Need some electrical help!!
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver, bc
Need some electrical help!!
I have a 2010 Street Glide with a sony head unit, amp, hawg wired hua 360 and arnott shocks with compressor. That's about it for electrical add ons.
The issue:
I noticed while riding when the bike would hit around 3000-3500 rpm my voltage gauge and oil gauge needles would start bouncing back and forth. Also the hand controls and head unit controls would stop working or work intermittently.
Took it to my indy who did some tests and concluded:
- Battery was ok
- Voltage regulator seemed to be fried.
They took a voltage regulator from another bike and everything worked fine.
I ordered a voltage regulator from Harley and when we installed it, the problems were still happening. Again we put on another bike's voltage regulator and the problems stopped, so we figured I got a bad regulator from the dealer.
I sent the voltage regulator back and ordered a new one from drag specialties.
On the way home from the indy I had put my original voltage regulator on just to get me home. Everything seemed to be working fine all of a sudden.
I recently installed the drag specialties voltage regulator and the gauges stopped bouncing around but;
- The audio controls don't work when the bike is running or when it's in the on mode....but they work fine when it's turned to acc mode.
- at 3500 rpm I seem to get a brief flicker of the headlight and the voltage drops a little.
I should mention that when the indy was testing it everything worked fine until the bike hit 3500 rpm and then the voltage would drop some from 13 to 9.
sorry for the long winded post...anyone have any ideas what could be the problem?
The issue:
I noticed while riding when the bike would hit around 3000-3500 rpm my voltage gauge and oil gauge needles would start bouncing back and forth. Also the hand controls and head unit controls would stop working or work intermittently.
Took it to my indy who did some tests and concluded:
- Battery was ok
- Voltage regulator seemed to be fried.
They took a voltage regulator from another bike and everything worked fine.
I ordered a voltage regulator from Harley and when we installed it, the problems were still happening. Again we put on another bike's voltage regulator and the problems stopped, so we figured I got a bad regulator from the dealer.
I sent the voltage regulator back and ordered a new one from drag specialties.
On the way home from the indy I had put my original voltage regulator on just to get me home. Everything seemed to be working fine all of a sudden.
I recently installed the drag specialties voltage regulator and the gauges stopped bouncing around but;
- The audio controls don't work when the bike is running or when it's in the on mode....but they work fine when it's turned to acc mode.
- at 3500 rpm I seem to get a brief flicker of the headlight and the voltage drops a little.
I should mention that when the indy was testing it everything worked fine until the bike hit 3500 rpm and then the voltage would drop some from 13 to 9.
sorry for the long winded post...anyone have any ideas what could be the problem?
I had a similar problem with my hawg 360 controls as well. I spent hours rewiring circuits and checking grounds.
My problem was the power circuit had too much load, and I got a voltage drop on that wire - just enough to make the 360 drop offline. I would have to cycle the key switch to get it to work again.
My problem was the power circuit had too much load, and I got a voltage drop on that wire - just enough to make the 360 drop offline. I would have to cycle the key switch to get it to work again.
That is a circuit that is always hot - direct power to the battery. Its a low amperage circuit that is primarily used for the 12v to the radio for clock/station memory. Make sure nobody tapped into it for other accessories - compressor, LED's, etc. you can always try moving the power for the 360 to another circuit as well.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver, bc
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 274
Likes: 3
From: Portage, IN
That is a circuit that is always hot - direct power to the battery. Its a low amperage circuit that is primarily used for the 12v to the radio for clock/station memory. Make sure nobody tapped into it for other accessories - compressor, LED's, etc. you can always try moving the power for the 360 to another circuit as well.
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 939
Likes: 9
From: WA
Did you by chance have this issue right after the compressor or 360 install? Most often, people will use any hot wire they can find and run extra accessories off of it. I would say that if installing one of these items was the beginning of the issues, you should probably run a new 12v constant to it/them. A decent gauge wire with inline fuse, straight from the battery would be ideal. Couldn't hurt to do this anyway, even if it's not the culprit.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,721
Likes: 372
From: Tonopah Az
A friend and I were on a ride last year and about half way up to Reno his bike started doing like what you are saying. He took it to the Dealer in Reno and they spent 2 days looking at different stuff replaced a bunch of stuff and thought they had it fixed. We took off and about 100 miles out in the boondocks it finally quit. I kept telling him it was a short or broken wire but he wouldn't let me take a look. He finally had to have it towed into Redding Ca. and the tech there found the small wire on the positive side of the battery was broken up in the connector, he repaired it and my buddy finished his trip and I mine( we had to separate, he went north to Wa and I went down the Ca coast). Something to check.