and had no issue at all. Did you also get the Brembos master cylinder? When I bleed my brakes I use a vacuum pump, from Harbor Freight, the hand held, pump type. I put the hose over the bango bleeder losses and suck the fluid from the master cylinder while depressing the break handle. This insure all air is out.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:42 PM
  #37  
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You say the trees are OK. So loosen the lower tree pinch bolts, loosen the axle nut (left side), loosen the axle pinch cup nuts (right side), check your caliper alignment, tighten the axle nut, check your caliper alignment, pull the lower right leg out to touch the 9/16" drill bit, tighten the axle pinch cup nuts, check your caliper alignment, tighten the lower tree pinch bolts, check your caliper alignment. How is it now?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 09:02 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by streeter
brembo upgrade not working out.....yet.

Take off CVO calipers
Take off master cylinder
11.8 rotors, fixed
Same wheel, axles and spacers

Here is the issue,

bolted every thing up and bled the brakes. Noticed lever was spongy and thought just needed more bleeding. Not so, notice the rotors where flexing near the caliper and the wheel was fairly tight to turn. Seemed odd, loosened both calipers exactly a quarter turn and bingo!! very firm lever and little wheel drag. The spongy lever was from the rotor flexing, but what gives.

Tried shimming the calipers, no luck there.
Can push all 4 pistons back, so nothing is stuck.
The calipers appear to centered at the pad boss and seem to be square to the rotor.
tried to narrow down to a single caliper by torquing one and backing one off, but they both are binding on the rotor.

seems as if the calipers are not square or loaded when torqued. that would give uneven pad wear and shouldn't load the rotors lie this.

Back off the bolts quarter turn and all is good..............any ideas??????

Thanks
Have you changed the wheel size, read somewhere if the wheel size has changed the rotor size needs to be changed also.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 09:31 AM
  #39  
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There is none.........

To date I have taken apart the master cylinder and calipers and found nothing. Pistons seals, Orings, ports.......everything is fine.

taken the spacers off the axle to float the wheel........
aligned and realigned the calipers, forks etc.........
turned the wheel around........

loosen the 4 caliper bolts a quarter turn and the system is fine......hard lever and the wheel turns freely

Tighten the 4 caliper bolts to spec and the wheel binds and the lever gets soft

The soft lever comes from the fact that the rotors flex towards the opposing pad/piston

You can actually see this happen, the opposing pad/piston is not moving out towards the rotor. We are talking about .005 of movement here.

no leaks, no sticking, nothing seized, good master, good calipers. my next move is to change the lower brake line assembly. Never have I seen anything like this before........and I have seen a lot.......lol
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 09:59 AM
  #40  
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Have you squeezed the lever without pads installed? You can get several strokes before the pistons pop out. Do the inner pistons move about the same as the outers?

You indicate you have had the calipers apart. Did you keep track of which piston goes in which bore? If so, you might try the inner pistons in the outer bores and the outers installed in the inner bores. If the problem continues, all new seals in the calipers so friction is comparable among all all pistons.

Perhaps there is restricted fluid flow into the inner side of the calipers. Does a quick lever squeeze make just the outer pistons move?

You seem to have eliminated everything but manufacturing defects. Were these an Ebay (or similar internet purchase) or can you take them back to the dealer?
 
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