New cams
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: michigan
New cams
HI all
I been reading and searching for awhile. Looking for more info on drop in cams for my 2006 classic. Thinking about the crane htc 300-2 with a +4* gear or a andrews 21. anyone know where i can find some dyno sheets or more info.
The bike is stock except for se/ac and slip-ons.
Thanks
I been reading and searching for awhile. Looking for more info on drop in cams for my 2006 classic. Thinking about the crane htc 300-2 with a +4* gear or a andrews 21. anyone know where i can find some dyno sheets or more info.
The bike is stock except for se/ac and slip-ons.
Thanks
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Welcome from riding all yearlong sunny S. Florida....I emailed andrews tech dep't with my riding technique and bike type and they recommended the TW26. Not sure what you're looking for but it's pretty basic to me.. Different cams pull differently at varios RPM's. I went with the 26, cause my riding style is more in the 2000-4000 RPM range. Of course you can make it as complicated as you wish and I'm sure you'll get many responses from more motorheads than me. The important thing for me was having the specialty tools to do the job. Good luck.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: michigan
I have the same motor. 2006 was the last year for the 88. Im wanting a little more low end grunt. The crane seemed like it was between the 21 and 26 but couldnt find much info on it.
Thanks
Thanks
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Hang in there, the techies will be along soon...I had a similar post not long ago and almost everyone steered me in the right direction. Also, when you get that close to chosing a cam, it's like buying a microwave oven, you'll love whatever you get.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 123
Likes: 2
From: dual locations: wash. & az.
Looking for a cam.
You need to know what you are planning. Not Just a cam. Cams are a Give and Take.
IF you just do a low torque cam, USUALLY look for a cam with Earlier Intake Closing.
IF you stock cam closes at 30* then a lesser number WILL get you more compression and that is POWER. Low end Torque. Lower RPM to achieve.
Just an example here is the SE255 on my bike, Intake closes at 25*. That is 5* sooner then the stock cam in my bike. That means it is going to HOLD and GET More compression into the cylinder= POWER
IF the cam I choose has an intake that closes at 40* and my stock one closes at 30*, that 40* cam NEEDS other things to replace the low compression it will have with intake valve closing Later.
so there is the GIVE and TAKE...
It does involve More than the intake valve close BUT Intake Close is a good INDICATOR to use When Only wanting to do a CAM.
Big Cams need More Compression to Off-set their losses. Head work,high compression pistons,flow/port, larger valves etc.......
Cams that will do good in a STOCK bike Mostly have Lesser = earlier closing intake numbers to do Just cams.
IF you want to do High RPM always and don't care about com'n on Early for the low end torque, then you have some Leeway using a cam with later intake closing. BUT NOT Much with out Increasing the Compression.
IF 30* is stock, I'd not go more than max 36* better would be 34*..
Motors run GREAT keeping the ccc 180 at sea level... anything Higher need Other stuff.
Now that is my take here.
signed....REDHEAD
You need to know what you are planning. Not Just a cam. Cams are a Give and Take.
IF you just do a low torque cam, USUALLY look for a cam with Earlier Intake Closing.
IF you stock cam closes at 30* then a lesser number WILL get you more compression and that is POWER. Low end Torque. Lower RPM to achieve.
Just an example here is the SE255 on my bike, Intake closes at 25*. That is 5* sooner then the stock cam in my bike. That means it is going to HOLD and GET More compression into the cylinder= POWER
IF the cam I choose has an intake that closes at 40* and my stock one closes at 30*, that 40* cam NEEDS other things to replace the low compression it will have with intake valve closing Later.
so there is the GIVE and TAKE...
It does involve More than the intake valve close BUT Intake Close is a good INDICATOR to use When Only wanting to do a CAM.
Big Cams need More Compression to Off-set their losses. Head work,high compression pistons,flow/port, larger valves etc.......
Cams that will do good in a STOCK bike Mostly have Lesser = earlier closing intake numbers to do Just cams.
IF you want to do High RPM always and don't care about com'n on Early for the low end torque, then you have some Leeway using a cam with later intake closing. BUT NOT Much with out Increasing the Compression.
