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Don't you have to pull the comp to install the Baker?
Yep, you do have to take off the comp sprocket. The L bracket and shoe will not slide under the chain w/o it removed...It was not really a big deal.... I got to look it over and everything seemed fine, wear wise. Then I was able to make sure the nut was torqued properly w/ red loc-tight. The dealer put in a new IPB about 500 miles after I put in the Hayden. (The OEM tensioner probably did a job on the IPB) Even with the Hayden I was still getting some whirring noise and I just didn't like it, so I figured F%-it just put in the Baker and be done with it.....no whirring. The Instructions say to check it every 5K. I figure I'll take a look once at the end of every season as long as it sounds and feels right...doesn't take all that long to pop off the primary cover.
OP here with up-date.
I called Kathy at Hayden and she is going to send me a new shoe. I'm not sure this will fix it permanently, but I think it's nice Hayden is trying to help me out.
She wanted us to make sure the chain don't have a defect in it that could cut in to the shoe, My friend and I ran our fingers all around the chain and could not feel any thing out of the normal. I'm going on 2 rides this weekend so I put the cover back on. Kathy said I should be fine to drive it until I get the new shoe.
I cant help but think the newer springs are to stiff, but I'm not a professional on this. Kathy said she will come on here tonight and look at the pic I put up to see what she thinks of this. I do like the idea of the Hayden moving under spring pressure to keep the chain from slapping, I just feel the springs could be a bit softer.
Not going to have a pissing contest on which adjuster to use. I know which one I have in my bike and it is a manual adjuster and it does not just fall right in. You do have to remove the comp. sprocket to install and it is one of the first ones made I bought it in Daytona spring rally in 2012 never had to adjust it science I installed it and is dead quit at start up and at 227deg oil temps. I do know the SE manual is a good piece but does make noise I done got that 149.00 education and it is to noisy for me. It is a little more money than the other ones but in my op. I would pay twice that much before I would buy the other ones.
From: South Carolina-First to secede and hopefully the next.
Gotta give kudos to Hayden for stepping up, but it seems to me a new shoe isn't a solution. In a few thousand miles you're gonna be back at square 1.
Somethings amiss with your tensioner. Are they gonna send a new spring as well?
OP here with up-date.
I called Kathy at Hayden and she is going to send me a new shoe. I'm not sure this will fix it permanently, but I think it's nice Hayden is trying to help me out.
She wanted us to make sure the chain don't have a defect in it that could cut in to the shoe, My friend and I ran our fingers all around the chain and could not feel any thing out of the normal. I'm going on 2 rides this weekend so I put the cover back on. Kathy said I should be fine to drive it until I get the new shoe.
I cant help but think the newer springs are to stiff, but I'm not a professional on this. Kathy said she will come on here tonight and look at the pic I put up to see what she thinks of this. I do like the idea of the Hayden moving under spring pressure to keep the chain from slapping, I just feel the springs could be a bit softer.
In your first post you state the chain was very tight after the Hayden install. Did your chain have any up and down movement? Did you notice any metal particles in the oil after draining it? Did you run it with the cover off to see if the shoe was moving up and down? I can't help thinking that with the chain tight enough to cut that deep with less then 3000 miles, how can it not put undue stress on all components involved? I'm so glad I took Expat1's advise and modified the Hayden before it destroyed my bearings.
This goes to show that all things mechanical do and can have different specs. Some bikes have tight chains, some don't after the Hayden install. Some bikes puke oil out of the breather bolts, others don't. Some stock compensators last for 1000,s of miles, other come apart or fail with 10,000 or less miles.
I'm sure all the other automobile and bike forums probably have the same thing going on and it will continue like this until we are all see the big guy upstairs or downstairs depending on our life style.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by HDV-GLIDE
This goes to show that all things mechanical do and can have different specs. Some bikes have tight chains, some don't after the Hayden install. Some bikes puke oil out of the breather bolts, others don't. Some stock compensators last for 1000,s of miles, other come apart or fail with 10,000 or less miles.
I'm sure all the other automobile and bike forums probably have the same thing going on and it will continue like this until we are all see the big guy upstairs or downstairs depending on our life style.
My famous words of the day.........
Company is more fun downstairs, I know cause I've been there
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by fathog
In your first post you state the chain was very tight after the Hayden install. Did your chain have any up and down movement? Did you notice any metal particles in the oil after draining it? Did you run it with the cover off to see if the shoe was moving up and down? I can't help thinking that with the chain tight enough to cut that deep with less then 3000 miles, how can it not put undue stress on all components involved? I'm so glad I took Expat1's advise and modified the Hayden before it destroyed my bearings.
We shouldn't be afraid to use the Hayden when its springs are a bit tight, but a few more unnecessary debris generated by rapid abrasion of the shoe will statistically be carried by the oil flow and arrive on the race of the IPB.
This is the reason why I polished the machined angles of my tensioner where the shoe rubs when traveling up and down.
On a production line, 1 hour of slow tumbling polishing with dry sawdust and triangular abrasive stones would do a nice job at practically no additional cost like it was done in the automobile industry when we had one.
In your first post you state the chain was very tight after the Hayden install. Did your chain have any up and down movement? Did you notice any metal particles in the oil after draining it? Did you run it with the cover off to see if the shoe was moving up and down? I can't help thinking that with the chain tight enough to cut that deep with less then 3000 miles, how can it not put undue stress on all components involved? I'm so glad I took Expat1's advise and modified the Hayden before it destroyed my bearings.
Yes it had a little up and down movement about 3'16" now it's about 3/8".
I didn't see any metal particles in the oil, the drain plug had a little but to me that's normal. I did not start the bike up but I pushed up and down on the top chain and that made the Hayden move like it should. The top of the chain is still way to tight even with all this wear on the shoe.
Kathy from Hayden said she will come on here and look at the pic and comment on it. When I get the new shoe she is sending me I would like to do something like 'Expat1' did, I would like to soften up the 2 springs somehow. I will try to Search out his Thread. I hope it's something that only needs common tools.
Yes it had a little up and down movement about 3'16" now it's about 3/8".
I didn't see any metal particles in the oil, the drain plug had a little but to me that's normal. I did not start the bike up but I pushed up and down on the top chain and that made the Hayden move like it should. The top of the chain is still way to tight even with all this wear on the shoe.
Kathy from Hayden said she will come on here and look at the pic and comment on it. When I get the new shoe she is sending me I would like to do something like 'Expat1' did, I would like to soften up the 2 springs somehow. I will try to Search out his Thread. I hope it's something that only needs common tools.
I believe he eliminated the inner spring and may have shortened the outside spring to provide complete compression. I opted for the softer springs and took off approx. 1 coil off each spring which allowed the shoe to completely compress. I also block sanded the bottom of the shoe to give me a bit more travel. After my mods the Hayden provides good tension and it's easier to find neutral. I'm very happy with the results. Try https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-pictures.html for more.
Last edited by fathog; Jul 11, 2013 at 02:16 PM.
Reason: correction
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