New cams
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 143
From: Santa Cruz
Andrews 21 is very mild. Andrews 26 has kinda been the standard 88 bolt in and hard to go wrong with it. Crane 300-2 is very close to the 26. I wouldn't mess with +4 gear as they don't need/want it.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: N.E. Ohio
Was in your boat when looking at cams when my indy suggested the tw21 for my stock eg standard with, se/ac, Jackpot pipes and carb. Took me 2 rejets on the carb to get it right, engine seems noisier through the intake but has quite a bit more grunt through mid range. Don't have much time on it yet because the weather here won't cooperate.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: michigan
Well crap. I have it down to the 21, s or the 300-2 but leaning towards the 21 because I, m not finding any dyno sheets on the crane.
I have to let them know tomorrow which one to order.
I have to let them know tomorrow which one to order.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,994
Likes: 653
From: bklyn,ny
They are very close,but if you decide to go 95",the Cranes will be much stronger,no hot start problems either....good luck
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Looking for a cam.
You need to know what you are planning. Not Just a cam. Cams are a Give and Take.
IF you just do a low torque cam, USUALLY look for a cam with Earlier Intake Closing.
IF you stock cam closes at 30* then a lesser number WILL get you more compression and that is POWER. Low end Torque. Lower RPM to achieve.
Just an example here is the SE255 on my bike, Intake closes at 25*. That is 5* sooner then the stock cam in my bike. That means it is going to HOLD and GET More compression into the cylinder= POWER
IF the cam I choose has an intake that closes at 40* and my stock one closes at 30*, that 40* cam NEEDS other things to replace the low compression it will have with intake valve closing Later.
so there is the GIVE and TAKE...
It does involve More than the intake valve close BUT Intake Close is a good INDICATOR to use When Only wanting to do a CAM.
Big Cams need More Compression to Off-set their losses. Head work,high compression pistons,flow/port, larger valves etc.......
Cams that will do good in a STOCK bike Mostly have Lesser = earlier closing intake numbers to do Just cams.
IF you want to do High RPM always and don't care about com'n on Early for the low end torque, then you have some Leeway using a cam with later intake closing. BUT NOT Much with out Increasing the Compression.
IF 30* is stock, I'd not go more than max 36* better would be 34*..
Motors run GREAT keeping the ccc 180 at sea level... anything Higher need Other stuff.
Now that is my take here.
signed....REDHEAD
You need to know what you are planning. Not Just a cam. Cams are a Give and Take.
IF you just do a low torque cam, USUALLY look for a cam with Earlier Intake Closing.
IF you stock cam closes at 30* then a lesser number WILL get you more compression and that is POWER. Low end Torque. Lower RPM to achieve.
Just an example here is the SE255 on my bike, Intake closes at 25*. That is 5* sooner then the stock cam in my bike. That means it is going to HOLD and GET More compression into the cylinder= POWER
IF the cam I choose has an intake that closes at 40* and my stock one closes at 30*, that 40* cam NEEDS other things to replace the low compression it will have with intake valve closing Later.
so there is the GIVE and TAKE...
It does involve More than the intake valve close BUT Intake Close is a good INDICATOR to use When Only wanting to do a CAM.
Big Cams need More Compression to Off-set their losses. Head work,high compression pistons,flow/port, larger valves etc.......
Cams that will do good in a STOCK bike Mostly have Lesser = earlier closing intake numbers to do Just cams.
IF you want to do High RPM always and don't care about com'n on Early for the low end torque, then you have some Leeway using a cam with later intake closing. BUT NOT Much with out Increasing the Compression.
IF 30* is stock, I'd not go more than max 36* better would be 34*..
Motors run GREAT keeping the ccc 180 at sea level... anything Higher need Other stuff.
Now that is my take here.
signed....REDHEAD
Wow, +1 on the great info. I'm looking to do cams later this year and this is a big help.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: michigan
Is the 21 known for hot starting issues?
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,648
Likes: 37
From: Monroe, Louisiana
HI all
I been reading and searching for awhile. Looking for more info on drop in cams for my 2006 classic. Thinking about the crane htc 300-2 with a +4* gear or a andrews 21. anyone know where i can find some dyno sheets or more info.
The bike is stock except for se/ac and slip-ons.
Thanks
I been reading and searching for awhile. Looking for more info on drop in cams for my 2006 classic. Thinking about the crane htc 300-2 with a +4* gear or a andrews 21. anyone know where i can find some dyno sheets or more info.
The bike is stock except for se/ac and slip-ons.
Thanks
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
Hq-0034 is a great bolt-in cam. Ran it for a season before I did motor work. If you want torque throughout the whole rpm range this is the cam for you. The 21's will run out of steam pretty quick. The HQ-0034's are a tad bigger than the 26's and a shade smaller than the Crane's. Gave my RK great power throughout the intire rpm range.