IF 30* is stock, I'd not go more than max 36* better would be 34*..
Motors run GREAT keeping the ccc 180 at sea level... anything Higher need Other stuff.
Now that is my take here.
signed....REDHEAD
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 61
From: Near YVR
HI all
I been reading and searching for awhile. Looking for more info on drop in cams for my 2006 classic. Thinking about the crane htc 300-2 with a +4* gear or a andrews 21. anyone know where i can find some dyno sheets or more info.
The bike is stock except for se/ac and slip-ons.
Thanks
I been reading and searching for awhile. Looking for more info on drop in cams for my 2006 classic. Thinking about the crane htc 300-2 with a +4* gear or a andrews 21. anyone know where i can find some dyno sheets or more info.
The bike is stock except for se/ac and slip-ons.
Thanks
But, here is my Dyno sheet for my 2002 FLHTCUI
SE 203 Cams, 95 inch ,flat top pistons and S&S SPO Mufflers
SE/K&N air filter with a SE 6Spd gear set (which has nothing to do with your ride)
I use a SEPRT and tuned by Russel at Lonewolf in Nanaimo BC.
I ride two-up 25 % of the time and commute to and from work.
My fuel mileage after the tune is around 42-44 MPG if I have done my math correctly.
Rob
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Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: michigan
Looking for a cam.
You need to know what you are planning. Not Just a cam. Cams are a Give and Take.
IF you just do a low torque cam, USUALLY look for a cam with Earlier Intake Closing.
IF you stock cam closes at 30* then a lesser number WILL get you more compression and that is POWER. Low end Torque. Lower RPM to achieve.
Just an example here is the SE255 on my bike, Intake closes at 25*. That is 5* sooner then the stock cam in my bike. That means it is going to HOLD and GET More compression into the cylinder= POWER
IF the cam I choose has an intake that closes at 40* and my stock one closes at 30*, that 40* cam NEEDS other things to replace the low compression it will have with intake valve closing Later.
so there is the GIVE and TAKE...
It does involve More than the intake valve close BUT Intake Close is a good INDICATOR to use When Only wanting to do a CAM.
Big Cams need More Compression to Off-set their losses. Head work,high compression pistons,flow/port, larger valves etc.......
Cams that will do good in a STOCK bike Mostly have Lesser = earlier closing intake numbers to do Just cams.
IF you want to do High RPM always and don't care about com'n on Early for the low end torque, then you have some Leeway using a cam with later intake closing. BUT NOT Much with out Increasing the Compression.
IF 30* is stock, I'd not go more than max 36* better would be 34*..
Motors run GREAT keeping the ccc 180 at sea level... anything Higher need Other stuff.
Now that is my take here.
signed....REDHEAD
You need to know what you are planning. Not Just a cam. Cams are a Give and Take.
IF you just do a low torque cam, USUALLY look for a cam with Earlier Intake Closing.
IF you stock cam closes at 30* then a lesser number WILL get you more compression and that is POWER. Low end Torque. Lower RPM to achieve.
Just an example here is the SE255 on my bike, Intake closes at 25*. That is 5* sooner then the stock cam in my bike. That means it is going to HOLD and GET More compression into the cylinder= POWER
IF the cam I choose has an intake that closes at 40* and my stock one closes at 30*, that 40* cam NEEDS other things to replace the low compression it will have with intake valve closing Later.
so there is the GIVE and TAKE...
It does involve More than the intake valve close BUT Intake Close is a good INDICATOR to use When Only wanting to do a CAM.
Big Cams need More Compression to Off-set their losses. Head work,high compression pistons,flow/port, larger valves etc.......
Cams that will do good in a STOCK bike Mostly have Lesser = earlier closing intake numbers to do Just cams.
IF you want to do High RPM always and don't care about com'n on Early for the low end torque, then you have some Leeway using a cam with later intake closing. BUT NOT Much with out Increasing the Compression.
IF 30* is stock, I'd not go more than max 36* better would be 34*..
Motors run GREAT keeping the ccc 180 at sea level... anything Higher need Other stuff.
Now that is my take here.
signed....REDHEAD
Wow very good info... thank you
