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You can move the bars fore and aft as far as the wires/cables will let you. On models like the Road King or others that have tank mounted speedos you can only bring them back as far as the tank dash at full left or right lock. When I adjust mine, I put them someplace comfortable (back) then check at full left and right lock to make sure they don't hit the speedo. Then I rotate the controls (clutch & brake) until my wrists are at a natural angle.
You adjust the bars by prying up the plastic silver cover on the handlebar clamp cover. Under there are 2 T40 Torx bolts. Loosen them, a little, and move the bars where you want. Tighten them up, put the cover back on and then use a T27 and T25 on the controls. The 27s are both visible but the 25s on the housing are at the top and bottom, the bottom one sometimes isn't immediately observed.
As far as a manual, you have to buy it. The copyright thing and all. I use paper ones from HD but there may well be PDF versions available for purchase.
Don't pay any attention to al the "Get a service manual" and "Do a search" posts. That's code for "I don't know how to adjust handlebars either but I want to sound like I do." All that said, everything I ever really needed to know I learned at PI.
Semper Fi
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Oct 15, 2013 at 04:30 AM.
You can move the bars fore and aft as far as the wires/cables will let you. On models like the Road King or others that have tank mounted speedos you can only bring them back as far as the tank dash at full left or right lock. When I adjust mine, I put them someplace comfortable (back) then check at full left and right lock to make sure they don't hit the speedo. Then I rotate the controls (clutch & brake) until my wrists are at a natural angle.
You adjust the bars by prying up the plastic silver cover on the handlebar clamp cover. Under there are 2 T40 Torx bolts. Loosen them, a little, and move the bars where you want. Tighten them up, put the cover back on and then use a T27 and T25 on the controls. The 27s are both visible but the 25s on the housing are at the top and bottom, the bottom one sometimes isn't immediately observed.
As far as a manual, you have to buy it. The copyright thing and all. I use paper ones from HD but there may well be PDF versions available for purchase.
Don't pay any attention to al the "Get a service manual" and "Do a search" posts. That's code for "I don't know how to adjust handlebars either but I want to sound like I do." All that said, everything I ever really needed to know I learned at PI.
Semper Fi
How true about PI - Hoorah
Thank you very much Nomadmax - exactly the info a new person to this bike is looking for!
Don't pay any attention to al the "Get a service manual" and "Do a search" posts.
Do pay attention to the get a service manual posts. It's the single best 60 bucks you can spend on your bike (get the OEM manual). It's actually secret code for "I'd like to know the procedure and torque specs". You can find exploded views of most assemblies online here http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson...partfinder.htm
You adjust the bars by prying up the plastic silver cover on the handlebar clamp cover. Under there are 2 T40 Torx bolts. Loosen them, a little, and move the bars where you want.
Great tip! This is my third roadking and I have always pulled the headlight...Thanks!
Last edited by Northbound Southerner; Oct 15, 2013 at 07:49 AM.
Great tip! This is my third roadking and I have always pulled the headlight...Thanks!
Yep, I just found this two nights ago myself. Just need a longer head to reach the adjustments under the chrome plate. It is actually a pretty nice and easy set up.
Nice thing on the new Road Kings is that you can roll the bars nice and high for those of us who prefer more of an ape feel without the price tag. But they are more of a buckhorn type bar, so the further you roll them up you will eventually get an "inverted hands" type issue.
I rolled mine up until the grips put my hands pretty much level and it is a great ride.
you can move the handle bars back towards you BUT you can not move the controls (much) because the wires run inside the bars form the controls and need to line up with the holes in the bars that are under the controls..So if you move the handle bars back but you end up with the mirrors and clutch/brake levers aimed in weird directions..
Do pay attention to the get a service manual posts. It's the single best 60 bucks you can spend on your bike (get the OEM manual). It's actually secret code for "I'd like to know the procedure and torque specs". You can find exploded views of most assemblies online here http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson...partfinder.htm
Happy Motoring!
I only suggested he not pay attention the posts that said "get a manual" not that he shouldn't get one. In the meantime, he can adjust his bars.
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