clutch adjustment
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 384
Likes: 15
From: Iowa City, Iowa
clutch adjustment
Going to do my 5000 mile service on the 13 Street Glide this Friday evening. Had the 1000 mile done at my dealer and changed my oil at 2500. Plan to drain all three fluids on Friday and then wait on filling the primary until Saturday to adjust the clutch when cool. A few questions:
Is it necessary to adjust the clutch at this service? Seems to be just fine.
Does the primary need to be full of oil in order to adjust the clutch?
Don't have a jack yet, how important is it to have the bike level while adjusting the clutch?
Appreciate your feed back.
Is it necessary to adjust the clutch at this service? Seems to be just fine.
Does the primary need to be full of oil in order to adjust the clutch?
Don't have a jack yet, how important is it to have the bike level while adjusting the clutch?
Appreciate your feed back.
MODERATOR
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,108
Likes: 1,964
From: New England
Going to do my 5000 mile service on the 13 Street Glide this Friday evening. Had the 1000 mile done at my dealer and changed my oil at 2500. Plan to drain all three fluids on Friday and then wait on filling the primary until Saturday to adjust the clutch when cool. A few questions:
Is it necessary to adjust the clutch at this service? Seems to be just fine.
No. If it's OK with you then leave it.
Does the primary need to be full of oil in order to adjust the clutch?
No.
Don't have a jack yet, how important is it to have the bike level while adjusting the clutch?
Not necessary to have it level but it does make adjusting a bit easier.
Appreciate your feed back.
Is it necessary to adjust the clutch at this service? Seems to be just fine.
No. If it's OK with you then leave it.
Does the primary need to be full of oil in order to adjust the clutch?
No.
Don't have a jack yet, how important is it to have the bike level while adjusting the clutch?
Not necessary to have it level but it does make adjusting a bit easier.
Appreciate your feed back.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,422
Likes: 14
From: Fla
If you're happy with the clutch, no need to adjust it. Might only cause problems after, IMHO...
Oil may spill out of the derby cover if it has been filled already, if not sitting level. Speaking of which, when you fill the primary with oil, the bike should be level to check fill capacity with the level of oil coming to the lower edge of the clutch spring retainer ring. You could just throw 32oz in it, but you never know how much oil is left in the case when it has been drained.
Oil may spill out of the derby cover if it has been filled already, if not sitting level. Speaking of which, when you fill the primary with oil, the bike should be level to check fill capacity with the level of oil coming to the lower edge of the clutch spring retainer ring. You could just throw 32oz in it, but you never know how much oil is left in the case when it has been drained.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
Exactly.....very wise advice.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
Even on the jiffy the primary oil wont spill out unless its over-filled. I wouldnt adjust the clutch even if neutral is hard to click into as it wont make a diff. Ev e n after almost 12k fibding neutral has not changed but thats another thread.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 384
Likes: 15
From: Iowa City, Iowa
Believe it is a T27? So you recommend removing the primary cover before draining the primary? Thanks for the quick feed back.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,445
Likes: 2,811
From: Oklahoma
A slightly different take on this, everything "works fine" or "feels fine" until it doesn't any more. The clutch adjustment is to prevent problems. Because you didn't do it, you have no idea how it was adjusted (if it was adjusted) at 1000 miles. It may not need to be adjusted TODAY, but you will be going another 5000 miles before you think about it again. If it starts to slip at 8500 miles, it could be cooked before you get it home after noticing the problem. Your machine, your decision, but you will have a hard time getting a warranty repair on on a piece not properly maintained.
The presence or lack of lube is not important to the adjustment process but is vital even to the first start afterward. I have heard that the guys who maintain the police machines used in the low speed demos add extra primary oil due to the extra friction zone running used in the courses, so "enough to too much" is better than not enough. If you don't presently have a lift or other way to keep the machine vertical while adding or checking primary lube, perhaps a friend could hold it up while you add/check the oil. Unless they have changed the bolts since 2008, you will need a No. 27 Torx bit for the derby cover bolts. A 25 seems to fit, but it is a loose fit and will strip the sharp ends off the little teeth in the bolts. Follow the manual step by step and you should be fine. The proper torque for the lock nut on the clutch adjusting screw is less than you would intuitively use, get a torque wrench so you don't over tighten the lock nut. Putting the transmission in any gear will help hold the engine/clutch from rotating very much when loosening and tightening the lock nut.
