Cam and pushrod question
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Going through the top is a lot of extra work for nothing in my opinion. The less you disturb in your engine, the better. If you can afford the adjustables, you have a great deal more flexibility should you need to change a lifter later, adjust the rod length for more lifter preload to quieten things down a bit, or go back into the cam chest to change cams, oil pump, pump o-rings, chain tensioners, etc. It's just so much more convenient, faster, and gives you total control of lifter preload settings. If you have to go back in a time or two, you will wish you had adjustables. What's not to like?
I believe folks choose to go through the top end and use stock rods (when appropriate for the new cam base circle) for three main reasons: 1)Extra cost of the adjustable pushrods, 2)Fear that the adjustable push rods will not retain their length due to a jam nut crack or improper installation or 3)Fears related to the pushrod adjustment process. All are legitimate concerns, but everyone has their own reasons and circumstances for going with either solids or adjustables.
I believe folks choose to go through the top end and use stock rods (when appropriate for the new cam base circle) for three main reasons: 1)Extra cost of the adjustable pushrods, 2)Fear that the adjustable push rods will not retain their length due to a jam nut crack or improper installation or 3)Fears related to the pushrod adjustment process. All are legitimate concerns, but everyone has their own reasons and circumstances for going with either solids or adjustables.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 2,542
[quote=Lowcountry Joe;11468422]Going through the top is a lot of extra work for nothing in my opinion. The less you disturb in your engine, the better. If you can afford the adjustables, you have a great deal more flexibility should you need to change a lifter later, adjust the rod length for more lifter preload to quieten things down a bit, or go back into the cam chest to change cams, oil pump, pump o-rings, chain tensioners, etc. It's just so much more convenient, faster, and gives you total control of lifter preload settings. If you have to go back in a time or two, you will wish you had adjustables. What's not to like?
What he said. Go with Smith Brothers fast install PR's.
What he said. Go with Smith Brothers fast install PR's.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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Going through the top is a lot of extra work for nothing in my opinion. The less you disturb in your engine, the better. If you can afford the adjustables, you have a great deal more flexibility should you need to change a lifter later, adjust the rod length for more lifter preload to quieten things down a bit, or go back into the cam chest to change cams, oil pump, pump o-rings, chain tensioners, etc. It's just so much more convenient, faster, and gives you total control of lifter preload settings. If you have to go back in a time or two, you will wish you had adjustables. What's not to like?
I believe folks choose to go through the top end and use stock rods (when appropriate for the new cam base circle) for three main reasons: 1)Extra cost of the adjustable pushrods, 2)Fear that the adjustable push rods will not retain their length due to a jam nut crack or improper installation or 3)Fears related to the pushrod adjustment process. All are legitimate concerns, but everyone has their own reasons and circumstances for going with either solids or adjustables.
I believe folks choose to go through the top end and use stock rods (when appropriate for the new cam base circle) for three main reasons: 1)Extra cost of the adjustable pushrods, 2)Fear that the adjustable push rods will not retain their length due to a jam nut crack or improper installation or 3)Fears related to the pushrod adjustment process. All are legitimate concerns, but everyone has their own reasons and circumstances for going with either solids or adjustables.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 9
From: Queen Creek, AZ
Here is a thread where we walked a member through the complete process. He also changed the head gaskets while he was doing the cam change. He did have a manual though. The manual will help you greatly. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...questions.html
Ha! I was just about to post this.....gotta say there is a ton of very helpful information in this thing! Thanks again everyone!
I used to feel the same way, but I've completely converted. They are very reliable, you can set your lifter preload to exact tolerance. They're also stiffer, which means less deformation at high rpms. You can put a dab of Loctite on the nuts, if you want, but I seldom do. Even if I had the rockers off, I'd be using adjustables.
To remove the solid pushrods out the top, you remove the gas tank, and the rocker box covers. Open the pushrod tubes, and choose a cylinder. ( I usually start with the rear). Put the bike in sixth gear, and pull the spark plugs. With the rear wheel, turn the engine over until the piston is at TDC. Then loosen the rockers. You don't need to pull them clear out, just loosen them enough to move out of the way, and pull the pushrods up and out. Put the front cylinder at tdc and repeat.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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I decided to buy the se tapered adjustables today. Planning to put them in this week and I'll be checking back in here for some tips on adjusting the pushrods. Thanks for all the input.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 61
From: Near YVR
Devils advocate I know, but find tdc in first cylinder and determine which is loosest (push rod) and cut with bolt cutters.
Repeat for the other cylinder , then repeat on the other two push rods.
Make sure you have that shop manual when you are attempting all of this or follow the instructions in previous links.
You are not undoing the top end and saving having to remove fuel tank and replace those gaskets, unless you have to of course.
Rob
