Keep in mind unplug the 02 senors so they turn freely before you thread them out.
You may need to spread the cross over to get the gasket and pipe to fit back in right.

 

Go to Harbor Freight and buy the medium tail pipe expander. If replacing the gasket in the crossover this will make it very easy.

 

My bike is a 2012 street glide. I paid $135 from B & E Performance.

 

Thanks everyone for the tips.

 

I will add these thoughts:

-the night before, spray the exhaust studs/nuts with some liquid wrench

-spray the muffler and cross-under clamp nuts and threads with some liquid wrench the night before

-Might want to spray the hanger bolt located at the bottom of the transmission cover plate as well.

Soaking overnight with liquid wrench or another penetrating type fluid will help tremendously when removing nuts and will usually eliminate the chance of you twisting off an exhaust flange bolt...which if done is a real bummer and a lot of needless work to repair.

I use to wrestle with the front top exhaust stud nut. No more. It can be easily accessed by coming in from the front lower left side of the bike. It's perfectly visible and in the clear coming in from that angle.

If you are going back in with an OEM gutted header, you can probably reuse the exhaust gaskets. However, it's better shop practice to replace the gaskets with new OEM gaskets (not the SE gaskets). The flat, thicker side goes in first.

Muffler clamps and the cross under clamp should be replaced with new. These can be re-used, but they are not intended for re-use since they are stretched when installed to final torque and will not grip as well the second time around. Ask me how I know... I would also replace the exhaust flange nuts with new ones.

If it were me, I would remove the heat shields before you remove the header from the bike. A nut driver and a 5/16 socket makes this a quick job. Makes things a lot easier to get to for sure.

Go to Advance Auto, Auto Zone, napa, etc. and pick yourself up a container of Silver Anti Seize made by Permatex. Dab this on the exhaust flange threads, use it where the mufflers contact and slide onto the header on both sides, use it inside and outside of the cross-over gasket and the header nipple that inserts into that gasket.



A set of wobble-extensions are certainly your friends for this job and many others on the bike. Get a set for your tool box.

When you install the new header, make sure it's not touching the frame or any engine component anywhere.

There is a sequence for torquing the exhaust flange nuts. It is done this way to "walk" the header properly into the gasket. Make sure you follow this sequence to eliminate the chance of leaks.

So these are a few tips and I hope they help you out.

 

I have the same pipe from B&E. Just received it yesterday. I plan to install mine in a couple of days. This thread has good info. Thanks.

 

The frequently reported problem is snapping a cylinder head stud. Definitely avoid trying to gorilla the nuts on the exhaust studs.

Carl

 

my head pipe had a crossover, 2007 road king, so all one piece after you take off muffkers, but I couldn't get it off, I got it close and after an hour reached for my grinder and cut that mother off, I had taken off both passenger boards, the right side driver board and the bags, I was close but it started looking like I needed to either take off the rear wheel or maybe raise the bike a foot or two I decided I had enough, chop.<br />
hopefully you don't have the same type pipe.<br />
good luck, <br />
lump

 

this link might help some. http:// custombaggerforum.com/forum/...X-Pipe-Install

 

Your link doesn't seem to be working, but I was able to find the thread. Good info. Thanks for posting.