clutch adjustment
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Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 43
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clutch adjustment
Hey, I just adjusted my clutch for the first time. I followed the instructions. loosen cable, jam nut, adjuster in til slight drag then back out 3/4 turn then lock down, readjust cable. Everything is fine, but it don't engage til the lever is almost out. Before it was right in the sweet spot right in the middle. how do I get it back there? Thanks!
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 2,858
From: Oklahoma
If you are absolutely confident in the clutch hub adjustment, you can adjust the friction point with the cable adjustment. The lever free play is more of a minimum than a solid goal. As the friction point is adjusted so the lever is closer to the grip, the free play will get bigger, ensuring there will be no continuous pressure on the release mechanism. If you go too far in adjusting the friction point close to the grip, you may get clutch drag with the lever fully against the grip making the clank when going into gear even louder and neutral hard to find.
A caution about the clutch hub adjustment. For several years I was mistaking some drag in the threads (burred threads) for the plunger contact point. Turning the allen adjuster in with a wrench the first time smooths the threads and makes finding the actual contact point more accurate. Then use a torque wrench to set the lock nut, you probably would set it tighter than spec without the torque wrench. Having the transmission in gear helps minimize (not prevent) clutch rotation while loosening and re-tightening the lock nut.
A caution about the clutch hub adjustment. For several years I was mistaking some drag in the threads (burred threads) for the plunger contact point. Turning the allen adjuster in with a wrench the first time smooths the threads and makes finding the actual contact point more accurate. Then use a torque wrench to set the lock nut, you probably would set it tighter than spec without the torque wrench. Having the transmission in gear helps minimize (not prevent) clutch rotation while loosening and re-tightening the lock nut.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 5
From: CT
Hey, I just adjusted my clutch for the first time. I followed the instructions. loosen cable, jam nut, adjuster in til slight drag then back out 3/4 turn then lock down, readjust cable. Everything is fine, but it don't engage til the lever is almost out. Before it was right in the sweet spot right in the middle. how do I get it back there? Thanks!
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 887
Likes: 1
From: Spring, Texas
Follow the same steps but only back it out a half a turn. Adjust your cable then check to see if it is where you want it.
If not, go back and try 3/8 turn or even 1/4 turn untill you find the "sweet spot " you are looking for.
I just went thru this with a clutch upgrade. I installed the SE Race clutch and Barnett Extra Disk carbon fiber clutch pack.
I adjusted it as per the manual like I always do. But the clutch would "creep", never fully disengage and I could not get it in neutral unless I shut the bike off.
I found out by calling Barnett that they recommend 1/4 to 3/8 turn back off on the adjuster.
The extra disk clutch is a little thicker than the OEM clutch pack and if I back it off 3/4 it will not disengage.
I also adjusted my Wifes Dyna the same way I recommended to you. She has small hands and needed the clutch friction zone "Sweet Spot" to be closer to the grip and the free play adjusted so that the lever is closer to the grip in the released position.
I did this by backing the bolt off almost one full turn and adjusted free play so the lever starts closer to the grip for her.
You can put the "sweet spot" wherever you want or need it by simply backing off the adjuster bolt more or less.
Backing off less will make the clutch engage farther away from the grip and more will put it closer to the grip where you would have to pull the lever more to get in the zone.
Hope this helps.
If not, go back and try 3/8 turn or even 1/4 turn untill you find the "sweet spot " you are looking for.
I just went thru this with a clutch upgrade. I installed the SE Race clutch and Barnett Extra Disk carbon fiber clutch pack.
I adjusted it as per the manual like I always do. But the clutch would "creep", never fully disengage and I could not get it in neutral unless I shut the bike off.
I found out by calling Barnett that they recommend 1/4 to 3/8 turn back off on the adjuster.
The extra disk clutch is a little thicker than the OEM clutch pack and if I back it off 3/4 it will not disengage.
I also adjusted my Wifes Dyna the same way I recommended to you. She has small hands and needed the clutch friction zone "Sweet Spot" to be closer to the grip and the free play adjusted so that the lever is closer to the grip in the released position.
