stick your finger in the end of the plug wire!!! on the clamp just get a regular screw clamp (the right size) its easier to get the clamp tight with a long swivel socket on the end of a 1/4" extension and ratchet

 

"BTW how do you check for spark, if you cant hang the plugs from the wires and ground on the engine?"


Use one of these. You should be able to pick one up at NAPA or Harbour Freight. Works like a charm and can be carried in your tool kit.

 

 

ok just changed a cracked fuel line inside the tank, line between pump and filter. While I was in there I also changed the other fuel line, filter, and pump pick up screen. No more fuel pissing sound inside the tank at IGN on, so that is fixed.

Still no start
no codes
no fuel- no fuel smell in exhaust, but it sprays from the quick disconnect.
Spark?- unverified, I haven't bought one those inline test lights yet.

Any thoughts? I really don't want to trailer this thing to a shop.

 

What is the voltage at battery terminals and on the wires at the battery connection. Back up in post one, it obvious you have an electrical problem or maybe just a sorry reading meter on bike. I doubt the tank was your problem since once running, the fuel pump runs all the time, and unless the hose was very bad, the fuel pump sprays fuel from the relief valve all the time. Just for reference.

After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 2 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.

12.8 = full charged

12.6 = 75%

12.3 = 50%

12.0 =25%

With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read around 14.8 volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger. Also by taking battery out you know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Using the maintenance charger can get 5 years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. If they have one, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any one's for half the money. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery. It will kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably a $500 repair.

 

I verified the battery is in excellent condition with a load test last week, before I started tearing into it. Also left the charger hooked up in jump start mode while cranking.

 

There is a warning on the AGM Harley gel battery to only use a low amp maintenance charger.

 

I'm using a low amp charger, 2 amp in AGM mode, I just used the 50 amp start mode briefly to help out while trying to get her going again.

 

Got it narrowed down to Fuel, Spark is good. I guess I need to buy a fuel quick disconnect so I can rig up a fuel pressure tester. The pump does work and there is pressure in the line to injectors, I just don't know how much.

 

This is going to be interesting when you do find out what it is.
you have, battery, spark and fuel up to injectors. It will turn over but not fire.
If you have security, I will have to check, does the pump run without the fob nearby, or fob with dead battery. did you check the connectors around the battery for loose connection.