When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Couple if ways to set the seal. Buy the tool, many of them split in half. Don't have to slide from top. I have cut a seal spacer washer in half and sanded away sharp corners. Have cut the right size PVC pipe in half. Forget the exact size, will look in shop. Use half washer and pipe to set seal by gently going around seal and tapping with dead blow hammer. Just be careful not to scratch lower leg. Patience is a virtue. Can replace both seals in a couple hours including tire, fender removal and drain and refill. Not hard, will take a little longer the first time.
Couple if ways to set the seal. Buy the tool, many of them split in half. Don't have to slide from top. I have cut a seal spacer washer in half and sanded away sharp corners. Have cut the right size PVC pipe in half. Forget the exact size, will look in shop. Use half washer and pipe to set seal by gently going around seal and tapping with dead blow hammer. Just be careful not to scratch lower leg. Patience is a virtue. Can replace both seals in a couple hours including tire, fender removal and drain and refill. Not hard, will take a little longer the first time.
Thanks for the info Spur. I have another dumb question. How do you get to the top of the lower part of the fork assembly? The cow bells cover that. Do the bells come off without taking the fork apart? Thanks again for your help.
I've done it many times from the bottom, its supper easy on forks without a lower bushing and still possible on ones that due with a split seal driver. I have taken it a step further and fill the slider with oil before installng it on thr tube. To do this you coat the bolt on the bottom and the hole in the slider with lots of grease, put the socket and impact on - then fill the tube, slide it on and run the bolt on with the impact. If all goes well it goes together and you never touch the top cap or pull the forks making it easy to beat flat rate, if it doesn't then you have a mess to clean up and start again.
What I don't see is how this is possible on forks with a shrouded slider like touring models do.
I did the racetech kit and chrome lowers on my streetglide. I suppose you could do it all from the bottom.... but I really don't see why, it is so simple to pull the tubes and do it by the book. Remove the top cap and loosen the pinch bolt and the whole thing is off in minutes.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.