I don't believe that the original S/E adjustables were a problem with nuts cracking. I think that the problem arose with the introduction of their next generation adjustables in 2009 / 2010 (?)

I broke one 10 miles form the house and with all the strange faraway places I ride, 4 less nuts to break ( or come loose,) is fine with me, now that the stockers are back in there.

 

It's the other way around, the ones produced prior to 08 had the brittle nuts......From what I've read that is....

 

Had a nut split on a S/E push rod a few miles from my house. Heard a tapping and made a U-turn. Didn't get more than a .10 mile. Wouldn't want this to happen 200 mi. away in the middle of no where. I don't believe you or the dealer can tell what package has good or bad nuts.
Billy

 

**********************************************

YES, the Cams DID change... The base circle should be the same, BUT the Opening and Closing of the Valves is Different... YOU Should NOT expect the same sounds from the New cams as the Old Ones.

Timing and Lift are different. Take the stock cam NUMBERS (*degrees) so you can see the difference.....
Sound different,,,,They Should.. A flutter or what you call noise IS probably only NORMAL for that New cam set.

I Don't agree to use the old solid p-rods.(****Below explained) IF this is your 09 bike, the OLD Stock cams for instance (intake) closed at 30* Now what IS the different degree numbers Just For That in the new Cams?

The whole Valve geometry Up and Down IS changed and When it happens along with "Plus" the Height of the valves. Your Lifter have More to do in the New found Movement of the new cams..
Yes, the best lifters HD ever made (in you 09) are "B" lifters. They also have to work HARDER than using the old stock cams. I like setting all my New Cams at (using SE adjustable P-rods @ 24thds per inch) a Maximum 4.0 turns pre-loading..(starting with 3.5 T. will usually work well)
Yes that is the Max... Preloading the "B" lifter to eliminate noise.. Im using that preload in my 09 96" using SE255's cams. Quiet they are...

SE adjustable P-rods are my favorites in any of my many builds.
I have Never had any Nut problems with tightening the lock nut.
I come from the 80's using them and thru todays era...(not saying some didn't snap for others,,, they probably did)

Change to different cams= that means Totally different things happening to the same motor AND totally different sounds coming from the valve area to boot.

Now That IS my take on this matter.

Kinda Like CHANGE in other things happening here today....

Remember:
THE Change you Wanted and GOT,,,,may NOT be be the ONLY Change you get..

obama......

That Does apply to you cams also.

signed....REDHEAD

 

So if you did not pull the heads, specifically the rocker arm and still have the solid pushrod, how did you get the old cam out and new cam in?

what about the higher lift cam compressing the lifter more than before and it does not rebound fast enough

Did you change the cam or have someone do it for you. My guess is that there is adjustable pushrods in there. There has been a report that under certain conditions these adjustable rods contact the sleeve. Still think the new noise is from the lifter being worked harder than stock lift casing a valve train tapping

 

"what about the higher lift cam compressing the lifter more than before and it does not rebound fast enough?"


1Canuck:

The Andrews 26 cams that we're talking about here have a lift of only .490" which replaced the S/E 203's that came with my bike from the factory with the solid pushrods. Andrews recommends keeping the stock pushrods in this installation.

The S/E 203's have of lift of .510".

There was never an issue here as to whether he could run them, only if they were what was making his "clatter."

As I posted earlier, there is no "clatter" after I re-installed my solid pushrods last night running the Andrews 26's.

People often assume that an aftermarket cam has a higher lift than stock. Not in this case,

 

Thanks Stiggy, stand corrected on lift