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Turn Signal Issues

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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #1  
dankral's Avatar
dankral
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Default Turn Signal Issues

Well, I've been troubleshooting this problem for over a week now and this is my last stop before the dealer on Wednesday. I'm hoping one of you has some ideas.

Bike: 2012 Road Glide Custom

Situation: About 8 months ago I replaced both the rear and front turn signals with Kuryakyn LEDs. Also included the Kuryakyn brake flash modulator wiring harness and a load equalizer plug into the harness. For several months everything worked exactly as designed.

Then, one day while riding it a friend's funeral procession, I had turned my four-way flashers on and that's where things got squirrely! I immediately starting experiencing lighting issues with the bike's turn signals. Several phone calls to Kuryakyn convinced me that the load from flashers probably burned out the load balancer and so they recommended their self-balancing load equalizer. Unfortunately, that did not fix the issue and I'm wondering if I burned something out along the way, or just need to simply reset something?
I put the bike back completely stock again and this is my current situation:

When the bike is running and I turn either the L or R turn signal, both rear turn signals blink together. The fronts operate as designed, one at a time.

The bike is completely stock at this point as far as the lights and I'm unable to fix this issue. I have tried disconnecting the battery to see if the ECM required a reset. I tried pulling the maxi fuse. I even tried some of the "reset" instructions" I found out on the web. All to no avail.

Any recommendations out there???

Thanks in advance!


Dan
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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campos
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88888
 

Last edited by campos; Jun 29, 2013 at 08:00 PM. Reason: deleting
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:01 PM
  #3  
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Def Mute
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This reminds me of a bad ground issue...

When a ground is broken from one bulb, it tries to find any available ground, even going through the other bulb circuit...
Check the sockets, and all cables going to the rear signal lamps, for a broken ground. Even pull the bulbs out and look at the contacts in the bottom. Check continuity between the ends of any ground cables. Might even try running a separate ground cable to each signal, one at a time and check each before moving to the other. Then check both together. Remove any LED signals to eliminate a short in that area.

That's one place to start anyway...
 

Last edited by Def Mute; Jun 29, 2013 at 07:11 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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+1 on ground issue something is feeding back somehow
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #5  
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Same thing happened on my streetglide after a couple hundred miles in the rain. Water was in the rear brake signal module. Once it was dried out it went back to working fine.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 08:04 PM
  #6  
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Thanks for the replies gentlemen! I figured out how to read the diagnostic codes and pulled up B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open.

Now I just need to figure out exactly what that means and how to correct it!

Back to the bike.......
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 08:15 PM
  #7  
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Def Mute
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Probably where the bad ground is...

'Open', in electrical terms, means the circuit is not complete.

Since you mentioned that you had removed the brake flash modulator and load equalizer, maybe look at the connectors where they were installed. Possibly, one of the ground pins could be dislodged?
 

Last edited by Def Mute; Jun 29, 2013 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 09:08 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by dankral
Thanks for the replies gentlemen! I figured out how to read the diagnostic codes and pulled up B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open.

Now I just need to figure out exactly what that means and how to correct it!

Back to the bike.......
If you have a meter or test light you can find it. It is telling you there is an open circuit between the module and the bulb filament (or LED anode) in this case. Pop an incandescent bulb in the sockets on the right side one at a time and see if it changes.
I switched my 12 EG over to bullet type signals, and noticed the socket for the fronts are not keyed, being when I put a bulb in I have to make certain the contact points on the lamp, and the contact points in the socket for the signal, actually line up. The contacts in the turn signal housing actually can spin, without being keyed. It was disappointing to see that an over $200 "upgrade" from the MoCo was made cheaply, as to omit this needed detail.
 

Last edited by VTL nut; Jun 29, 2013 at 09:10 PM.
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