The presence or lack of lube is not important to the adjustment process but is vital even to the first start afterward. I have heard that the guys who maintain the police machines used in the low speed demos add extra primary oil due to the extra friction zone running used in the courses, so "enough to too much" is better than not enough. If you don't presently have a lift or other way to keep the machine vertical while adding or checking primary lube, perhaps a friend could hold it up while you add/check the oil. Unless they have changed the bolts since 2008, you will need a No. 27 Torx bit for the derby cover bolts. A 25 seems to fit, but it is a loose fit and will strip the sharp ends off the little teeth in the bolts. Follow the manual step by step and you should be fine. The proper torque for the lock nut on the clutch adjusting screw is less than you would intuitively use, get a torque wrench so you don't over tighten the lock nut. Putting the transmission in any gear will help hold the engine/clutch from rotating very much when loosening and tightening the lock nut.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,439
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From: 'Noke, VA
A slightly different take on this, everything "works fine" or "feels fine" until it doesn't any more. The clutch adjustment is to prevent problems. Because you didn't do it, you have no idea how it was adjusted (if it was adjusted) at 1000 miles. It may not need to be adjusted TODAY, but you will be going another 5000 miles before you think about it again. If it starts to slip at 8500 miles, it could be cooked before you get it home after noticing the problem. Your machine, your decision, but you will have a hard time getting a warranty repair on on a piece not properly maintained.
The presence or lack of lube is not important to the adjustment process but is vital even to the first start afterward. I have heard that the guys who maintain the police machines used in the low speed demos add extra primary oil due to the extra friction zone running used in the courses, so "enough to too much" is better than not enough. If you don't presently have a lift or other way to keep the machine vertical while adding or checking primary lube, perhaps a friend could hold it up while you add/check the oil. Unless they have changed the bolts since 2008, you will need a No. 27 Torx bit for the derby cover bolts. A 25 seems to fit, but it is a loose fit and will strip the sharp ends off the little teeth in the bolts. Follow the manual step by step and you should be fine. The proper torque for the lock nut on the clutch adjusting screw is less than you would intuitively use, get a torque wrench so you don't over tighten the lock nut. Putting the transmission in any gear will help hold the engine/clutch from rotating very much when loosening and tightening the lock nut.
The presence or lack of lube is not important to the adjustment process but is vital even to the first start afterward. I have heard that the guys who maintain the police machines used in the low speed demos add extra primary oil due to the extra friction zone running used in the courses, so "enough to too much" is better than not enough. If you don't presently have a lift or other way to keep the machine vertical while adding or checking primary lube, perhaps a friend could hold it up while you add/check the oil. Unless they have changed the bolts since 2008, you will need a No. 27 Torx bit for the derby cover bolts. A 25 seems to fit, but it is a loose fit and will strip the sharp ends off the little teeth in the bolts. Follow the manual step by step and you should be fine. The proper torque for the lock nut on the clutch adjusting screw is less than you would intuitively use, get a torque wrench so you don't over tighten the lock nut. Putting the transmission in any gear will help hold the engine/clutch from rotating very much when loosening and tightening the lock nut.
Overfilling the primary will cause the clutch to drag. I do parking lot rodeos, and I ride with several others that do too, and none of us do anything other than properly fill the primary.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 5
From: CT
Going to do my 5000 mile service on the 13 Street Glide this Friday evening. Had the 1000 mile done at my dealer and changed my oil at 2500. Plan to drain all three fluids on Friday and then wait on filling the primary until Saturday to adjust the clutch when cool. A few questions:
Is it necessary to adjust the clutch at this service? Seems to be just fine.
Does the primary need to be full of oil in order to adjust the clutch?
Don't have a jack yet, how important is it to have the bike level while adjusting the clutch?
Appreciate your feed back.
Is it necessary to adjust the clutch at this service? Seems to be just fine.
Does the primary need to be full of oil in order to adjust the clutch?
Don't have a jack yet, how important is it to have the bike level while adjusting the clutch?
Appreciate your feed back.