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AGAIN with this stuff!?!?

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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 11:20 AM
  #31  
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I wondered myself why this wouldn't affect cars as well. What I do know is no - I don't ride the brakes or over use the brakes (front or back) and yes - I have a left front warped rotor. No lay downs, impacts, etc. Bike is 10 months old with 10k on it, lots of brake pad left. It has one spot about 3 to 4 inches worth of outside diameter that is warped slightly but it makes a hell of a chatter if you need to use the front brakes with conviction.

I also know that my dealer confirmed that if the rotor is out of spec then it will be covered by warranty so I do have that going for me.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 12:07 PM
  #32  
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Whatever the cause is, it HAS to be fixed. AGAIN.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 01:40 PM
  #33  
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This may actually have nothing to do with how you operate the brake, which may surprise you given that every other response here is quick to blame your riding style.

You appear to have an aftermarket wheel, probably lower legs, but I'm guessing stock caliper(s)?

My buddy went to a 21" wheel, some no-name lowers and a single rotor setup. He warped every rotor almost immediately and just stopped using the front brakes.

It turned out that the caliper was not perfectly shimmed (and never would be) because of the lower-legs. What he needed was a true floating rotor setup, not the fake / cosmetic floating rotor that Harley sells, but a rotor that will actually move to center itself between the pads. The setup is expensive and my buddy isn't prepared to go there so I shimmed it the best I could, but as the pads wear down, if they don't wear perfectly even, the new rotor will warp.

I don't know that this is your issue, but it may be. Check your pads, are they wearing evenly; meaning is the pad itself the same thickness all the way across and is it the same thickness as it's opposing pad?

Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 01:49 PM
  #34  
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The thing is that this problem first arose with the PM Heathen rotors that came with the wheels. BOTH warped. They were removed, sent to PM, trued and sent back to me. In the interim, I had the current HD ones installed and five months later... same problem. Two different manufacturers, same problem. The issue HAS to be the calipers, no?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 03:17 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cass
i just took my FLHTK into the dealer for the 10000 mile service and mentioned a vibration in the front and suggested the rotors might be warped.....they checked and yup, warped. replaced under warranty. zero $$
brake pads were still well within specifications. interesting thought about holding the front brake....i do.....maybe i won't and see what happens.
I mentioned the same thing when I brought my bike in for the 5K service and was told that, yes, they were warped, but were still within "acceptable limits" that were determined by HD. It still stutters to a stop, and I find myself using the rear brake more often than I probably should. It's like they're saying "The rotors are not right, but they're not wrong enough, so deal with it".
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by geezer glide 56
I wonder if the wheel was set up correctly when it was installed.
The dealer I bought my '12 RGU from installed the HD Airstrike wheels during the 1000 mile service. In less than 1000 miles both front rotors were warped. I took it to aniother dealer since the selling dealer's service department had a bad tendency to overtorque everything and damage components. HD replaced both under warranty. I believe that the first dealer overtorqued or unevenly torqued the components when installing the new wheels. No problems since, and I've never had a history of having rotor problems.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 11:45 PM
  #37  
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To be honest, I'm becoming quite shocked at how many touring owners here are reporting the same issue.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 06:32 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by PghCycle24
The dealer I bought my '12 RGU from installed the HD Airstrike wheels during the 1000 mile service. In less than 1000 miles both front rotors were warped. I took it to aniother dealer since the selling dealer's service department had a bad tendency to overtorque everything and damage components. HD replaced both under warranty. I believe that the first dealer overtorqued or unevenly torqued the components when installing the new wheels. No problems since, and I've never had a history of having rotor problems.
It happens...There are a lot of shops that don't have qualified people working in them...You have to pay close attention when installing wheels on a bike...When pressing the bearings in it is very important which side of the wheel the first bearing is installed...As that sets the correct spacing for the bearings and the off set for the wheel setup...I would suspect the wheel isn't set up correctly.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Trial dog
I did a search for warped rotors to see what others had experienced and came across this thread. It makes sense about holding your front brakes keeping part of the rotor hot leading to warping although don't most people hold their car brakes at stops? I have one warped now, guess I will find out about coverage under warranty or not. Going to have to retrain myself not to hold the front brake at stops, not that I always do it but I know I do it some. Of course sometimes in the Ozarks you don't have much choice as your stopped on a grade.
If I'm stopped on a grade I use the "friction zone" on my clutch instead of my break. Seems to work for me..
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 05:56 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by The Q
Do you hold the front brake after coming to a stop? I've read and found that those who hold the front brake tight after coming to a complete stop seem to experience more rotor warping than those who come to a complete stop, then release the front brake. Something about the rotors being held while hot between the brake pads. Just a thought. I've got after market rotors from HogPro on my bike and so far have had no signs of warping. I come to a complete stop, then release the front brake. Maybe worth a shot on your next set of rotors.
After making a hard stop with any vehicle, after stopped let it roll to get the hot pads off the disk. Release the brakes if you can. If I have to hold the breaks I will let it roll several times to allow it to cool and not warp the rotors.
 
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