How difficult to replace my own stator?
I've replaced the regulator, tested the stator and it passed I believe. I've pulled all aftermarket accessories off the battery completely and still have the problem. I will trace the battery lead wires and check them next. If it isn't that I will have to take it to the dealer for more help. I'm really at a loss here.
When I tested the stator the ignition switch was off, my multimeter showed 0 ohms as the video linked above said it should.
Not sure where else to look now other than the battery cables
When I tested the stator the ignition switch was off, my multimeter showed 0 ohms as the video linked above said it should.
Not sure where else to look now other than the battery cables
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,476
Likes: 3,002
From: Charleston, SC
With a multimeter:
What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike off? ______ (Mine 12.64)
What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running and idling? ______ (Mine 14.05)
What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running at 2K RPM? ______ (Mine 14.05)
lp
What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike off? ______ (Mine 12.64)
What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running and idling? ______ (Mine 14.05)
What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running at 2K RPM? ______ (Mine 14.05)
lp
Last edited by lp; May 26, 2014 at 09:35 AM.
With a multimeter: What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike off? ______ (Mine 12.64) What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running and idling? ______ (Mine 14.05) What is the voltage at the battery terminals with the bike running at 2K RPM? ______ (Mine 14.05) lp
I've seen the varying voltage at traffic lights using my PowerVision tuner with the battery voltage gauge displaying
Last edited by Joltergeist; May 26, 2014 at 09:43 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,476
Likes: 3,002
From: Charleston, SC
More checks just to baseline:
Bike off, ignition switch to off _____ (12.64)
Bike off, ignition switch to "Ignition" position, spots off, radio on, headlight on (obviously) _____ (12.15)
Bike off, ignition to Accessory position, radio on _____ (12.43)
Bike off, ignition to Accessory position, radio off _____ (12.41)
lp
Ok cool.
More checks just to baseline:
Bike off, ignition switch to off _____ (12.64)
Bike off, ignition switch to "Ignition" position, spots off, radio on, headlight on (obviously) _____ (12.15)
Bike off, ignition to Accessory position, radio on _____ (12.43)
Bike off, ignition to Accessory position, radio off _____ (12.41)
lp
More checks just to baseline:
Bike off, ignition switch to off _____ (12.64)
Bike off, ignition switch to "Ignition" position, spots off, radio on, headlight on (obviously) _____ (12.15)
Bike off, ignition to Accessory position, radio on _____ (12.43)
Bike off, ignition to Accessory position, radio off _____ (12.41)
lp
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,476
Likes: 3,002
From: Charleston, SC
So you go from 12.6 off to 11.8 on (ignition) fogs off/radio on? That actual?
That's a loss of .8 volts. You have something drawing a lot of current with the bike on and it's not your spots or radio (if your spots were actually off)
I only have a .4 drop at the battery with spots off/radio on and only .5 drop with spots on even for conversation's sake.
So something is drawing more current than most (at least mine) so that is why the fluctuation and dim lights at idle probably.
Nothing else wired in there somewhere? Could be loss through your power or ground wire too. Have you tried addressing those areas?
Btw I meant 12.41 radio on and 12.43 radio off above. Sorry but I think you knew what I meant.
lp
That's a loss of .8 volts. You have something drawing a lot of current with the bike on and it's not your spots or radio (if your spots were actually off)
I only have a .4 drop at the battery with spots off/radio on and only .5 drop with spots on even for conversation's sake.
So something is drawing more current than most (at least mine) so that is why the fluctuation and dim lights at idle probably.
Nothing else wired in there somewhere? Could be loss through your power or ground wire too. Have you tried addressing those areas?
Btw I meant 12.41 radio on and 12.43 radio off above. Sorry but I think you knew what I meant.
lp
Last edited by lp; May 26, 2014 at 10:46 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
At idle, it varies, between 11 and 14. It appears to be intermittent. however the other readings are same as yours. Battery reads 12.6 with switch off and 14.2 at 2k rpm.
I've seen the varying voltage at traffic lights using my PowerVision tuner with the battery voltage gauge displaying
I've seen the varying voltage at traffic lights using my PowerVision tuner with the battery voltage gauge displaying
The alternator will see no load (Open Circuit) and can run without damage.
You will rely 100% on the battery and should have a steady condition.
If this is not the case you have to inspect all power connections including fuses. The next step is to search for a broken wire, which is a pain in other words.
Disconnect both connectors of the VR, start the engine and observe your voltmeter. The alternator will see no load (Open Circuit) and can run without damage. You will rely 100% on the battery and should have a steady condition. If this is not the case you have to inspect all power connections including fuses. The next step is to search for a broken wire, which is a pain in other words.
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From: Tumwater, Wa