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What RPM do you consider "lugging"

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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 02:53 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by bklynbob
The manual recommendations are in keeping with EPA gas mileage and noise limits. Has nothing to do with real world enjoyment of your Motorcycle.
Oh my gosh. That would explain it. That's terrible.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 03:51 PM
  #52  
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I've got a Big Bore kit installed, but mine seems very happy at 2500 rpm.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 06:42 AM
  #53  
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Chris2fur, it's entirely possible your sprockets were changed, giving you a different overall gear ratio, but it's rather unlikely.

Lugging is a function of load and engine rpm, not merely engine rpm. You can idle through town in the highest gear without lugging, if there's a slight downward grade. Turn around and go the other way and you would be lugging it, because of the load increase.

3rd gear at 40 mph isn't going to be lugging, but it's not placing the engine in it's peak rpm band either. An engine needing to downshift for more power isn't equivocal to lugging.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 07:34 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Clubber
I've gotten so I cruise at 3K because if I need to stop fast, the engine will help.
Amazing the lack of understanding that shows up on occasion. When you need to stop in a HURRY, there is only so much traction a tire can provide and whether that limit is reached using brakes by themselves or combining brakes with the engine, the TIRE doesn't care. There is no way to change the laws of physics when it comes to tire traction.

As indicated above, but I will stress it one more time, lugging is dependent on rpm AND LOAD. If rpm ALONE determined when an engine was lugging, no engine would survive the first traffic light with the rpm at IDLE (typically 650 to 1000 rpm depending on the engine and vehicle). No load, no harm. Go to wide open throttle with the engine
trapped" at that rpm and it will be destroyed in short order. If you can FEEL THE INDIVIDUAL POWER PULSES regardless of speed or gear selected, you are lugging, if the machine seems happy and smooth, regardless of rpm, gear, and speed, you are not lugging. Hoping for a HARD NUMBER, below which is lugging, and above which all is well shows a complete LACK OF UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT IS GOING ON.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 09:03 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by btsom
Amazing the lack of understanding that shows up on occasion. When you need to stop in a HURRY, there is only so much traction a tire can provide and whether that limit is reached using brakes by themselves or combining brakes with the engine, the TIRE doesn't care. There is no way to change the laws of physics when it comes to tire traction.

As indicated above, but I will stress it one more time, lugging is dependent on rpm AND LOAD. If rpm ALONE determined when an engine was lugging, no engine would survive the first traffic light with the rpm at IDLE (typically 650 to 1000 rpm depending on the engine and vehicle). No load, no harm. Go to wide open throttle with the engine
trapped" at that rpm and it will be destroyed in short order. If you can FEEL THE INDIVIDUAL POWER PULSES regardless of speed or gear selected, you are lugging, if the machine seems happy and smooth, regardless of rpm, gear, and speed, you are not lugging. Hoping for a HARD NUMBER, below which is lugging, and above which all is well shows a complete LACK OF UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT IS GOING ON.
OK, OK, we get it. How much more whining do we need to be submitted to. If you can't help answer the question, stand back. People who don't understand are asking to learn, not to be lectured.. over and over. Don't yell what they don't know, teach them what they should know.

Learning how to NOT lug and engine takes practice. Riders need to ride and apply guidance they get from experience riders. Whiners need to hit a bar so they can vent on someone paid to pretend the patron is important.

My humble advice is start by riding around the neighborhood and shift to the lowest gear that pulls the bike smoothly, and quietly. Then add (roll-on) enough throttle to feel the bike lurch. If the bike doesn't lurch after adding a 3rd to half throttle, you are lugging. If the bike does lurch, drop down another gear and try again. Eventually your bike will not lurch and the feeling you get from the bike is the response you don't want at any speed. Keep doing this exercise at increased speeds to feel lugging. But, don't do this a lot, you can hurt the engine. That is why I say start at slow parking lot of neighborhood speeds. Learn to feel lugging.

Beary
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 10:41 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by foxtrapper
Chris2fur, it's entirely possible your sprockets were changed, giving you a different overall gear ratio, but it's rather unlikely.

Lugging is a function of load and engine rpm, not merely engine rpm. You can idle through town in the highest gear without lugging, if there's a slight downward grade. Turn around and go the other way and you would be lugging it, because of the load increase.

3rd gear at 40 mph isn't going to be lugging, but it's not placing the engine in it's peak rpm band either. An engine needing to downshift for more power isn't equivocal to lugging.
Thanks for your input! Actually, on my bike, in 3rd gear at 40 mph, I can idle along okay, but, were I to twist the throttle significantly, I would be lugging the engine. On smooth acceleration the bike really likes to be dropped into 3rd at around 50. Perhaps there were sprocket changes made. A lot of custom work has been done to it and I presumed it was all cosmetic but other changes could have been made.


 
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 06:30 PM
  #57  
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I recently switched from a ‘98 Road King 80” Evo to a 2014 Road King 103” twin cam. I found myself lugging the 103 and had to adjust my riding style. Slipping the clutch more and consciously keeping it above 2000 rpm. The old Evo must have had a heavier flywheel is all I can figure.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 09:21 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Chris2fur
Didn't ask how to shift. In fact, clearly stated that I know when my bike likes to hit the next gear--even gave some shift points. If you had taken the time to read to the end of the post, the actual question was, "How can the manual be so far off?" It is in fact so far off, that I asked if perhaps there had been a gearing change made by a previous owner.

I ask, not because I am going to change when I shift--I know I'm doing it right. I ask, because a snappy little answer frequently seen on these forums is "RTFM!!" So, my real question is, if the manual is not even close on this topic, why should I bother to "RTFM?"

...and for those who might say, "Those are the recommended gear shifting speeds for the break-in period," no, they are not. They are simply the recommended shifting speeds. Nothing about break-in is mentioned. Furthermore, if it was for break-in, why would Harley want you to lug your engine during break-in? That would be the worst thing for it.
Did I say anything about shifting??? I read your original post a few times. My advice stands. Put tape over the tach and learn to ride. Perhaps you're the one with reading comprehension problems.
 
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