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This is a fundamental misunderstanding of how a fuel injected engine works. My closed-loop cruise area is at around 14.45 AFR (.981 Lambda), and it runs cool. That's because the VEs are corrected to produce that target AFR. The ECM will not do that on its own; the adaptive fueling can only compensate around 5% from the base map, and the base map is way lean. This is why it's so important to - via a dyno or street tuning - get the VE tables right. No inline resistor is going to do that.
Exhausts flowed just fine before catalytic converters were introduced, so don't think that you're hurting flow by removing the converter. Of course, you're not gaining much either, as the converter offers no restriction at stock or Stage 1 power levels.
Now with that said, you're not doing yourself any favors removing the converter from a stock pipe. By doing so, you're removing the media that keeps the exhaust flow somewhat separated from the two O2 sensors. Yes, you'll remove the heat from the converter, but your bike will never run right due to the commingling of the exhaust from the two cylinders in the huge open plenum you've just created.
There are no shortcuts, no matter how much anyone wishes there were.
If a person guts the cat,the o2 sensors are now reading the exhaust as being rich and therefore the ecm will in turn lean the fuel mixture.Why couldn't you just remove the o2 sensors from the pipe,not unplug them,just tuck them out of the way somewhere and plug the empty holes in the pipe.I would think in doing this the stock ecm would run the mixture as rich as it's able because the o2 sensors wouldn't be detecting anthing but clean air-?
ok so I gutted my head pipe....does not matter how, not gonna start that argument, but I got nice clean head pipe now on my 2011 sg 103. bike has Rinehart slip ons and that's it! have made a few short jaunts around town up to about 50 miles, great sound, but no diff in heat. so was able to get out for a few hundred mile ride, heat is worse than stock. so I figured maybe readjusting the pia heat shields, so I did and another 150 mile ride, still seems like excessive heat, what gives?? bike runs great, a slight de cell pop every now n then, over all happy just have a lot more heat than before. any one have any thoughts on what to do??
thanks
scottibe
I don't see how it can be hotter since you gutted the oven out of it. If it is still to hot for your liking, try wrapping some header tape over it, it will all be hidden and will cool the exterior down some. Thats my plan if I dont like mine. Good luck man, stay safe.
the xieds did the trick for me. tried the factory download from dealer on last bike...bike did run better, but the download takes it back to the e.p.a. mandated super lean ratio and does little for heat. you can find a set of used xieds for under a hundred bucks in the classifieds--the sellers say they worked fine but now they are doing cams, etc. and need more than the basic plug and play.
this time i gutted the cat and left the mufflers stock. the sound turned out pretty nice. added the xieds and every thing is hunky-dorey(to use a technical term).
Since the 02 sensors are in FRONT of the cat, how would removing it downstream cause "commingling"?
The converter, due to its honeycomb design, helps keep the gasses separated during vacuum (like when you jump off the throttle) or low-throttle riding.
Originally Posted by ftworthcowboy
My Electra Glide is an 09 and has the plenum but came from the factory with no cat. This is stated in the owners manual, only bikes that are California Compliant or those for International sale. So my exhausts are 'comingling' in the plenum from the factory.
Your O2 sensors are inches from the exhaust ports on the primary pipes. 2010 and up pipes are different.
Originally Posted by lh4x4
I run 12.8:1 on three TC96's, a 103 and a 110. They all run much stronger and cooler than stock by a good margin.
Why on earth would you do that? The beauty of fuel injection is that you don't need to run a single AFR throughout the entire range, as your motor has different fueling needs at cruise than it does at WOT.
Originally Posted by lh4x4
12.8:1 is the absolute best AFR for an internal combustion engine. Wot is good to 11:1. 12.8:1 has been tested and ran in vehicles for almost a 100 years to ignite the easiest and burn more complete. End of story.
Except for the thousands of tuners who disagree with that. 12.8:1 was fantastic when all you had was a carb, not so any more. WOT and the areas around can go anywhere from the low 12s to low 13s assuming the VEs are corrected for it. Running that rich in cruise range is silly, as you don't need maximum power at 2750rpm and low-load.
Originally Posted by lh4x4
PS It is total myth that removing the cat will cause cross talk with the 02 sensors. It is a theory that in real life does not happen even though it is talked about on the HD internet forums. Unless one of the injectors is dirty or faulty there will not be a significant difference in their readings anyway. With or without the cat present in the collector tube ( not the head tube) there is no change in the flow. It would be the same odds for the 02's to cross talk with the cat and they do not.
Perhaps then you can take that up with Doc, Jamie, or any number of other tuners who have documented and posted dyno charts of these pipes doing exactly that. All it takes is a basic understanding of how exhausts work to see that having two sensors that are supposed to read two different cylinders in the same place is a bad idea. Harley really boned this up in 2010.
Originally Posted by Sprinter7x
If a person guts the cat,the o2 sensors are now reading the exhaust as being rich and therefore the ecm will in turn lean the fuel mixture.Why couldn't you just remove the o2 sensors from the pipe,not unplug them,just tuck them out of the way somewhere and plug the empty holes in the pipe.I would think in doing this the stock ecm would run the mixture as rich as it's able because the o2 sensors wouldn't be detecting anthing but clean air-?
Is that really how you want to run your $20,000 + motorcycle? Seems like a $500 tuner and having it run right would be a better solution.
If a person guts the cat,the o2 sensors are now reading the exhaust as being rich and therefore the ecm will in turn lean the fuel mixture.Why couldn't you just remove the o2 sensors from the pipe,not unplug them,just tuck them out of the way somewhere and plug the empty holes in the pipe.I would think in doing this the stock ecm would run the mixture as rich as it's able because the o2 sensors wouldn't be detecting anthing but clean air-?
you're 02 sensors are reading lean due to reversion( fresh air entering exhaust) and will richen up the afm. that's why if you are fieds you need to lean them out some. this is what cause's popping in the exhaust when slowing down.
With 96-103" of air cooled V-twin right between your legs, your gonna have some heat no matter what!
The guys that expect no heat are probably the same guys that expect a completely still bubble of air behind the fairing/windshield. If you want cool still air, get in a cage.
hey thanks guys for all the input, I didn't mean to start a great debate!! I know there is going to be heat, just like your hair is going to blow! however my concern was that now after de cat heat is worse, now having read every ones response I now have a better understanding of things, and have decided to try some xieds, sounds like a lot of good feedback with these. thanks again to all
With stock hearder and mufflers my 2011 103 ran 445 degrees at the cat area of the header and the bike ran great. With slip on's the area ran 445 degrees and the bike ran great. With a de-catted head pipe the area ran 275 degrees and the bike still runs great. If it wasn't for the heat, I would not have de-catted but there is no way that area will run hotter without the cat. De-catting the pipe should change nothing but the heat.
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