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AGAIN with this stuff!?!?

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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 06:22 PM
  #41  
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Two things I'm aware of with this issue. Somewhere there is, and I read about, a Harley TSB about this and the recommendation to swap the rotors to opposing sides to correct the vibration issue. The second is a known problem with front wheel bearings failing with little notice. First indication is the intermittent wheel vibration particularly while braking. Worth checking into.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by JY Kelly
"What's wrong with my bike?"

I hate that.

Any ideas fellas?
For one thing it is going to need new rotors
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 08:14 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by CGP93
If I'm stopped on a grade I use the "friction zone" on my clutch instead of my break. Seems to work for me..
Keeping a clutch in the friction zone is a good way to be needing a new clutch well before its time.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 11:06 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Rickr01
Two things I'm aware of with this issue. Somewhere there is, and I read about, a Harley TSB about this and the recommendation to swap the rotors to opposing sides to correct the vibration issue. The second is a known problem with front wheel bearings failing with little notice. First indication is the intermittent wheel vibration particularly while braking. Worth checking into.
My wheels are aftermarket performance machine heathens that came with the bike when I bought it with 2500 mi on it. They're not HD wheels.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 11:56 PM
  #45  
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You might try checking to make sure the wheel is centered in the calipers. It may use unequal length spacers like the pre-'09 bikes use. They could be reversed causing the rotor to be moving more than the floating rivets allow. That would cause them to flex every time you apply the brake. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 08:22 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by slickrick_58
You might try checking to make sure the wheel is centered in the calipers. It may use unequal length spacers like the pre-'09 bikes use. They could be reversed causing the rotor to be moving more than the floating rivets allow. That would cause them to flex every time you apply the brake. Good luck.
Thanks. It's GOTTA be something with the calipers/pads/wheel/bearings, right? If this was just a one-time thing, I'd just blame it on a shiatty pair of discs, but TWICE? With 2 different makers' products? Nah- it's something on the bike.

Terrific.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 12:06 PM
  #47  
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Ok. Just got back from the dealer and spoke with the wrencher who put the HD floaters on. His reasoning is as follows:

The Brembo calipers are designed for 16" & 18" wheels and stock HD rotors. When you increase the diameter of the wheel itself, you're asking the calipers to do work they weren't specifically designed for, hence the repeated warping. He said that he's had folks with issues like this before but not often.

I can kiiiinda see what he's saying but it also sounds like he's trying his best to protect the HD brand, no?

Anyway, I am bringing her in in the morning and he's going to throw the re-trued PM rotors on. Let's see how long THEY last...
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by JY Kelly
Ok. Just got back from the dealer and spoke with the wrencher who put the HD floaters on. His reasoning is as follows:

The Brembo calipers are designed for 16" & 18" wheels and stock HD rotors. When you increase the diameter of the wheel itself, you're asking the calipers to do work they weren't specifically designed for, hence the repeated warping..
Then why does HD put a 19" wheel on the CVO's? I have not heard of any problems with the Agitator wheel set up. I call BS on the "wrencher's" explaination.

And if my memory serves me right...... Most aftermarket wheels, tire, rotor set up's are lighter than most stock wheels meaning there is less rolling inertia for the brakes to deal with...... Not more....... Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 09:57 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Tinman265
Then why does HD put a 19" wheel on the CVO's? I have not heard of any problems with the Agitator wheel set up. I call BS on the "wrencher's" explaination.

And if my memory serves me right...... Most aftermarket wheels, tire, rotor set up's are lighter than most stock wheels meaning there is less rolling inertia for the brakes to deal with...... Not more....... Please correct me if I am wrong.
Yeah, I'm gonna call BS on that one too. If the bike weighs 700lbs before the wheel was put on then it weighs approximately the same with the larger wheel. The brakes are stopping the same load no matter what size the rotor and wheel are.
For that matter the larger OD rotor has more leverage and surface area to do the same job, so the loading would be less per square inch of rotor area. Tech's explanation would have to be backed up with better evidence for me not to call BS on it.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 10:05 PM
  #50  
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Reread the post and realized it does not say anything about the rotors being bigger, only the wheel.
However, the part of my earlier post stands true, the weight af the bike is basically the same as the original wheel set-up and therefore, the load on the brake is the same when trying to stop.
The one thing that would change if the wheel were so big as to change the overall OD of the tire, is that the larger OD tire will rotate slower at a given ground speed because the tire covers more ground in one revolution than a smaller tire.
That would still not be a problem or you wouldn't be able to stop your machine at high speed.
 
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