loud Tick, NOT lifters.....What else?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Clarksburg, PA
It seemed fine when I installed it, but I kind of rushed it so I can't be totally sure.
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Monkyman, try this.. Completely warm it up with a run and of course ticking with it stopped. Put it in gear sitting still with it at idle and let the clutch out just enough to tug forward yet not drop rpm, does it go completely away? If so, I am pretty sure what it is. I think (hopefully) I figured mine out finally, and it will go away when I do above. Does yours?
Ripsaw, I tried what you said to, and it made the noise no matter how slow I let the clutch out, with or without giving it gas.
Hopefully he can find it and either repair it or let me know what's going on. I will report back with the diagnosis and then whether it was the cure.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to give me suggestions. I won't keep you in suspense when I find out.
By the way, my wife followed me to the shop in my truck and was wondering why my bike sounded so much louder than before. She liked it. Guess I forgot to tell her I put the true duals on, heh, tried to sneak that one under the fence.
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Yesturday morning the shop owner called and said he heard the noise, it was coming from the rear cylinder. Not the rocker box, but in the actual cylinder. Said he needed to pull the head because he believed the rear cylinder had overheated. I got down there just as they were pulling the head off and the cylinder was blue. I don't know what the actual sound was, he mentioned it was the piston/rings. He plugged into my computer and found the map the dealer had installed was way to lean. Checked crank runout and said it was almost perfect. So there is a little good news. Long story short, the bike has an extended warrantee, he has ordered a 103 kit, new SE cams, better oil pump, the whole 9 yards. He would have ended up replacing the lifters and pushrods, but I have already done that. Should get it back next week in time for the rally i'm going to. And he said I should only have to pay a few hundred bucks, but he is going to try to get the warrantee company to pay for everything.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
i use this one.. works just as well as any other.. and I found my tick to be the exhaust port gasket at the front cylinder. When it heated up (took about 5 minutes from a cold start) it went to ticking and drove me absolutely fricking nutz finding it.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: In my head
If the cylinder was getting hot and it was phucked up then your oil is gonna get spent.
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I had changed the oil less than 3 weeks ago, Mobile 1 v-twin synthetic. He suggested I switch back to dino oil. Of course everyone has their opinions on what type of oil is the best.
He is an engine builder and loves to "perk up" stock engines. A buddy of mine warned me: "you can go in there with a flat tire, but your coming out with a new engine"
He is an engine builder and loves to "perk up" stock engines. A buddy of mine warned me: "you can go in there with a flat tire, but your coming out with a new engine"
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From: Honah Lee
Another thing I just noticed is the front piston does not look stock? Did the rear have any seizure marks. I went thru a 4 cylinder GM motor not too long ago that was overheated and driven till it stopped. It sounded fine when started cold but within 5 minutes was tapping like crazy. One piston had seized and galled and when it got hot, got tight and made the pin and connecting rod tap when it reversed.
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Another thing I just noticed is the front piston does not look stock? Did the rear have any seizure marks. I went thru a 4 cylinder GM motor not too long ago that was overheated and driven till it stopped. It sounded fine when started cold but within 5 minutes was tapping like crazy. One piston had seized and galled and when it got hot, got tight and made the pin and connecting rod tap when it reversed.