Advice on 95" engine build
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,154
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From: South Bend, In
Advice on 95" engine build
Well it's about that time. I can't wait anymore. I am going to do a 95" engine build w/cams and am looking for advise from some of you motor experts.
Here is what I want.
It needs to be reliable since I do like to take trips. I will not be drag racing this bike. Good power probly mid to high rpm. I may also do a gear drive cam, money permitting. I will be doing the build myself along with a friend who is a MC mechanic.
So lets here it, this is for an 06 SG. Help a brother out, I am open to suggestions and plan on doing a lot of research as well.
Here is what I want.
It needs to be reliable since I do like to take trips. I will not be drag racing this bike. Good power probly mid to high rpm. I may also do a gear drive cam, money permitting. I will be doing the build myself along with a friend who is a MC mechanic.
So lets here it, this is for an 06 SG. Help a brother out, I am open to suggestions and plan on doing a lot of research as well.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 3
From: TX
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
ORIGINAL: strtgld
I am open to suggestions and plan on doing a lot of research as well.
I am open to suggestions and plan on doing a lot of research as well.
There are a couple of possible routes. The 1st thing is going to be for YOU to decide what kind of results you want and will be happy with for the foreseeable future. Not everything can be "added to later" and still give the best possible results.
I totally understand wanting Bagger power that is reliable, as we usually log between 15 & 20k miles per year... with at least one 2 week ride thrown in somewhere.
Option 1: Simple upgrade. BigBore w/ S/E pistons, decent set of cams (Andrews 26G's, HQ-0034, ect.), pipe, air filter, tuning device (SERT / PCIII / DTT / T-Max) and a GOOD tune. This is economical and will change your riding experience for the better. You're not gonna surpise anyone by smok'n them down the hwy, but it will make for a bike that runs MUCH better.
Option 2: Get yourself a proven "package" from a reputable performance shop like Head-Quarters, GMR, Performance Techniques, etc. This is where your "homework" will really pay off. The sky is the limit here. I built a conservative HQ 98"er that makes 113/111 @ only 10:1 CR and is built to ride from TX to AK to NY and then some...
I suggest you read Wnogood's post in the Touring section titled "Phone call to Head-quarters, very impressed!"
Feel free to PM me if I can help ya with any questions....
Good luck & HAVE FUN with it!!!!!
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,154
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From: South Bend, In
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
Thanks for the advice. I have already done research on the SE 95" and 204 cams, this sounds what i'm looking for, I would like to do gear drive cams but money is limited.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,296
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From:
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
I used PhilM's suggestion and built a conservative engine using HD's cast pistons, 95" bore, but used Andrew's 26G cam since I wanted to get rid of the chain drive. Motor runs very well - a bit more vibration, but, other than that, I'm very happy with the power and torque increase. Using a Power Commnader and could probably get more power with a sert which I will do sometime (79HP and 90ft/lb tq). My TQ is very flat from about 2400 RPM up to 5500. Just where I want it. Good luck and it's a fun job to do - intake manifold bolts are booger though - get yourself some 4-5" ball head Allen wrenches to fit your 3/8" ratchet. And, of course, a service manual. Couple torque wrenches also a good idea.
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
From: South Bend, In
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
ORIGINAL: Retired_Ted
I used PhilM's suggestion and built a conservative engine using HD's cast pistons, 95" bore, but used Andrew's 26G cam since I wanted to get rid of the chain drive. Motor runs very well - a bit more vibration, but, other than that, I'm very happy with the power and torque increase. Using a Power Commnader and could probably get more power with a sert which I will do sometime (79HP and 90ft/lb tq). My TQ is very flat from about 2400 RPM up to 5500. Just where I want it. Good luck and it's a fun job to do - intake manifold bolts are booger though - get yourself some 4-5" ball head Allen wrenches to fit your 3/8" ratchet. And, of course, a service manual. Couple torque wrenches also a good idea.
I used PhilM's suggestion and built a conservative engine using HD's cast pistons, 95" bore, but used Andrew's 26G cam since I wanted to get rid of the chain drive. Motor runs very well - a bit more vibration, but, other than that, I'm very happy with the power and torque increase. Using a Power Commnader and could probably get more power with a sert which I will do sometime (79HP and 90ft/lb tq). My TQ is very flat from about 2400 RPM up to 5500. Just where I want it. Good luck and it's a fun job to do - intake manifold bolts are booger though - get yourself some 4-5" ball head Allen wrenches to fit your 3/8" ratchet. And, of course, a service manual. Couple torque wrenches also a good idea.
Banned
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,603
Likes: 10
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
take a serious look at the Kuryakyn TW2's (its the second cam in the catalog in case i called the wrong letters on it)....Mike Roland makes some really nice cams and pkg's as well as HQ, GMR, and acoupla others....give us a budget idea
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
From: South Bend, In
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
About 850-900. Have a new baby on the way so I have to watch the spending. I can get SE 1550 kit, 204 cams, all gaskets, stiffer springs for clutch for just under 800. I already have a SERT, A/C, 2-1 propipe. But i'm just doing my homework to make sure I will be happy with the build.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,722
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From: Biddeford, Maine
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
Here is a quick price list -
HQ0034 cams - $271 delivered
SE 1550 flattops - $140 (less if bought at a 20% off sale)
stock cylinder boring - approx. $130
gaskets - approx. $100 (less if bought at a 20% off sale)
replacement bearings - $30
That list will give you a very strong running bike with the power where you want it.......for $671 in parts. If you were going to go gear drive for the cams, add another $300.
Just something to think about,
Steve
HQ0034 cams - $271 delivered
SE 1550 flattops - $140 (less if bought at a 20% off sale)
stock cylinder boring - approx. $130
gaskets - approx. $100 (less if bought at a 20% off sale)
replacement bearings - $30
That list will give you a very strong running bike with the power where you want it.......for $671 in parts. If you were going to go gear drive for the cams, add another $300.
Just something to think about,
Steve
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Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
I believe the 26G and the 203 are very similar - not sure about the 204 comparision, but, someone will chime in I am sure. Don't bother with the stiffer spring until you're sure you'll need it (I didn't). The ball heads need to be the long variety - 4-5" is ideal.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 3
From: TX
RE: Advice on 95" engine build
The Andrews 26, Kury TW-2, & HQ-0034 are all MUCH better cams than either the S/E 203 or 204.
I had a set of 203's in my old EGC and they lasted less than a month ~ they were HORRIBLE! Worse than stock until ~ 3200RPM abnd then they were very strong, but in a Bagger... that is a usless powerband!
If it were me, and I had a similar budget.... I would consider one of the above mentioned cams in a gear drive version and leave the 88" jugs & pistons for the time being. The gears will eliminate the cam tensioner issue and potential issues that result when they fail.
I had a set of 203's in my old EGC and they lasted less than a month ~ they were HORRIBLE! Worse than stock until ~ 3200RPM abnd then they were very strong, but in a Bagger... that is a usless powerband!
If it were me, and I had a similar budget.... I would consider one of the above mentioned cams in a gear drive version and leave the 88" jugs & pistons for the time being. The gears will eliminate the cam tensioner issue and potential issues that result when they fail.