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My rpm's don't jump like that in neutral off idle. I have a dead spot if you will??? Just sloppy and lazy.
His motor is a different animal, copying it would be very expensive. Just wanted to make a point that high HP and TQ motors can be responsive everywhere if done right.
I might be beating a dead horse but the more information I can get the better.
See the listing on woods sight, http://www.woodcarbs.com/06-12cams.htm
your cam needs a lower gearing and is labled as a "bar hopper cam" and also needs min 10.5 CR..
How many miles on the build? , This cam has 12degrees more duration than my cam in my 106, it probably pulls hard above 3200-3500rpm.
It's just a a case of bigger is not better..
If you are not 100% sure of your head work I'd reccomend the 555 cams for better low and mid range but your peak numbers will go down some but the bike will pull hard at 2500rpms and up..
The lazy throttle response in neutral would be too low a CR for the cam's needs, or if too big a throttle body-intake is used it will also cause lousy throttle response and if the headers are too big for the set up it will also cause lousy - lazy throttle response or a bog then a surge..
The heads are just hand ported and cleaned up. I don't have any flow numbers so I'm guessing there. They decked the heads so unless I take them off I'll never really know how much they took off them.
My intake has some minor port matching and everything else is stock including pistons.
Yes I did get the stock ECM and a SEPRT with the bike. That's what they created the dyno sheet with. The bike ran hard but pinged quite a bit under load and that was in 60 degree weather. I bought the software and computer cable to tune with the SEPRT but the interface sucks so I went with the TMax. People either love them or hate them. My brother in law has the built 113 and he likes the TMax so I went with it. Some day I would like to do a pro tune with the TMax just so I can have a custom map with timing for my set up.
Running a TMax is like converting to a carb... it IS last century tech. You really will need to find a decent tuner, AND tune with the Delphi,IMHO. TMax will NOT pull timing nor alter fuel tables ON THE FLY for that bad tank of gas. Do what you wish, I am trying to simply give you info on what ACTUALLY works best, and not.... what a distant relation thinks. It is OBVIOUS that last tune (and tuner?) sucks. Look for a better one.
Do NOT listen to some of these guys on here. They FORGET that the 110 head is different and some crap *** 555 Woods. won't work well. There ARE better cams for 110s.
And... as opposed to telling you what I run on my one single bike tuned at home ... I am trying to inform you of all the possibilities. One problem with THIS site, is folks that have a clue get shouted down by the BUY WOODS BUY FUELMOTO guys. They own ONE bike, the do NOT tune, nor do they BUILD. They follow recipes for BATHTUB headed engines. of which your is NOT.
A Redshift 575 works very very well in a 110, for example. The valves in YOUR engine are HUGE compared to a stock head. One needs to remember what THAT does to flow numbers and MATCH a cam.
I'm outta here.
Last edited by wurk_truk; Apr 29, 2013 at 03:23 PM.
Zipper's has a few maps with the 575 cams. I'm actually using one of those maps now.
I posted the CCP numbers you asked for, what does that tell you?
You're in Zipper's country if you are near Baltimore Harley. I got the 575 and had a local guy in PA install them and I think there awesome. You already have the Thundermax which they map for. I actually have a Power Vision and got a great map from Fuel Motto that worked.
Did you say you were running SEProTuner if so the dealership probably put to much gas at beginning. Since that tuner will run in closed loop while smart tune it cannot take the hammer of the throttle. It won't comensate or understand and needs the idle ranges in VE at lower RPM's increased. I can't remember exact numbers. This will help with sluggish take off. Homie is right a good dyno man is hard to come by but worth the trip and money. If you going to change out cams your already spending cash. The reason your brothers or who ever runs good cause it all works together. If I have 110" motor with intake from 06 88TC you will not get what a 110" is capable of. Most Dealerships aren't supposed to Dyno bikes to get performance that is not street legal. When you buy a new EFI equipped model and pay for the power upgrades it needs to be Dyno'd to get best results by someone who puts pride in their work. Is that fly by wire throttle that could be the problem also. Maybe your clutch is slipping. You got a powerful bike keep asking around. Remember just cause 2 bikes are exactly the same doesn't mean they will both run the same. Hope you can get what you need, if I can see a Road Glide do a wheelie you should be able to get the slow start out.
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