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No hounds, but like anything in life, there are other ways. That being said, most people would use a metal hammer and whack away to install a bearing. IMHO, that is the wrong way. If you use a socket with correct diameter, extension, and while hold that firmly against the bearing case, then use rubber mallet and tap lightly, the shock on the bearing case is very minimal and often less then the pressure that the commonly used installation tool will put on the bearing case. It does not take much to get the bearing to move while installing. I have installed many bearings in many different applications this way and never had an issue damaging a bearing. Like I said, just another way.
I agree (I have the special tools) but I agree. In careful hands, this process will work. Until you have bent one, you don't know. I've installed countless automotive bearings like that and never induced a failure. I've also seen a guy ruin 3 in a row. It's just less idiot proof.
I really don't get spending $500-$700 to replace a $50 20-40k maint. item. Ya are really are just saving maybe acouple changes with hyd setup and the extra cost of gears just doesn't compute unless ya plan on running 300+k? I must be missing something???
The problem lies with how long will those tensioner pads last. If it were a predictable item, like say, every 25K they would surely be due for a change, then I could see not worrying. But for those that have failed, the mileage has varied considerably, some lasting 50K+, others with 10K. I personally am not gonna risk being out in BFE when my tensioner fails taking a $5K engine out with it. If it was one of those things that gave plenty of warning, I could see just changing them regularly, but they don't. And for me, it's peace of mind.
Yes, I forgot: I picked up cam bearings from Amazon also, and rented the puller for the cam bearings from Auto Zone. I installed them using a mallet and socket, LIGHTLY tapping them until the bearing was flush with the lip on the back of the bearing hole. Was really easy. Personally not keen on EBAY kits but I am sure others have had OK luck with them. Getting your parts from Surdyke is a lot cheaper than places like fuelmoto.
All the parts in my eBay kit were factory wrapped in oem packaging. I was skeptical until I actually asked what was in the kit. I think I paid just under 7 bills including the cams. It even came with the assorted shims for the outer cam plate.
My oe spring tensioners were fine at 30k. I went back into the cam chest after my hydraulic tensioners had been in service for over 5k and there was almost no wear. I'm not going to turn this into an oil thread but I have to believe it makes a difference.
No hounds, but like anything in life, there are other ways. That being said, most people would use a metal hammer and whack away to install a bearing. IMHO, that is the wrong way. If you use a socket with correct diameter, extension, and while hold that firmly against the bearing case, then use rubber mallet and tap lightly, the shock on the bearing case is very minimal and often less then the pressure that the commonly used installation tool will put on the bearing case. It does not take much to get the bearing to move while installing. I have installed many bearings in many different applications this way and never had an issue damaging a bearing. Like I said, just another way.
I agree. Many ways to get the job done and I've improvised in the past as well. That tiny, flimsy bearing just made me think it wasn't worth the risk. I bought the removal/install tool, used it, then sold it. So for the price of a tool rental I was able to use the intended tool. Now someone else has the tool for a discounted price and can use it and do the same. I've actually gotten smarter over the years ... At least in some respects.
My oe spring tensioners were fine at 30k. I went back into the cam chest after my hydraulic tensioners had been in service for over 5k and there was almost no wear. I'm not going to turn this into an oil thread but I have to believe it makes a difference.
I agree it does, but I also feel that the oil pressure-dependent cam tensioner system is way better than the spring system. Come to think of it, I can't recall any automotive engie that uses a spring set up for cam chains. They all use pressure-dependent systems, and usually without issues. I know a few Suzuki's and such use a spring adjusted tensioner, but many have failed (including the one in my old GS1100) in a similar way that the HD units have. The ones in my '06 Ultra with 18K were about half way gone when I checked them before the conversion.
I agree it does, but I also feel that the oil pressure-dependent cam tensioner system is way better than the spring system. Come to think of it, I can't recall any automotive engie that uses a spring set up for cam chains.
I actually know of several that did. They actually worked OK. Same issues we have though. One day, everything is fine, next day, catastrophic failure. We've come a long way. Or have we?
All the parts in my eBay kit were factory wrapped in oem packaging. I was skeptical until I actually asked what was in the kit. I think I paid just under 7 bills including the cams. It even came with the assorted shims for the outer cam plate.
Do you remember the sellers name? All I can seem to find is the cams themselves.
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