I did this by backing the bolt off almost one full turn and adjusted free play so the lever starts closer to the grip for her.
You can put the "sweet spot" wherever you want or need it by simply backing off the adjuster bolt more or less.
Backing off less will make the clutch engage farther away from the grip and more will put it closer to the grip where you would have to pull the lever more to get in the zone.
Hope this helps.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 5
From: CT
Follow the same steps but only back it out a half a turn. Adjust your cable then check to see if it is where you want it.
If not, go back and try 3/8 turn or even 1/4 turn untill you find the "sweet spot " you are looking for.
I just went thru this with a clutch upgrade. I installed the SE Race clutch and Barnett Extra Disk carbon fiber clutch pack.
I adjusted it as per the manual like I always do. But the clutch would "creep", never fully disengage and I could not get it in neutral unless I shut the bike off.
I found out by calling Barnett that they recommend 1/4 to 3/8 turn back off on the adjuster.
The extra disk clutch is a little thicker than the OEM clutch pack and if I back it off 3/4 it will not disengage.
I also adjusted my Wifes Dyna the same way I recommended to you. She has small hands and needed the clutch friction zone "Sweet Spot" to be closer to the grip and the free play adjusted so that the lever is closer to the grip in the released position.
I did this by backing the bolt off almost one full turn and adjusted free play so the lever starts closer to the grip for her.
You can put the "sweet spot" wherever you want or need it by simply backing off the adjuster bolt more or less.
Backing off less will make the clutch engage farther away from the grip and more will put it closer to the grip where you would have to pull the lever more to get in the zone.
Hope this helps.
If not, go back and try 3/8 turn or even 1/4 turn untill you find the "sweet spot " you are looking for.
I just went thru this with a clutch upgrade. I installed the SE Race clutch and Barnett Extra Disk carbon fiber clutch pack.
I adjusted it as per the manual like I always do. But the clutch would "creep", never fully disengage and I could not get it in neutral unless I shut the bike off.
I found out by calling Barnett that they recommend 1/4 to 3/8 turn back off on the adjuster.
The extra disk clutch is a little thicker than the OEM clutch pack and if I back it off 3/4 it will not disengage.
I also adjusted my Wifes Dyna the same way I recommended to you. She has small hands and needed the clutch friction zone "Sweet Spot" to be closer to the grip and the free play adjusted so that the lever is closer to the grip in the released position.
I did this by backing the bolt off almost one full turn and adjusted free play so the lever starts closer to the grip for her.
You can put the "sweet spot" wherever you want or need it by simply backing off the adjuster bolt more or less.
Backing off less will make the clutch engage farther away from the grip and more will put it closer to the grip where you would have to pull the lever more to get in the zone.
Hope this helps.
I can't agree with the 3/8,1/4 turn unless your spec is different than mine. 1/2-1 turn cold (2012 touring) allows for the proper adjustment of the adjustment at the clutch pack. Further adjustment can be made by adding a not more slack to the cable adjust. YMMV but I would stick to the specifications in the manual.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 2,858
From: Oklahoma
I can't agree with the 3/8,1/4 turn unless your spec is different than mine. 1/2-1 turn cold (2012 touring) allows for the proper adjustment of the adjustment at the clutch pack. Further adjustment can be made by adding a not more slack to the cable adjust. YMMV but I would stick to the specifications in the manual.
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 253
Likes: 1
From: S E Michigan
I would like to know more about this adjustment between the stock clutch and the SE 9 disc clutch. I agree with BigGelvis that the SE clutch pack is thicker than the stock. When I installed it, the instructions had me remove a couple of spacer rings inside, otherwise the whole assembly would not go together. Since I have upgraded to the SE clutch no adjustment within the factory spec range has allowed me to find neutral unless I shut the motor off. I did not have trouble before with the stock clutch. I think I will readjust per BigGelvis's suggestion and see how that works.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 5
From: CT
He has an AFTER MARKET clutch and is wise to adjust it as its manufacturer recommends. However, it is just my opinion that adjusting the friction zone with the clutch pack setting is the hard way to do it, when the cable adjustment requires no cover removal, again provided the clutch pack adjustment is correct.
