What RPM do you consider "lugging"
Lugging is a function of load and engine rpm, not merely engine rpm. You can idle through town in the highest gear without lugging, if there's a slight downward grade. Turn around and go the other way and you would be lugging it, because of the load increase.
3rd gear at 40 mph isn't going to be lugging, but it's not placing the engine in it's peak rpm band either. An engine needing to downshift for more power isn't equivocal to lugging.
As indicated above, but I will stress it one more time, lugging is dependent on rpm AND LOAD. If rpm ALONE determined when an engine was lugging, no engine would survive the first traffic light with the rpm at IDLE (typically 650 to 1000 rpm depending on the engine and vehicle). No load, no harm. Go to wide open throttle with the engine
trapped" at that rpm and it will be destroyed in short order. If you can FEEL THE INDIVIDUAL POWER PULSES regardless of speed or gear selected, you are lugging, if the machine seems happy and smooth, regardless of rpm, gear, and speed, you are not lugging. Hoping for a HARD NUMBER, below which is lugging, and above which all is well shows a complete LACK OF UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT IS GOING ON.
As indicated above, but I will stress it one more time, lugging is dependent on rpm AND LOAD. If rpm ALONE determined when an engine was lugging, no engine would survive the first traffic light with the rpm at IDLE (typically 650 to 1000 rpm depending on the engine and vehicle). No load, no harm. Go to wide open throttle with the engine
trapped" at that rpm and it will be destroyed in short order. If you can FEEL THE INDIVIDUAL POWER PULSES regardless of speed or gear selected, you are lugging, if the machine seems happy and smooth, regardless of rpm, gear, and speed, you are not lugging. Hoping for a HARD NUMBER, below which is lugging, and above which all is well shows a complete LACK OF UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT IS GOING ON.
Learning how to NOT lug and engine takes practice. Riders need to ride and apply guidance they get from experience riders. Whiners need to hit a bar so they can vent on someone paid to pretend the patron is important.
My humble advice is start by riding around the neighborhood and shift to the lowest gear that pulls the bike smoothly, and quietly. Then add (roll-on) enough throttle to feel the bike lurch. If the bike doesn't lurch after adding a 3rd to half throttle, you are lugging. If the bike does lurch, drop down another gear and try again. Eventually your bike will not lurch and the feeling you get from the bike is the response you don't want at any speed. Keep doing this exercise at increased speeds to feel lugging. But, don't do this a lot, you can hurt the engine. That is why I say start at slow parking lot of neighborhood speeds. Learn to feel lugging.
Beary
Lugging is a function of load and engine rpm, not merely engine rpm. You can idle through town in the highest gear without lugging, if there's a slight downward grade. Turn around and go the other way and you would be lugging it, because of the load increase.
3rd gear at 40 mph isn't going to be lugging, but it's not placing the engine in it's peak rpm band either. An engine needing to downshift for more power isn't equivocal to lugging.
I ask, not because I am going to change when I shift--I know I'm doing it right. I ask, because a snappy little answer frequently seen on these forums is "RTFM!!" So, my real question is, if the manual is not even close on this topic, why should I bother to "RTFM?"
...and for those who might say, "Those are the recommended gear shifting speeds for the break-in period," no, they are not. They are simply the recommended shifting speeds. Nothing about break-in is mentioned. Furthermore, if it was for break-in, why would Harley want you to lug your engine during break-in? That would be the worst thing for it.
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