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I disagree. The auto tuning only addresses the VE tables via the stock O2 sensors (or widebands if you pay extra). Yes, there's some timing functionality, but not many people go that deep.
Anyway, a dyno tune tunes the bike to conditions that day, period. There's some benefit in having multiple tunes and/or doing periodic VE checks as the bike ages. You can still save and use the tune you paid for, and use the work done to adapt a map to various conditions.
If you want to go as far as creating different tunes for different conditions, again, why would you pay for a dynotune first? Create your various maps using the autotune. I still stand by my original recommendation to either dynotune or autotune, not both. And if you decide to do both, it's no harm other than the money you just wasted on the dynotune.
I don't have a PV although I do have a PCV w/AutoTune. I'm perfectly happy with my bikes performance after dialing-in my map with the Autotune.
But now in your case, if you had the bike tuned by Jamie, running the autotune seems like a contradiction to me...
Consider this. If you change the map based on the autotune values, then the money you spent having it dyno tuned was a complete waste. You could have just as easily ran the autotune a few times with your starting point being the canned map and came up with the same final result.
Seems to me that one should select and invest in one or the other, dynotune or autotune. Doing both is a waste of time and money.
I had the 107 kit installed by Fuel Moto in July at their shop. Jamie did the dyno tune. What I was wondering is there any benefit to me running auto tune now after riding the bike for a month. The bike runs great, but I'm always looking for better!
If you want to go as far as creating different tunes for different conditions, again, why would you pay for a dynotune first? Create your various maps using the autotune. I still stand by my original recommendation to either dynotune or autotune, not both. And if you decide to do both, it's no harm other than the money you just wasted on the dynotune.
The dyno tune (assuming a competent operator) gets your IAC steps, Lambda table, timing, and all the other crap optimized to your bike. Doing those things with a TTS or PV is tedious, time-consuming, and above the skill level of most home tuners.
The autotune (which isn't really "auto tune") only effects the VE tables.
You have a good point. On my 2 Sportys I had, 1 air kit $150, 2 jets $7, install my self, done. My newer Harleys with FI have some great advantages, but way more pricey to do a stage-1.
I agree with this to an extent. Keep in mind that that any tuning device that writes a map to an ECM will over time develop "learned" values via the AFVs. Sometimes those are for the best, but as I've found out on a couple of different bikes, sometimes it's not so you have to go in and reset those AFVs.
Originally Posted by '05Train
I disagree. The auto tuning only addresses the VE tables via the stock O2 sensors (or widebands if you pay extra). Yes, there's some timing functionality, but not many people go that deep.
Anyway, a dyno tune tunes the bike to conditions that day, period. There's some benefit in having multiple tunes and/or doing periodic VE checks as the bike ages. You can still save and use the tune you paid for, and use the work done to adapt a map to various conditions.
I agree with this to an extent. Keep in mind that that any tuning device that writes a map to an ECM will over time develop "learned" values via the AFVs. Sometimes those are for the best, but as I've found out on a couple of different bikes, sometimes it's not so you have to go in and reset those AFVs.
True, but the AFVs can only change the VEs 5% or less.
good info but where did you get it from. I have seen claims of 15% and a fixed number of cells.
Well, in closed loop the amount/percentage (up to 5% was always my understanding of the ECM's abilities) of "adaptation" is determined by the range of the narrow band 02 sensor's measurement and can be applied to all cells that are considered closed loop cells. Doesn't mean it will, just that it can. I don't know much about open loop tuning but since it can use wide band sensors I would expect the same to apply.
But those with more knowledge on the subject will step in and correct me if I mis-stated..
good info but where did you get it from. I have seen claims of 15% and a fixed number of cells.
There's 24 cells per cylinder, with a maximum of 5% change from the established VE tables. There's been a lot of discussion about this over at HTT, and the information is in the TTS Tuning Guide (if memory serves).
Originally Posted by UltraNutZ
Well, in closed loop the amount/percentage (up to 5% was always my understanding of the ECM's abilities) of "adaptation" is determined by the range of the narrow band 02 sensor's measurement and can be applied to all cells that are considered closed loop cells. Doesn't mean it will, just that it can. I don't know much about open loop tuning but since it can use wide band sensors I would expect the same to apply.
But those with more knowledge on the subject will step in and correct me if I mis-stated..
This is where it gets confusing. Without O2 sensors, you lose the adaptive fueling. In open-loop, you're not using the O2 sensors for feedback, so you're only getting AFVs in whatever area(s) you're running closed-loop. In closed-loop, the ECM looks at the target Lambda versus what Lambda the O2 sensors are reading, then makes what adjustments it can. The ECM then extrapolates that data and applies it to the open-loop areas as well, BUT there's no feedback there, so you're relying on the VE table being correct in the first place AND that the AFV changes in the closed-loop part of the map are applicable to the open-loop sections.
This is why I keep telling people that tuners that disable or disconnect the O2 sensors are not a good solution, and that the key to having a bike run the way it should is making damn sure the VEs are exactly where they should be. This allows the AFVs to do nothing more than compensate for atmospheric conditions, fuel quality, and your air filter getting dirty (yes, that really does make a difference).
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