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I used red loctite and just heated the nut up a bit and it broke free. I like the extra security you get from the loctite, but probably not really necessary.
The Harley PDF on the SE pushrods calls for no loctite or mention a torque. However does in the video by fuelmoto on them at the end. If I used the bike for long trips, best security in my opinion would be what you have. But obviously when done correctly just as good. Were I post a torque, it was for the nut size. I would do it like moto, but notice in the video, he is not to consistent in how he tightens if you watch closely....
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 29, 2013 at 10:49 AM.
The Harley PDF on the SE pushrods calls for no loctite or mention a torque. However does in the video by fuelmoto on them at the end. If I used the bike for long trips, best security in my opinion would be what you have. But obviously when done correctly just as good.
I have the SE adjustables in mine for 50K miles & only had one loosen up on me, but I was cranking on it (@ redline or maybe a little over). But readjusted all of them & made sure I got a good tight grip on the lock nuts, no loctite. It's been around 30K miles since then.
If you use the S&S quickie adjustables you have new tubes, plenty of room to adjust, no need to remove lifter block, and a more finely adjustable rod (32 pitch) vs the SE pitch of 24. No locktite required and no cracked nuts. Once you tighten the jam nut, they are rock solid.
If you use the S&S quickie adjustables you have new tubes, plenty of room to adjust, no need to remove lifter block, and a more finely adjustable rod (32 pitch) vs the SE pitch of 24. No locktite required and no cracked nuts. Once you tighten the jam nut, they are rock solid.
Cracked jam nuts on the se rods are a thing of the distant past. Seemed a little common 4-5 years ago but none recently. I went with them for additional clearance. I have a nearly new set of s&s rods that can be had cheap. Less than 3k miles on em.
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