Warped rotors
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 407
Likes: 2
From: Bixby Oklahoma
My brake problems update
Recent problems were that I had developed vibration from front braking and was unhappy the stock rotors would be so easy to warp ( second set) and secondly the rear pedal was very hard to press to floorboard. The weird thing was that once I got the pedal to go down the rear would hold me still at a stop on an incline and release as soon as I let off the pedal.
Turns out the front rotors were out .010 on one side and .012 on the other so I went for some floaters for the front - before I saw the recent post about working them back to near flat with an adjustable wrench.
I changed all pads and slid the pitons out to clean them up- as I recall both front and back pistons were very hard to push back in, and the rears were the harderst. Installed speed bleeders and ran new fluid through both systems and the rear pedal got harder to the point it just wouldn't move to engage the rear pads.
Finally went to dealer and they eventuall said they it was the ABS module. I was thinking master cylinder. Read a few posts about this problem but nothing I saw was about the hard pedal. Strange to me there was no ABS light on other than at start up. Kicker is the floaters came in and I went to pick them up and get the brakes bled by the DT and ended up having to wait a week or so to get the bike back.
At least ESP picked up the tab - I bet its well over 500 bucks
So just a little update but comments welcome
Turns out the front rotors were out .010 on one side and .012 on the other so I went for some floaters for the front - before I saw the recent post about working them back to near flat with an adjustable wrench.
I changed all pads and slid the pitons out to clean them up- as I recall both front and back pistons were very hard to push back in, and the rears were the harderst. Installed speed bleeders and ran new fluid through both systems and the rear pedal got harder to the point it just wouldn't move to engage the rear pads.
Finally went to dealer and they eventuall said they it was the ABS module. I was thinking master cylinder. Read a few posts about this problem but nothing I saw was about the hard pedal. Strange to me there was no ABS light on other than at start up. Kicker is the floaters came in and I went to pick them up and get the brakes bled by the DT and ended up having to wait a week or so to get the bike back.
At least ESP picked up the tab - I bet its well over 500 bucks
So just a little update but comments welcome
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 91
Likes: 14
Just to add, if you do not have a dial indicator,
take off the calipers and hold a sharpee felt pen
on the side of the fork leg. Spin the wheel as you move
the pen closer to the rotor, if you are patient you will
put some ink on the high spot. Now you have a reference
to where to bend the rotor back. Not quite as accurate
but it will show you how far off the rotors are.
take off the calipers and hold a sharpee felt pen
on the side of the fork leg. Spin the wheel as you move
the pen closer to the rotor, if you are patient you will
put some ink on the high spot. Now you have a reference
to where to bend the rotor back. Not quite as accurate
but it will show you how far off the rotors are.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,063
Likes: 156
From: pembroke ma
I have floating rotors on my 08 CVO Roadking have been thru 2 sets of factory rotors. I am not hard on my brakes. They just suck. Never had this problem with any of my old bikes. Dealer took everything in my front end apart last year and could not explain why it keeps happening. They want me to order another set and they will eat the labor. I will take them up on it (again) as this has been an on going issue since the bike was new. The strange thing is my buddy has an 07 CVO Roadking and has never had a problem.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 902
Likes: 152
From: Georgia
Mine have that pulsing in the front but I do have the ESP. I didn't know warped rotors were covered. I will check with my dealer first and then do the adjustment if needed. Thanks for the post.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
I've had stock rotors that warped. P51, I would hardly call the stock rotors "semi floating" rotors. Sure there is a button there, but based on all of the warping, it's totally ineffective.
I had HD premium floating rotors with my original Knuckle wheels. They warped too.
I now have the Agitator floating rotor...guess we will see how that one does.
Apparently the floating rotors from HD do not have enough separation between the carrier and the outer ring of the rotor, thus heat expansion can and will cause warping.
Quality rotors made by the likes of Lyndall and EBC will probably last forever with no issues.
Last edited by Lowcountry Joe; Jun 14, 2013 at 10:38 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,063
Likes: 156
From: pembroke ma
Hey Lowcountry joe.
I have the Agitator Rotors on mine (factory set up) and those have warped twice.
I hope you have better luck than I do. I feel that there is ust not enough material to dissipate the heat.
I have the Agitator Rotors on mine (factory set up) and those have warped twice.
I hope you have better luck than I do. I feel that there is ust not enough material to dissipate the heat.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,537
Likes: 4
From: The Great River Road, Wisconsin
Recent problems were that I had developed vibration from front braking and was unhappy the stock rotors would be so easy to warp ( second set) and secondly the rear pedal was very hard to press to floorboard. The weird thing was that once I got the pedal to go down the rear would hold me still at a stop on an incline and release as soon as I let off the pedal.
Turns out the front rotors were out .010 on one side and .012 on the other so I went for some floaters for the front - before I saw the recent post about working them back to near flat with an adjustable wrench.
I changed all pads and slid the pitons out to clean them up- as I recall both front and back pistons were very hard to push back in, and the rears were the harderst. Installed speed bleeders and ran new fluid through both systems and the rear pedal got harder to the point it just wouldn't move to engage the rear pads.
Finally went to dealer and they eventuall said they it was the ABS module. I was thinking master cylinder. Read a few posts about this problem but nothing I saw was about the hard pedal. Strange to me there was no ABS light on other than at start up. Kicker is the floaters came in and I went to pick them up and get the brakes bled by the DT and ended up having to wait a week or so to get the bike back.
At least ESP picked up the tab - I bet its well over 500 bucks
So just a little update but comments welcome
Turns out the front rotors were out .010 on one side and .012 on the other so I went for some floaters for the front - before I saw the recent post about working them back to near flat with an adjustable wrench.
I changed all pads and slid the pitons out to clean them up- as I recall both front and back pistons were very hard to push back in, and the rears were the harderst. Installed speed bleeders and ran new fluid through both systems and the rear pedal got harder to the point it just wouldn't move to engage the rear pads.
Finally went to dealer and they eventuall said they it was the ABS module. I was thinking master cylinder. Read a few posts about this problem but nothing I saw was about the hard pedal. Strange to me there was no ABS light on other than at start up. Kicker is the floaters came in and I went to pick them up and get the brakes bled by the DT and ended up having to wait a week or so to get the bike back.
At least ESP picked up the tab - I bet its well over 500 bucks
So just a little update but comments welcome
But, it sounds like you pulled the calipers apart and cleaned-rebuilt as needed. Just food for thought next time.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Sorry to hear that. Well, if mine warp and I bet they will eventually, if I can't get them replaced, I am going to buy the Lyndall rotors for the Agitator and be done with it.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Glad you got it fixed....however considering how easy it is to manipulate those rotors a few thousandths here and there is simply a testament to how shitty they really are. They will just distort again once they go through a few hot spots and heat cycles. Better keep that wrench handy.