Clutch issues 2010 FLHX
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Florida
Clutch issues 2010 FLHX
Having issue with maintaining the clutch adjustment. Stock clutch replaced at 10K due to the clutch slipping from misadjustment (adjusted per specs in manual - both by dealer and by me). Now the new Barnett's clutch has gotten to tight? and the bike is giving off a "burnt" fluid smell. Seems like the adjustment fails in less than 2k miles after service. Is it my clutch method causing this or is there an issue with the clutch that I'm just not seeing?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Michigan
The clutch adjustment includes mis-adjusting the clutch cable adjuster before making your clutch adjustment (cable must have extra slack). Make the clutch release rod adjustment only after the clutch cable adjuster is mis-adjusted. I've had good luck with about 5/8 turn out then tightening the locking nut. After this is done, you need to go back & properly adjust the clutch cable adjuster to give the 1/8" free play at the lever (without this free play, the clutch spring won't fully engage to the clutch pack).
Clutch slippage occurs if the clutch spring (diaphragm spring plate) cannot apply full pressure to the clutch pack, so it's critical to have enough back out in the release rod adjustment to ensure full spring pressure application.
If you're sure this combination of adjustments are correct, then you may need to consider a higher pressure clutch spring. Normal clutch lever usage is at relatively low rpm & load conditions and shouldn't generate enough heat to cause slippage issues at higher load full engagement conditions.
Good luck resolving your clutch issues.
Clutch slippage occurs if the clutch spring (diaphragm spring plate) cannot apply full pressure to the clutch pack, so it's critical to have enough back out in the release rod adjustment to ensure full spring pressure application.
If you're sure this combination of adjustments are correct, then you may need to consider a higher pressure clutch spring. Normal clutch lever usage is at relatively low rpm & load conditions and shouldn't generate enough heat to cause slippage issues at higher load full engagement conditions.
Good luck resolving your clutch issues.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 138
From: StL, MO. USA
Hammz is correct.
Myself, knowing how the clutch works, I still think the adjustment seems contrary to 'how it should be'...It's hard to explain, but the procedure just doesn't feel right. Yet it is.
If your clutch is working its way out of adjustment, you need to find a different solution to tighten the lock-down nut while holding the clutch rod in place. I bought a 6-point wrench specifically for the lockdown nut and then bent it so I would not have clearance (outer primary) issues. It's overkill...but I use a 24" breaker-bar with an allen socket to make sure the clutch rod doesn't move while I tighten the lock-down nut.
Myself, knowing how the clutch works, I still think the adjustment seems contrary to 'how it should be'...It's hard to explain, but the procedure just doesn't feel right. Yet it is.
If your clutch is working its way out of adjustment, you need to find a different solution to tighten the lock-down nut while holding the clutch rod in place. I bought a 6-point wrench specifically for the lockdown nut and then bent it so I would not have clearance (outer primary) issues. It's overkill...but I use a 24" breaker-bar with an allen socket to make sure the clutch rod doesn't move while I tighten the lock-down nut.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
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From: Plum & Nearly
Change the clutch cable. Your 2010 came with 38667-08A and in 2011 the components of the cable were changed and thus a new part# 37200005.
The older cable tended to "stretch" and "contract" caused by heat. The new cable components eliminated that.
Additionally, I understand Barnett discs don't like Formula +. But I think the answer will be with the cable.
Good Luck.
The older cable tended to "stretch" and "contract" caused by heat. The new cable components eliminated that.
Additionally, I understand Barnett discs don't like Formula +. But I think the answer will be with the cable.
Good Luck.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
What lube are you running in your primary?
Sorry the term "mis-adjusting" and "mis-adjusted" was a bit "mis-leading". You loosen the cable adjuster before the mechanical adjustment of the pushrod at the clutch pack. Then you tighten it back until there is an 1/8" of slack at the lever, so it fully releases. This adjustment alone has to be done precisely.
Be certain to check a manual for the precise adjustment of the mechanical adjustor bolt. It varies from type of machine to what year it is too.
You asked about technique. Most importantly is adjustment but if you are holding the clutch lever too tight you may be causing it to slip and burn up those discs and plates. Be certain too that you have assembled them in the proper order. Two plates or discs together is all it takes to cause a failure.
The trouble could also be from the ramp not releasing properly. If the engagement ramp is hanging up it won't allow for full engagement and then smoke the clutch.
Also foul smelling primary oil can be a sign of a stator that's failing.
Be certain to measure your plates and discs comparing to minimum specs and then the whole clutch pack typically has a spec measurement too. I've seen an extra disc added to the pack when needed. If it's in there and not needed it'll negatively impact the clutch assembly.
And last thought is to remove the clutch hub and check alignment issues. A bad bearing, misplaced washer or loosening hub bolt / nut that should have had lock tight on 'em will give you issues too.
Careful moving up to aftermarket setups, most of them can be stiffer to use than stock.
Be certain to check a manual for the precise adjustment of the mechanical adjustor bolt. It varies from type of machine to what year it is too.
You asked about technique. Most importantly is adjustment but if you are holding the clutch lever too tight you may be causing it to slip and burn up those discs and plates. Be certain too that you have assembled them in the proper order. Two plates or discs together is all it takes to cause a failure.
The trouble could also be from the ramp not releasing properly. If the engagement ramp is hanging up it won't allow for full engagement and then smoke the clutch.
Also foul smelling primary oil can be a sign of a stator that's failing.
Be certain to measure your plates and discs comparing to minimum specs and then the whole clutch pack typically has a spec measurement too. I've seen an extra disc added to the pack when needed. If it's in there and not needed it'll negatively impact the clutch assembly.
And last thought is to remove the clutch hub and check alignment issues. A bad bearing, misplaced washer or loosening hub bolt / nut that should have had lock tight on 'em will give you issues too.
Careful moving up to aftermarket setups, most of them can be stiffer to use than stock.
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Florida
Thanks for all the info.
I am currently running RedLine Primary Oil in the Primary, RedLine Transmission w/Shockproof in the Transmission, and RedLine 20W-50 in the engine. All are synthetic if I remember correctly. Came as a kit in A RedLine Performance Pack for $104.00.
The stock clutch was replaced at about 10K miles with a Barnett's extra plate kit. I had the stock spring replaced with the SE spring when they rebuilt the bearings in the tranny under ESP. Bike currently has about 22K on the odometer.
I'm going back in to redo the adjustment again (always done according to manual). And to take a look see if anything else looks askew. Gonna swap the cable as well for good measure.
I was really starting to second guess if I was somehow riding the clutch or tightening the cable too tight, I never had these issues with my RoadStar before I traded for the StreetGlide. Been riding 34 years, you would hope I have the basics of the clutch down by now... lol
I am currently running RedLine Primary Oil in the Primary, RedLine Transmission w/Shockproof in the Transmission, and RedLine 20W-50 in the engine. All are synthetic if I remember correctly. Came as a kit in A RedLine Performance Pack for $104.00.
The stock clutch was replaced at about 10K miles with a Barnett's extra plate kit. I had the stock spring replaced with the SE spring when they rebuilt the bearings in the tranny under ESP. Bike currently has about 22K on the odometer.
I'm going back in to redo the adjustment again (always done according to manual). And to take a look see if anything else looks askew. Gonna swap the cable as well for good measure.
I was really starting to second guess if I was somehow riding the clutch or tightening the cable too tight, I never had these issues with my RoadStar before I traded for the StreetGlide. Been riding 34 years, you would hope I have the basics of the clutch down by now... lol
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