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Lee Parks wrote the book with Paul Thede, the designer of Race Tech suspension. They say to set sag in two steps. First, lift the bike and let it settle, then push down and let it settle upward. Your perfect sag of 30 or 31 mm ( in the case of the JRi's) should be the average.
Lee Parks wrote the book with Paul Thede, the designer of Race Tech suspension. They say to set sag in two steps. First, lift the bike and let it settle, then push down and let it settle upward. Your perfect sag of 30 or 31 mm ( in the case of the JRi's) should be the average.
Lee Parks doesn't ride my bike. It goes without saying that you load and unload the suspension when setting sag. Regardless, you set sag on a Harley Touring bike with the bags off. If you don't compensate for that weight, your bike's sitting too low.
Got about 750 miles on them so far. For the heck of it, I checked the sag at about 500 miles, and had to tighten it down three more turns. Got the sweep valves at 14 clicks, ride's good and the tie wrap is hitting the bottom on moderate bumps.
It'll be interesting to see how much more the springs settle in the next couple of hundred miles.
I also found that I had to tighten the springs a few turns after break in.
Some of my fellow riders think I've wasted my time and money buying these shocks that need adjustment and tweaking and cost all that money... If they only knew.
I like what you guys are saying. I have the remote reservoir JRI shocks, and just need to touch base with Howard before installing them. I've pulled the stock shocks, and have read the instructions a few times.
I know I did the usual and focused on power upgrades and never suspension. There is quite a bit to it, and I look forward to the enhanced ride on our huge road trip for August.
Just put my JRI 13"s on tonight and understand the preload procedure etc. What is not clear is a starting point with the damping. I understand the "clicks" but from what starting point, full clock wise (very little damping) or full ccw (full damping)?
I would assume starting from full cw but want to make sure. Alot of you are in the 15 to 20 clicks so I'll start there.
Thanks!
Just put my JRI 13"s on tonight and understand the preload procedure etc. What is not clear is a starting point with the damping. I understand the "clicks" but from what starting point, full clock wise (very little damping) or full ccw (full damping)?
I would assume starting from full cw but want to make sure. Alot of you are in the 15 to 20 clicks so I'll start there.
Thanks!
I have JRI B 13" shocks as well, on a 2007 Road King. It is sprung for a 390 lb load for my wife, me, and luggage. I am running on Maine roads, kinda rough, at 21 clicks and it is a beautiful thing. Your setting will depend on your spring rate, road surfaces, and riding style.
I started at 18 clicks, which is a good starting point. Make sure that the adjusters have a good solid click. If the needle valve gets stuck, they won't click won't adjust, and you will need to take them off the bike and rap them on a workbench solidly. Guess how I know.
Good luck. These are great shocks. Changed my bike's ride so much, it added about 10 mph to my average speed.
Just put my JRI 13"s on tonight and understand the preload procedure etc. What is not clear is a starting point with the damping. I understand the "clicks" but from what starting point, full clock wise (very little damping) or full ccw (full damping)?
I would assume starting from full cw but want to make sure. Alot of you are in the 15 to 20 clicks so I'll start there.
Thanks!
Howard will have set them up to a basic setting. Just ride them as they came and leave the dampers alone for a while. They will bed down over the first few hundred miles, then you can start experimenting with them by making small adjustments.
You could screw them fully one way to note how many clicks they were set at, just to note that and then reset them where they were. Which way you go doesn't really matter IMHO, just make a note of what you did for your future reference.
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