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Problems with dealer cam install

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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 04:33 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jswayz01

I never took delivery of the bike, I wouldn't accept it... They are supposed to be working on it. But I prob will end up bringing it somewhere else.
Looking back at your OP, the add ons you did prior to having the dealer install the cams would've netted you around the same numbers as what your dyno shows. Betcha a dollar to a donut they never installed the 222's in your bike.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jswayz01
I never took delivery of the bike, I wouldn't accept it... They are supposed to be working on it. But I prob will end up bringing it somewhere else.
Great! They are probably scrambling to get the 222's installed and claim they found a loose connector...

Good luck getting a resolution
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #23  
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Following this thread hoping to determine what my SE tuner is. Black w/red button, red indicator when power or other factor makes is blink and two ports, one serial (like monitor connection) and another port like I've never seen before, not USB like the normal USB ports. SE Performance Parts script in orange on device. Had a 96 to 103 upgrade done in January of 09 on a 08 Ultra. 255s cams and its a dog. Bike has sidecar so a dyno was not an option without removing car and it was a unit when conversion was done. I have a feeling all I got was a Stage II download. I still own the unit but have a 09 TriGlide also w/Fueling 525s and the Tri will eat the hack unit for breakfast. I know I got taken but it's too late to cry over sour milk just looking for options even if it means removing car from unit. What tuner do I got so I can make the unit a better performer, just dyno or look in another direction???
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #24  
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Looking at the dyno sheet I wouldn't be surprised at all if they got them off a tooth or two. 222s shouldn't have anywhere near that narrow a power band. Even the stock cams do better.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 0ldhippie
Looking at the dyno sheet I wouldn't be surprised at all if they got them off a tooth or two. 222s shouldn't have anywhere near that narrow a power band. Even the stock cams do better.
Yeah, that's what I have been thinking... It seems to explain of of the problems. Tech said he had to do like 6 pulls on the dyno just to get it to that point. I'm going to go back tomorrow and talk with them, someone else on here also suggested clutch slippage, I did have a new compensator put in at the same time so it deft could be a possibility. If I don't hear what I want tomorrow I'm taking it elsewhere.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 10:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jswayz01
I never took delivery of the bike, I wouldn't accept it... They are supposed to be working on it. But I prob will end up bringing it somewhere else.
I think your bike is a 103. If it is make sure they know that. What they are probably doing is checking for sumping. That is were the o ring between the oil pump and motor is leaking. This can cause problems like this. If they set the program for 96 and its a 103 that can make some difference too. I can send you a map if you have someway to get it put on. You will have to send me your email in a PM. The SEPST maps are too large to send in forum. You should be in the mid 90's on hp atleast and 110 plus on the torque with what you have.
I am real sure it isn't a SERT as they didn't have a button on them. Ask the dyno man what the file extension on the map is. If it is a dt0 That is a number zero on the end it is a SEPST. A TTS would be MT8, SERT would be a MT6. Not sure what the street tuner extension is.
If this is a 103 it may very well have had a 255 in it and if it did the timing is retarded very bad on these. Not sure about the cam but pretty sure it is 103.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 10:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jswayz01
Yeah, that's what I have been thinking... It seems to explain of of the problems. Tech said he had to do like 6 pulls on the dyno just to get it to that point. I'm going to go back tomorrow and talk with them, someone else on here also suggested clutch slippage, I did have a new compensator put in at the same time so it deft could be a possibility. If I don't hear what I want tomorrow I'm taking it elsewhere.
Did you get an AFR graph at the bottom of the dyno chart. That would tell a lot. Was the base run done before the teardown and replacement of the cam and compensator? If I had to guess the base run was done with the new cam and the program that was either on the ecm or one they chose. I doubt it was done on the cam that was already in the engine. Either way pretty sad numbers. The compression numbers and leakdown do not indicate a major problem. I will say it is tune issue. If you don't get above 90 on hp and 105 on torque something is wrong for sure. If the dyno man pulled my engine 6 times and got these numbers I would be pissed. He should have stopped after the second pull. Maybe he was trying to let it autotune itself, just joking.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ke5rbd
I think your bike is a 103. If it is make sure they know that. What they are probably doing is checking for sumping. That is were the o ring between the oil pump and motor is leaking. This can cause problems like this. If they set the program for 96 and its a 103 that can make some difference too. I can send you a map if you have someway to get it put on. You will have to send me your email in a PM. The SEPST maps are too large to send in forum. You should be in the mid 90's on hp atleast and 110 plus on the torque with what you have.
I am real sure it isn't a SERT as they didn't have a button on them. Ask the dyno man what the file extension on the map is. If it is a dt0 That is a number zero on the end it is a SEPST. A TTS would be MT8, SERT would be a MT6. Not sure what the street tuner extension is.
If this is a 103 it may very well have had a 255 in it and if it did the timing is retarded very bad on these. Not sure about the cam but pretty sure it is 103.

