Wheeldock wheel chock
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 5
From: Massachusetts
Harbor Freight has two models of chocks. The good one is about $60 and looks to built at least as tough as any of the others with a similar design. When you roll over the chock locking it, metal never contacts the wheel and the fit is tight. It's about 30# of steel and easily holds the bike upright. Tough to justify spending $200 - $250 on the others.
Last edited by FL450; Nov 13, 2013 at 08:47 AM.
Supporter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,133
Likes: 147
From: Grays Creek, NC
Harbor Freight has two models of chocks. The good one is about $60 and looks to built at least as tough as any of the others with a similar design. When you roll over the chock locking it, metal never contacts the wheel and the fit is tight. It's about 30# of steel and easily holds the bike upright. Tough to justify spending $200 - $250 on the others.
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 19
From: Wake Forest, NC
Wayne
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
I have the HF chock and I found the trick is adjusting it so the front wheel just goes into the chock and the bracket stays level and doesn't allow the wheel to go too far forward and down. Hard to explain but makes sense when you do it. Also I bolted the chock to a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" plywood (you could bolt it to the floor) so that the rear wheel holds it in place when you pull out of the chock.
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 19
From: Wake Forest, NC
I have the HF chock and I found the trick is adjusting it so the front wheel just goes into the chock and the bracket stays level and doesn't allow the wheel to go too far forward and down. Hard to explain but makes sense when you do it. Also I bolted the chock to a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" plywood (you could bolt it to the floor) so that the rear wheel holds it in place when you pull out of the chock.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 5
From: Massachusetts
I think that you could make the ol' in n out easy as pie if you just set a piece of 1/2" plywood in the channel, raising the height of the tire in the locked position. As long as the pivot pin is the high point and you still have the over center action, it should work fine. You might need to adjust the stop back one setting as suggested because lifting the front of the chock up moves the back of the chock back.
Last edited by FL450; Nov 14, 2013 at 06:45 AM.
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 19
From: Wake Forest, NC
I went ahead and ordered the Wheeldock Chock.. will give a review w/ my thoughts once it has arrived and I'ved used it a bit..
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Supporter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,133
Likes: 147
From: Grays Creek, NC
I'll have to play around with my HF chock, thanks for the suggestions and not trying to highjack STREAK, just seamed to work out that way. Mine is bolted down to my table lift, playing with different mounting positions is easy enough to try as long as the bike still locks in.
Supporter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,133
Likes: 147
From: Grays Creek, NC
I have the HF chock and I found the trick is adjusting it so the front wheel just goes into the chock and the bracket stays level and doesn't allow the wheel to go too far forward and down. Hard to explain but makes sense when you do it. Also I bolted the chock to a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" plywood (you could bolt it to the floor) so that the rear wheel holds it in place when you pull out of the chock.
Thanks