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New 2" Pullback Bars On 14 Limited

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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:25 PM
  #11  
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I've had the outer fairing off my 14 Limited and it is a heck of a lot easier to work on. I haven't however removed the fairing cap above the switch on this new bike. Is it easier to remove, does it take that special wrench to do.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:51 PM
  #12  
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I haven't had the '14 apart, but...

Never used the "special wrench" on the earlier models, if you take the spring off of the ignition post, it does the same thing as the special wrench.

ALWAYS remember to put the spring back on before reassembly, or you could scratch the paing on your fairing cap.

....or so I've heard.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 11:04 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Gunnysgt
I've had the outer fairing off my 14 Limited and it is a heck of a lot easier to work on. I haven't however removed the fairing cap above the switch on this new bike. Is it easier to remove, does it take that special wrench to do.
No special tool needed. To get the ignition off, put your key in the ignition then as you turn the key CCW (I think) you will push up on the spring loaded button on the bottom and it should release. Kind of tricky but it can be done.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 11:05 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by kj68
I replaced the stock bars on my 2014 Limited today with the 2" Pullback, Harley part # 56176-08. Took me about 5 hours with help from my son and brother. Special thanks to Gotwages here on the forum. His pictures and description of his bar swap were just enough to give me the confidence to try this. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...with-pics.html Didn't need to extend or reroute any wires or cables. There was actually a few inches of slack in the TBW wires under the fairing. The clutch cable just fit. Only had a chance to ride it a couple of miles so far but I think they are perfect. With the stock bars I was leaning forward to reach them, not comfortable at all. Now I sit more upright and arms are relaxed. Kj
Nice job man! Glad to hear I could help with this but all I did was post a few pictures....no where's the finished project pictures?!?!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 06:18 AM
  #15  
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With the pre '14 bikes, the problem was once you took the ignition switch off, if you moved that switch position for any reason, you needed a special tool to reach down and realign all the ignition parts in there or the switch would not turn properly when reinstalled
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 06:32 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Gunnysgt
With the pre '14 bikes, the problem was once you took the ignition switch off, if you moved that switch position for any reason, you needed a special tool to reach down and realign all the ignition parts in there or the switch would not turn properly when reinstalled
or a thin long blade screwdriver.......
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 06:36 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Gunnysgt
With the pre '14 bikes, the problem was once you took the ignition switch off, if you moved that switch position for any reason, you needed a special tool to reach down and realign all the ignition parts in there or the switch would not turn properly when reinstalled
Not true. I have a 13SG. i removed my ingnition swith and somehow i ended up moving the ignition all around, it was kinda tricky getting it all put back in place but its possible without a tool. If you remove the spring, the ignition switch its self is like the tool.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Gunnysgt
With the pre '14 bikes, the problem was once you took the ignition switch off, if you moved that switch position for any reason, you needed a special tool to reach down and realign all the ignition parts in there or the switch would not turn properly when reinstalled
Take a 6"piece of 3/8 copper tubing and flatten it with a hammer. You can insert it when the switch is removed and turn it to any position you want- keeping everything lined up. I turned a 90 degree bend on mine as a reference point .
 
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