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103 Engine Temp

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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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Default 103 Engine Temp

First off let me apologize if this is a repeat. Had a quick look and found nothing directly related.

I've got a 2012 Roadglide with a 103, it's my first twincam. I am mildly concerned about the engine and primary temperature. She gets warmer than the Evo on hot days, it's got the engine idle temperature management system so that doesn't worry me too much, sure kicks in a lot though. Enough so that I pushed her for 3 Kms (2 miles) while waiting to cross the border at Fort Erie.

The primary is my big concern, the clutch basket gets hot enough to be uncomfortable to brush against even in jeans. So hot in-fact that the Willie G derby cover I bought lost the epoxy eyes and nose on three different covers, eventually went back to stock. I've approached the dealership about it, they replaced the last derby cover and we both had a good look at the clutch adjustment and all seems ok. It especially concerns me as you can't cool the primary oil.

Might it be something as simple as dropping the tranny into neutral at the lights? (not a fan of that) Never have that problem with the WG but it seems the clutch throw is a bit longer on the older bike as well.

Any thoughts?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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I have a 2011 road glide with the 103 . I have no heat problems ., got new pipes and pc5 ..in Daytona last year never had a heat problem
 
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 07:15 PM
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I assume your PCV has the correct map on it for your set up.

Stock mine was so hot and out of wack it yellowed the mufflers and began blueing some header chrome at the hose clamps.

Went from air cleaner through header and mufflers with a tuned PCV for my set up and the heat was gone.

Check your map.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by WolfDog
I assume your PCV has the correct map on it for your set up.

Stock mine was so hot and out of wack it yellowed the mufflers and began blueing some header chrome at the hose clamps.

Went from air cleaner through header and mufflers with a tuned PCV for my set up and the heat was gone.

Check your map.
To be honest with you I'm not sure. I should pull the plugs and read them for a quick check. Never changed the map with the Rinehart slip-ons as it's typically not required with this sort of change. Should look tho... Thanks!

Respects
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 12:23 PM
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Mike, you never mentioned EXACTLY what has been done to your bike except for the slip on mufflers you talked about in the above post. Is your bike stock except for the slip on mufflers? If you still have the stock header with the cat in it, THATS where ALOT of your heat is coming from. I gutted mine, added a big sucker air cleaner, x-ied's and slip on mufflers, heat is GONE! Stay safe on your new scoot.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 02:09 PM
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Read an interesting statement in American Iron Magazine, issue 305, while reviewing the new Rushmore water cooled heads. In essence , the longer the newer 103" touring engines are running at highway speeds there is a drop in engine performance due to heat not being shed by the engine/airflow around the engine. It might be minuscule but makes one wonder if this is another HD engineering oops, you know like cam chain shoes that self destruct after x miles.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Arnold
To be honest with you I'm not sure. I should pull the plugs and read them for a quick check. Never changed the map with the Rinehart slip-ons as it's typically not required with this sort of change. Should look tho... Thanks!

Respects
Pulling the plugs on a FI engine wont tell you much if anything. You need to get it on a dyno or run a flash tuner that can self tune to see if you are out of tune and that is adding to the heat. The Power Vision, SEPST, TTS, or a PCV with auto tune can avoid a dyno for you.

Does it ping or pause? are the head pipes turning yellow? those are tell tell signs. Do you still have the Cat in the pipes? allof this adds to the hot condition
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 03:07 PM
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My first T/C (88) was definitely warmer than my EVO's but the real heat began with the T/C 96 and the 103 was even hotter.
I have a 110 and my friend's 103 (upped from a 96) is hotter than my 110.

His when stock, it ran so hot that it had to be rebuilt at just over 10,000 miles

If you haven't already, remove the cat and so the Stage I upgrade and if you don't have an oil cooler you should.

My 103 came with a cooler and I'm planning on the Wards Fan Kit by summer.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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Derby cover hot as hell - normal. Every HD I've owned...

All bikes were tuned, had an oil cooler, and a Fan.

Just ride it and keep your leg off of it.

lp
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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Thanks for all the input.

my67pnycar: It's a stock bike with the exception of the Pipes.

XARAN: I agree gas today has too many additives to tune your bike by and I'd be a fool to tune it by plug colour alone. A look would only tell me to go deeper.
It does pause, ping when ambient air temp is over 100 degrees and there is some discoloration of the pipes but much less than so than the evo in the same set of circumstances.

lp: I hear ya, got concerned when a HD derby couldn't handle the heat.

2AMGuy XARAn, seniorsuperglideE8 and whoever I've missed Thanks for the input, I think the Cats are already gone (went with the pipes) but I will double check. Anyone have a link to the how to?
 
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