Had the dealer replace pads on my Ultra Limited (ABS) about 10,000 miles back when the tire was replaced. Supposedly stock pads were used. Was happy with the rear brake prior to replacement. I've noticed since then the rear brake gets very weak and cant figure out if I've gotten soap or oil on the pad or is it just pad dust. If I remove bags and clean the rotors and pads with brake cleaner, soap and water it seems to get better for a few days but eventally gets weak again. I see no oil or fluid leaks near pads. Suggestions? Should I just replace the pads maybe with some aftermarket Lyndall's?

 

If you have thoroughly cleaned your rotors and pads with hot, soapy water and then scrubbed them with brake cleaner you can assume that there is no dust or oil left on them. If you still have plenty of usable pads left then the next thing to do would be to knock the glaze off the rotors. This is done by raising the tire up on a lift and spinning the wheel while holding sandpaper (150 or 180 grit) to first one side and then the opposite side of the rotor. Hold the sandpaper tight and bear down real hard because that glaze does not want to come off easily. You are not going to hurt the rotors. After de-glazing the rotors clean them up again using brake cleaner and a rag.
As far as using an after market brand of pads, I suppose you could, but the Harley pads are really quite good and I see very little to be gained by changing pads. The pads aren't your problem, unless they are worn out.

 

I'll give it a try as I have a jack and bags are still off. What grit would be suggested? The glazed rotor is probably pretty hard so I guess something suitable for rough sanding metal maybe 100 grit? Dont figure any sanding is any rougher than a turned rotor, just need to be sure its fairly consistent so I do not create a vibration when braking. Another thought if we think its the rotor is I'm less than 5k from a rear tire replacement and might check into replacing rotor when the tire is replaced. Just noticed your grit recommendation so were thinking similar, thanks.

 

I doubt if you have a warped rotor unless you have been racing around an oval track for several hours or making multiple, ultra high speed panic stops one after another until your pads were smoking. Besides, the stealers are real proud of new rotors. They do sell a good many rotors though. Not necessarily because they are wore out and need replacing but more likely because they misdiagnose the problem and want to spend someone elses money (like warranty or the clients).

 

So your pads are 10k miles old, at what mileage were they installed? It is quite possible they are well worn and the pistons are sticking. Take a look and if necessary fit a fresh set.

 

I put new rear pads on at 11k miles as they were about half worn when road debris damaged the original rear tire and had to replace. Just told them while they had the tire off go ahead and replace pads. I tend to use the rear brakes over the front. I'll check the pads again but believe they had about half pad left when I checked recently. Pads are cheap enough I may just go ahead and replace them. Less than a week after cleaning rotor and pads they are back to feeling weak so something is going on with pad or rotor.

Texas, I dont have a warped rotor now, just did not want to cause a problem buffing on the rotor. My problem is weak rear brake not vibration.

 

May be sticking pistons? Not easy to diagnose. On one of my bikes the pads themselves start to hang back from build up of compacted brake dust, due to very little clearance between pads and caliper body.