AGAIN with this stuff!?!?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,475
Likes: 3,001
From: Charleston, SC
I wish I still had the pics... don't.
I went through the same thing until finding out that the bearings in the wheel were not spaced completely center. Everything was shifted about a gnats *** to the left. Could not really detect it with factory wheel spacers. Once we put on some chrome spacer deals that had a taper you could look down the front and see one side was "in" and the other side as "out" just a little.
Was warping rotors about every 4 months...
I never had the bearings reset as I replaced the entire rim/tire (long story).
No more rotor issues.
This was our problem anyway. YMMV.
lp
I went through the same thing until finding out that the bearings in the wheel were not spaced completely center. Everything was shifted about a gnats *** to the left. Could not really detect it with factory wheel spacers. Once we put on some chrome spacer deals that had a taper you could look down the front and see one side was "in" and the other side as "out" just a little.
Was warping rotors about every 4 months...
I never had the bearings reset as I replaced the entire rim/tire (long story).
No more rotor issues.
This was our problem anyway. YMMV.
lp
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 104
From: Mississippi
I've got 34K on my bike. Replaced the original brake pads last week. Also replaced both wheel bearings last week. Took the wheel to the dealer and asked them to remove/replace the bearings instead of buying a $200-$300 puller. I purchased SKF b/c I don't trust Harley's bearings.
1.) I've never experienced any warped rotors. (knock on wood) I try not to brake too hard just as I do in my cages, but obviously stop as hard as I need to. Living in the foothills of the Appalachians my world ain't flat. I almost always will let go of the brake lever to see if the bike will stay still on it's own, but that is rarely the case so the brakes stay on. I'm not totally sold on this idea of why people get warped rotors. My experience says you can stop, leave the brakes on, and be OK.
2.) Someone in this thread mentioned dragging brakes. That you can hear it when spinning the wheel. I swear mine has done this since day one. It's often bothered me but I figured it was somehow the nature of the beast. Bike will roll quite a while with clutch in so never felt it was actual dragging, but some other noise. It's especially noticable when I kill the engine b4 coming to a stop. After getting 34K on brakes and still not being down to metal I'm still having trouble believing they spent a lifetime dragging as they would have died a lot sooner. Thought it might be wheel bearings but I just replaced them and the noise is still there. One thing I am ashamed to admit is that I did not take my calipers apart and lube the slide pins. Harley's directions in the shop manual didn't go into it so I was hesitant. I'll likely go back and do that some day soon.
3.) As far as things being backawards? Well, I guess it's possible it is a directional tire done backwards. Even if it is that shouldn't warp a rotor. Make it handle worse in rain, yes, but warp? My shop manual did say what side the valve stem should be on, so maybe that matters? (btw, mine is in the center). It ain't wheel bearings though. If he has ABS the ABS would HAVE to be on the left. If not the ABS light should be on and the speedo might not even work. If it is not ABS then both bearings are the same part # so you can't get them backwards.
Have you asked PM if they have an opinion on brake pads? Maybe some pad compounds get hotter and warp rotors?
1.) I've never experienced any warped rotors. (knock on wood) I try not to brake too hard just as I do in my cages, but obviously stop as hard as I need to. Living in the foothills of the Appalachians my world ain't flat. I almost always will let go of the brake lever to see if the bike will stay still on it's own, but that is rarely the case so the brakes stay on. I'm not totally sold on this idea of why people get warped rotors. My experience says you can stop, leave the brakes on, and be OK.
2.) Someone in this thread mentioned dragging brakes. That you can hear it when spinning the wheel. I swear mine has done this since day one. It's often bothered me but I figured it was somehow the nature of the beast. Bike will roll quite a while with clutch in so never felt it was actual dragging, but some other noise. It's especially noticable when I kill the engine b4 coming to a stop. After getting 34K on brakes and still not being down to metal I'm still having trouble believing they spent a lifetime dragging as they would have died a lot sooner. Thought it might be wheel bearings but I just replaced them and the noise is still there. One thing I am ashamed to admit is that I did not take my calipers apart and lube the slide pins. Harley's directions in the shop manual didn't go into it so I was hesitant. I'll likely go back and do that some day soon.
3.) As far as things being backawards? Well, I guess it's possible it is a directional tire done backwards. Even if it is that shouldn't warp a rotor. Make it handle worse in rain, yes, but warp? My shop manual did say what side the valve stem should be on, so maybe that matters? (btw, mine is in the center). It ain't wheel bearings though. If he has ABS the ABS would HAVE to be on the left. If not the ABS light should be on and the speedo might not even work. If it is not ABS then both bearings are the same part # so you can't get them backwards.
Have you asked PM if they have an opinion on brake pads? Maybe some pad compounds get hotter and warp rotors?
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: MD
So I just had a thought on this. It is important to torque all the rotor bolts the same and torque in the correct order. I wonder if that patchlock crap HD puts on the rotor bolts causes some of the bolts to have different torque in the real world? So the torque wrench would show 20ft/lbs, but bolt 1 would really be 16 and bolt 2 would be 20, etc. I'm not sure what the solution would be in that case. Maybe meticulous care when installing the bolts? Torque in steps? Torque, loosen them all, the retorque?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 34
From: Maryland
Also if I handed you a wheel with 2 bearings and the center spacer what side of the wheel would install the first bearing...This is critical as it sets up the wheel and how the rotors will interact with the calipers...So if someone mounts a tire backwards on the wheel and sticks it on the bike with the tire showing the correct direction of rotation on the bike...The wheel could actually be mounted backwards on the bike.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,036
Likes: 65
From: Earth
After reading all this, I am in the camp that the wheel is not set correctly with the bearings. Thus not being centered correctly.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 279
Likes: 11
From:
If they trued up your rotors , they had to have cut them on a lathe which would make them slightly thinner which is easier warp.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Silverdale, WA
The calipers have 4pistons, 2 on each side, and are designed to use a non floating rotor. I find it difficult to believe that a rotor, off center by a few or even several thousandths of an inch would make a difference. A floating rotor, since it isn't rigidly attached to the carrier isn't likely to be warped by improper torque. I would be inclined to put the straightened rotor on with fresh new pads, and check to see that the rotors and the calipers are aligned. If the calipers aren't square with the rotor you could apply weird forces to the rotor as you brake. I found that the left rotor and caliper were misaligned on my bike and I had to shim it to make it square to the rotor. I would also ask to see if there is runout on the face of the rim where the rotor attaches that could transfer to the rotor when tightened. I would also ask for a runout check when the rotors are installed so you can see what is going on if this occurs again, something to compare to.
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Thread Starter
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Supporter
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,685
Likes: 37
From: Hoboken, NJ
I'm bumping this thread to update everyone that after putting the re-trued PM rotors on a few months ago... they're warped again. Here's the best part- the new tech that put my new rear tire on last week took the bike for a test right and reported that he didn't feel any vibration upon using the front brake.
I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.
I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 186
Likes: 38
From: bendigo
heat
Do you hold the front brake after coming to a stop? I've read and found that those who hold the front brake tight after coming to a complete stop seem to experience more rotor warping than those who come to a complete stop, then release the front brake. Something about the rotors being held while hot between the brake pads. Just a thought. I've got after market rotors from HogPro on my bike and so far have had no signs of warping. I come to a complete stop, then release the front brake. Maybe worth a shot on your next set of rotors.