Pushrod Clatter
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
If your certain the noise is lifter tapping and your bikes out of warranty, yes, get some decent lifters ( I used VThunder by Comp Cams, good quality and under $75 ) and the HD SE tapered adjustable pushrod kit that includes everything you need. Word of advice if you go with the SE pushrods, do three(3) full turns on them and not the 2 1/2 turns that they call for in the instructions. Your also need the 2 gaskets for the tappet block covers.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Denver Colorado
Before you go into replacing the stock pushrods and or lifters you might do an oil change from stnd weight to syn 50. I did and it does make a noticeable difference for my bike. BTW I changed the lifters and went with Andrews adjustable pushrods when I did my install. No problems after two seasons and lots of riding enjoyment.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,172
From: Oxford, Nc
Again, thanks for the responses. Seems there is a lot of different opinions on this clatter issue with little consensus on how to fix it if it is fixable. My only comment is; the clatter did not exist prior to putting in the new cam. So, the new cam changed something that is causing the clatter. How much money is one willing to spend trying to eliminate the problem? Is it pushrods, throttle slider (whatever that is), head work, rollers, oil, etc....Frankly I am more confused now than before. Maybe I'll just live with the clatter as long as it isn't hurting the engine. Anyway, thanks for the opinions.
I'll report back any differences in noise, clatter, whatever in the next week or so ( all the parts are nearly here now,) so we'll have an actual before and after comparison using my bike too.
For me it'll be easy. If the stock pushrods make a racket, I'll simply cut 'em out and re install my adjustables. ( My bet is I won't have to do that, but we'll see.)
Good discussion guys...
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Terra
It's either an incorrect pushrod preload or a weak lifter(s). The only way to guarantee correct lifter preload is with quality adjustables such as those sold by S&S. Screamin Eagle jam nuts crack and break. Cover gap is a real bitch too. No way I would use those. But that's just me.
It's either an incorrect pushrod preload or a weak lifter(s). The only way to guarantee correct lifter preload is with quality adjustables such as those sold by S&S. Screamin Eagle jam nuts crack and break. Cover gap is a real bitch too. No way I would use those. But that's just me.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
Terra
It's either an incorrect pushrod preload or a weak lifter(s). The only way to guarantee correct lifter preload is with quality adjustables such as those sold by S&S. Screamin Eagle jam nuts crack and break. Cover gap is a real bitch too. No way I would use those. But that's just me.
It's either an incorrect pushrod preload or a weak lifter(s). The only way to guarantee correct lifter preload is with quality adjustables such as those sold by S&S. Screamin Eagle jam nuts crack and break. Cover gap is a real bitch too. No way I would use those. But that's just me.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 17
From: San Jose
I'd bet he is referring to the opening (gap) in the push rod tubes when installing adj push rods.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
The clips cover up that area just fine and the larger area makes adjustment a lot easier. I have only put on about 500 miles with them installed but they are working fine for me so far(knock on wood).
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 17
From: San Jose
No need to convince me, I was trying to add some insight to your question of Lowcountryjoe's statement about "cover gap".
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,172
From: Oxford, Nc
I'm back with the now installed stock pushrods on the Andrews 26 cams. There is only the click at idle attributable to my gear drive. At speed only the slightest "machine noise" is coming from the top end.
I installed new lifters, rocker arms and shafts and did shim the rear pair .007" to get to the .004" I was looking for. Nothing needed on the front cylinder.
I only took it for a short 10 minute ride this evening but I'd guess that this drive train set up is perhaps slightly quieter than with the adjustable pushrods I just removed.
Hope this helps.
I installed new lifters, rocker arms and shafts and did shim the rear pair .007" to get to the .004" I was looking for. Nothing needed on the front cylinder.
I only took it for a short 10 minute ride this evening but I'd guess that this drive train set up is perhaps slightly quieter than with the adjustable pushrods I just removed.
Hope this helps.