Yes, It is a 103"... I will mention this to the dealer tomorrow. And it's funny you said jokingly about auto-tuning but that was actually mentioned to me, that they don't really tune these because they have a closed loop ECM and they will "tune themselves" after a new map is put on, this was told to me by the warranty mgr so I kinda ignored his comment and hoped the tuner would actually.. You know.. Tune! I know the ECM will make adjustments but only very minor changes. I think it's going to go to another shop if only to help me sleep better at night. Oh and no afr map on graph
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jswayz01
Yes, It is a 103"... I will mention this to the dealer tomorrow. And it's funny you said jokingly about auto-tuning but that was actually mentioned to me, that they don't really tune these because they have a closed loop ECM and they will "tune themselves" after a new map is put on, this was told to me by the warranty mgr so I kinda ignored his comment and hoped the tuner would actually.. You know.. Tune! I know the ECM will make adjustments but only very minor changes. I think it's going to go to another shop if only to help me sleep better at night. Oh and no afr map on graph
Run man run! I would pay for the cam install and comp. but I doubt very seriously they would have enough nerve to charge you for a dynotune. Yeah right! If you want to get some cables and put the software on your computer I can send you a map and will promise you it will work. I can also walk you through the install. All you have to do is find the directory and put the file in it and open the software update it and open the map and hook up to the VCI and bike, turn on both ignition and run switches. The bars will come off the flash icon at the top once it logs onto the bike. It will tell you to update the VCI which it will do from the pc. Once done click on Program ECM and follow the directions. I like to remove the adaptive learning trims before. It is a check box below the program button. It won't let you screw up. The cables are only around $40 and the software is on the Harley website if you have the serial number on your VCI. The 2009's have very slow timing maps. You need as much as 10 degrees more timing in certain places. Auto tune/Smart tune will only improve VE tables. I would still make sure it isn't sumping as this can be a problem when installing cams if don't replace o ring or get it out of place.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:10 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ke5rbd
Run man run! I would pay for the cam install and comp. but I doubt very seriously they would have enough nerve to charge you for a dynotune. Yeah right! If you want to get some cables and put the software on your computer I can send you a map and will promise you it will work. I can also walk you through the install. All you have to do is find the directory and put the file in it and open the software update it and open the map and hook up to the VCI and bike, turn on both ignition and run switches. The bars will come off the flash icon at the top once it logs onto the bike. It will tell you to update the VCI which it will do from the pc. Once done click on Program ECM and follow the directions. I like to remove the adaptive learning trims before. It is a check box below the program button. It won't let you screw up. The cables are only around $40 and the software is on the Harley website if you have the serial number on your VCI. The 2009's have very slow timing maps. You need as much as 10 degrees more timing in certain places. Auto tune/Smart tune will only improve VE tables. I would still make sure it isn't sumping as this can be a problem when installing cams if don't replace o ring or get it out of place.
Ok, I will see if I can pick up the cables tomorrow, I'll let the dealer check for sumping then I'll pick it up. The whole reason I didn't do the install myself is I've never done it before and don't have a torque wrench or baring puller.. I'm starting to think they would have been good investments for piece of mind. I'm not able to pm for some reason but my email is Jason.swayze@gmail.com u can email me there and I'll send you my primary email
 

Last edited by jswayz01; Dec 5, 2013 at 12:38 AM.
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