TC 88 cam conversion
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 382
From: Arkansastan
.....After looking up some costs it would seem that I'm looking at around $660 for the HD parts through Surdyke (Upgrade kit, cam spacers, gaskets and SE pushrods), $230 for an Andrews N series cam on ebay, and whatever an oil change costs. Am I missing something?
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 100
From: Pasadena TX
Add a couple more $ for the three seals, assy lube, and the extra bolts you will need for the tensioner housings on the cam plate. I just did my conversion and used the screamin eagle oil pump, it is cheaper than the "08-up" pump, and has more scavenge and pressure. I reused my 'B' lifters. I bought my Andrews 21's through Amazon. All other parts are genuine HD.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 382
From: Arkansastan
I like them. The real difference between them is the 26's come on about 5-600 RPM's to the right of the scale than the 21's. I used the 21's because to be honest, the bike ('06 ultra) is gonna be used mainly 2-up, and on 2 lane roads with moderate hills and curves, and of course, interstate. Most of my riding, even on the interstate, doesn't go above 4K except for the occasional blast through the gears to 5K. My speeds are mostly 30-65 on the curvy, hilly 2-laners, and 70-80 on the interstates. There is enough power to go beyond this if needed, and I know both the 21's, and 26's are easier on the total life of the valvetrain because the lift is not super high.
What I did is take those factors into consideration, and made my last ride before conversion, looking at the RPM's in which I truly rode on an average basis. 90% of my time was between 2K to 3K RPM, right in the 21's sweet spot.
The 21's will also give a slight lope at idle.
What I did is take those factors into consideration, and made my last ride before conversion, looking at the RPM's in which I truly rode on an average basis. 90% of my time was between 2K to 3K RPM, right in the 21's sweet spot.
The 21's will also give a slight lope at idle.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,090
Likes: 7
Don't call fuel moto. Geez. EBay has several sellers that offer a complete kit including your choice of conversion cams. Pick up a set of good inner cam bearings and the tools to remove and install and you're set other than your push rods if you choose to go adjustable. All the parts in the kit are genuine hd other than the Andrews cams.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 382
From: Arkansastan
Don't call fuel moto. Geez. EBay has several sellers that offer a complete kit including your choice of conversion cams. Pick up a set of good inner cam bearings and the tools to remove and install and you're set other than your push rods if you choose to go adjustable. All the parts in the kit are genuine hd other than the Andrews cams.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,183
Likes: 836
From: KMHT KFMY
That got rid of the tensioners and upgraded the oiling system, I always have good oil pressure even in the Florida heat. The cams are tame, good idle, good power from 2 grand to 5 grand, not a grind that is going to stress the top end IMHO
next upgrade is a Thundermax to replace my PCIII
Last edited by Neggy ZRXOA 5248; Jan 1, 2014 at 05:01 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 5
From: CT
Yes, I forgot: I picked up cam bearings from Amazon also, and rented the puller for the cam bearings from Auto Zone. I installed them using a mallet and socket, LIGHTLY tapping them until the bearing was flush with the lip on the back of the bearing hole. Was really easy. Personally not keen on EBAY kits but I am sure others have had OK luck with them. Getting your parts from Surdyke is a lot cheaper than places like fuelmoto.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 143
From: Santa Cruz
I have a 2000 Wideglide with 42,000 miles and I switched out the cams and tensioners in January last year.
Since the bike lived 13 years and 42K miles I didn't think it was really necessary to go all hydraulic. I just replaced the cams with Andrews 21's and replaced the tensioner shoes with the ones from Cyco. (inner bearings replaced as well.) These tensioner pads are cheap, maybe $20 for a set or $60 if you buy the little tool they sell for install/removal.
Since the bike lived 13 years and 42K miles I didn't think it was really necessary to go all hydraulic. I just replaced the cams with Andrews 21's and replaced the tensioner shoes with the ones from Cyco. (inner bearings replaced as well.) These tensioner pads are cheap, maybe $20 for a set or $60 if you buy the little tool they sell for install/removal.
I really don't get spending $500-$700 to replace a $50 20-40k maint. item. Ya are really are just saving maybe acouple changes with hyd setup and the extra cost of gears just doesn't compute unless ya plan on running 300+k? I must be missing something???
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 382
From: Arkansastan
I'll say this and probably unleash the hounds on me but NEVER tap on a bearing race especially with a metal object. If you bind up the needles in the housing you will have a disaster waiting to happen. Those can bearings are fragile as hell. It doesn't take much to bind the needles in the race.