Clutch Issues
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 712
Likes: 49
From: NH - Live Free or Die
Clutch Issues
Lately I've been having some issues with my clutch not disengaging when the bike gets hot. It gets tough to downshift and impossible to put the bike into neutral at a stop without shutting it off.
Today I was riding in downtown Milwaukee and it actually got to the point where I had to hold the brake to keep the bike from moving. I could release the brake and clutch, not give it any throttle, and the bike would be rolling.
Any ideas on what it could be?
Today I was riding in downtown Milwaukee and it actually got to the point where I had to hold the brake to keep the bike from moving. I could release the brake and clutch, not give it any throttle, and the bike would be rolling.
Any ideas on what it could be?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
adjustment
best done quickly before the clutch disks are worn or the steels warped.
the procedure has been spelled out on the forums a number of times if you don;t have a manual handy.
a simple handful of tools-
mike
best done quickly before the clutch disks are worn or the steels warped.
the procedure has been spelled out on the forums a number of times if you don;t have a manual handy.
a simple handful of tools-
mike
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 5
From: Bellville, Tx
Sounds like you don't have any play in the cable. Should be able to lightly pull on the lever and have atleast 1/16" to 1/8" freeplay. When the clutch heats up the plates increase in size just enough to drag if there is no play.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 6
From: Lapeer , Mich
and you should change your primary fluid now to , what are you using in there
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,579
Likes: 668
From: Rolla
I found this procedure here on the forum, and use it.
Harley-Davidson Clutch Adjustment
First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.
1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ½” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.
2) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.
3) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.
4) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.
5) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!
6) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ½ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ¾ turn. ½ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.
NOTE: 1 turn will put the inital engagement point closer to the grip.
7) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.
8) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50 to 70 inch pounds of torque.
9) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.
First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.
1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ½” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.
2) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.
3) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.
4) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.
5) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!
6) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ½ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ¾ turn. ½ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.
NOTE: 1 turn will put the inital engagement point closer to the grip.
7) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.
8) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50 to 70 inch pounds of torque.
9) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,466
Likes: 425
From: Illinois
Actually, it sounds like too much play in cable.[clutch not Disengaging]
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 712
Likes: 49
From: NH - Live Free or Die
It's a 2012. I had a new Magnum cable installed last year and service done about 1000 miles ago. The clutch was adjusted then and was smooth as can be. The fluid was also changed then...honestly I don't know what they put in there since I had the dealership do it. The cable has a little play in it and that seems about right.
I'll give the adjustment a shot. Hopefully it's not something I have to do every 1,000 miles.
I'll give the adjustment a shot. Hopefully it's not something I have to do every 1,000 miles.
