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$ 413.00 Just for brakes

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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 04:07 PM
  #11  
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BREAD
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Default RE: $ 413.00 Just for brakes

BG Weasel is right on the money,floating rotors are not meant toseparate.

Some details:

Rotor Attachment Methods Why float? The purpose for not using fixed or one-piece rotors is pretty simple. First, the floating rotor allows for better pad knockback (where the rotor ā€œknocks backā€ the pad such that there is no contact and reducing rolling drag). Second, it will accommodate for a small misalignment of rotor to caliper / pad. This will allow for full pad contact even when parts are not perfectly aligned. Imagine a fixed rotor with a misaligned caliper – the actual contact (and pad/rotor wear) would only be a portion of what is available. As you might think, the full-floating allows for more of the above benefits over the semi-floating design.
Aside from rear rotors with no carrier that bolt directly to the rear wheel, there are a couple different methods to attach the rotor carrier that attaches directly to the wheel, and the rotor disc that the pads contact.
[ul][*]Semi-floating Rotors: Most OE rotors, even on Italian bikes, are a semi-float design. That is, there is no direct attachment between the disc and the carrier, but they do not move freely of each other without moderate force. If you have semi-float rotors, you can move the disc independently of the carrier by pushing and pulling the disc perpendicular to the carrier. The actual attachment is a rivet-style with a spring sandwiched between the rivet surface and the rotor components on each side. The springs are always in contact with the rotor components creating the ā€˜semi-float’ effect.[*]Full-floating Rotors: Most aftermarket rotors, are full-floating. Like the semi-floating rotors, the carrier and disc are separate parts, but that attachment mechanism between the two are different. Where the semi-float uses a rivet design, the fill floating design uses a ā€œbuttonā€ without any spring force applied to the rotor components. While the button is a mechanical attachment, the back side is secured by a snap ring, e-clip, or stacked spring that can be removed. The degree of free float is in the range of 0.5-1.0mm. These are completely free float and you can move them with no effort with your fingers.[*]Comparisons: So why not just use full-floating rotors on everything if they are better? They are better for pure performance, but there is a trade-off for the benefits. The main disadvantage to the full-floating design is the noise factor. First, they rattle…all the time…high speed, low speed, they always rattle. Second, they are much more likely to make noise (probably low speed, low frequency howl or groan noise) because the mechanical attachment has been ā€˜loosened’. I guarantee that while you and I may be willing to live with the noise given a performance benefit, the OE will not. They do not want the complaints and warranty costs associated with noisy pads. [/ul]
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: $ 413.00 Just for brakes

It may seem like alot of cash but if the time comes when you really need them,it'll be the best $413 you ever spent.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 07:52 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: $ 413.00 Just for brakes

ORIGINAL: harleybob

3 floating rotors and 3 sets of Lyndall brake pads. I will never be able to afford to get married if this continues. But that ok. LOL.
Who needs marriage when you have this?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 08:02 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: $ 413.00 Just for brakes

ORIGINAL: BREAD

[ul][*]Full-floating Rotors: Most aftermarket rotors, are full-floating. Like the semi-floating rotors, the carrier and disc are separate parts, but that attachment mechanism between the two are different. Where the semi-float uses a rivet design, the fill floating design uses a ā€œbuttonā€ without any spring force applied to the rotor components. While the button is a mechanical attachment, the back side is secured by a snap ring, e-clip, or stacked spring that can be removed. The degree of free float is in the range of 0.5-1.0mm. These are completely free float and you can move them with no effort with your fingers. [/ul]
I had full-floaters (EBC) on my RK and put 106k miles on them. These never caused any noise problems at all, and I never heard a rattle from them. FWIW, I also used EBC Kevlar pads and they lasted the entire period of ownership for that bike and had 1/3 pad surface remaining. Excellent performance, little dust, and no noise (except a slight hiss when applying]). May buy some of these before my stock HD pads wear out, as I'm tired of the dust already.

Am using HD floaters with no issues yet.





 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 08:03 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: $ 413.00 Just for brakes

ORIGINAL: harleybob

3 floating rotors and 3 sets of Lyndall brake pads. I will never be able to afford to get married if this continues. But that ok. LOL.
Did you notice any performance change on the rear? I've never used floaters on the rear, as since the rear provides so little breaking power I haven't felt the need.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 10:56 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: $ 413.00 Just for brakes

Last visit to the dealer the mechanic did a $40 "trick" to get the whole front brake pull back on the lever (mine was not engaging until about 3/4 the way in). Anyhow -- when I got new tires last the pull went back to about 5/8. Anyone know what that trick is and how to do it? He mentioned something about cleaning the caliper pistons -- but I'm sure what the process is. It only took about 15 minutes for him to do the service.

 
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 11:02 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: $ 413.00 Just for brakes

$413 to get married? I think you need to check around, someone is getting ripped off!

I like my floaters in the front, except today I noticed a squeek from the front that goes away with the slightest pull of the front brakes. I'll give it a look tomorrow.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 12:30 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: $ 413.00 Just for brakes

married versus a Harley? you can ride a Harley anytime you want to.
Jugs are shinier but not as fun to polish.


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