Changing Tires
Good Morning from Ohio to all my follow riders. I'm going to change my tires on my 03 Ultra front/rear I've been looking at what's already on the bike, the Dunlop D402's. Any advice or things to look out for when I change my tires. I've never changed a tire on a bike with a belt drive before. It doesn't look to hard but I thought I ask the folks that work on there own. Thanks in advance.
I am very fond of the Metzler ME 880 Marathon.
It will not get the distance of the Dunlop but I definately feel more hook on the road.
I've been running them on my ElectraGlide for the past 6 years.
While you have the wheels off, its an ideal time to check the wheel bearings.
It will not get the distance of the Dunlop but I definately feel more hook on the road.
I've been running them on my ElectraGlide for the past 6 years.
While you have the wheels off, its an ideal time to check the wheel bearings.
I put a set of 880's on my '04 RK Custom and really like them. Also good time to upgrade brake pads if they need replacing. Hardest part is breaking the bead, the Dunlops have a very stiff sidewall.
Thanks for all your replies. I was looking at the 880's and I will give them a try. I've always had sport bikes and now having a dresser I was a little unsure about work on a bike with a belt. But it looks pretty simple. So what brand of brakes if not harley brand who?
I use these brakes. http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/home.htm
The guys and service when I bought my last set was more then fantastic. They used cell phones and called off hours and shipped things promptly.
If you're changing brake pads, I'm sure you're aware a good bleeding is in order.
The guys and service when I bought my last set was more then fantastic. They used cell phones and called off hours and shipped things promptly.
If you're changing brake pads, I'm sure you're aware a good bleeding is in order.
Nothing hard about it. You need a 36mm socket for the rear axle, and it is good idea to have a belt tension gauge to get your belt right after you put the tire back on. The rear axle is self aligning so no problems with getting the alignment right.
You will probably need to remove the rightmuffler, or at least loosenit and letit drop down far enough to get the axle out.
You should also have a torque wrench that goes to at least 105Lbs.
On the front you need to remove both brake calipers. For this you will need a 10mm 12 point socket.
Before you startthis project, it would be a good idea to get the HD service Manual for your year and model.
Regards,
Bill
You will probably need to remove the rightmuffler, or at least loosenit and letit drop down far enough to get the axle out.
You should also have a torque wrench that goes to at least 105Lbs.
On the front you need to remove both brake calipers. For this you will need a 10mm 12 point socket.
Before you startthis project, it would be a good idea to get the HD service Manual for your year and model.
Regards,
Bill
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Ok thanks guys and Bill hats of to you for the details. I'm be sure to post some pics. You'll keep in touch and if your going to be in Ohio near or in Columbus let me know so we can ride.
Don't force anything.
If the wheel is not going back on easily, something is in a bind.
It could be brake pads or caliper or a wheel spacer cocked.
Just go easy and it is simple.
If the wheel is not going back on easily, something is in a bind.
It could be brake pads or caliper or a wheel spacer cocked.
Just go easy and it is simple.
Back to replacing your brake pads. I agree on the Lyndall pads. Pick up a set of the Z+ pads. They are rated for 18,000+ miles but naturally this depends on your riding style. Their web page is posted below:
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/products.htm
You can find these pads sold at most of the discount cycle parts stores so make sure you shop around for the best deal.
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/products.htm
You can find these pads sold at most of the discount cycle parts stores so make sure you shop around for the best deal.






