Why are lifters adjusted different from autos.
An auto motor generally runs between 30 & 40 psi depending on rpms. A race motor can run 60 psi or more. The added oil pressure will assure the lifter cup stays planted against the holding clip equaling basic zero lash.
Ive closely looked at the HD vs SBC lifters & did notice that the SBC lifter cup has a smaller diameter hole vs the HD lifter cup. There could be a difference in lifter spring rates too but never checked them out on a spring tester.
Just my guess anyway.
An auto motor generally runs between 30 & 40 psi depending on rpms. A race motor can run 60 psi or more. The added oil pressure will assure the lifter cup stays planted against the holding clip equaling basic zero lash.
Ive closely looked at the HD vs SBC lifters & did notice that the SBC lifter cup has a smaller diameter hole vs the HD lifter cup. There could be a difference in lifter spring rates too but never checked them out on a spring tester.
Just my guess anyway.
Like I stated in my previous post, there are a lot of differing opinions and theories on this topic. Your theory on the oil pressure is certainly plausible with one exception...
Where you state "The added oil pressure will assure the lifter cup stays planted against the holding clip equaling basic zero lash" is not correct. Let me explain. The lifter plunger/cup should never be "planted" against the "holding" clip during operation. If it was that would mean one of two things. 1) You have no preload adjusted into the lifter, or 2) the lifter has "pumped up" beyond its design intent. When you adjust in any amount of lifter preload (i.e., .100, .120, .140 etc.), the plunger should never get any closer to the retaining clip during operation than that amount (except as required to compensate for thermal expansion). If it did you would likely have a valve that would never fully seat when closed.
Make sense?
Last edited by 2black1s; Aug 9, 2013 at 03:58 PM.
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I think we all agree that oil does not compress. A lifter has four basic parts; check ball/spring, body, socket and plunger (some refer to the socket/plunger as the piston). The piston moves up and down with the pushrod inside the lifter body and the body moves with the valve. The up/down movement of the piston allows oil to enter and fill the cavity below the piston via the check/ball spring until the cavity is full. At this point the piston stops moving independent of the body, the check ball closes off the entry of oil from the oil galley and the piston moves with the body and the lifter effectively becomes a solid lifter.
The only way oil can escape the lifter cavity is between the outside of the piston and the inside bore of the lifter body. Poor quality control that results in excessive clearance between the lifter piston "skirt" and the lifter cavity bore, or clearances that develop from wear or a weak or broken check valve spring will allow such leaks. These leaks are commonly referred to as bleed down.
The reason lifters like the Woods directional, HQ Blackops, Gaterman and the new S&S lifters are so much better than the others is the precision fit of the four basic parts of the lifter. A Woods directional lifter can take 30 minutes to an hour to bleed down after adjusting as compared to say an OEM lifter that will bleed down in 5 minutes, or less.
I have attached a link to a video that better illustrates my poor attempt at explaining lifter hydraulics. The video is generic as there are variances in the four basic parts of a lifter but I think the basic hydraulics of the lifter are clearly illustrated.
Last edited by 2black1s; Aug 9, 2013 at 09:26 PM.







