Urgent towing question
2- The u-haul will have a cone/bump-out up front for the front wheel that helps with the frontal left/ right movement prevention.
3-The windshield on a road king should be removed or tie wraps used to lock it in place or the shield could blow-off when in backing/reverse of vehicle or in absolute ideal (bad) conditions.
4- The front is the most important tie down point while the rear is more to prevent lateral movement in this application.
5-Saddle bag removal is not required unless you want to protect bags from some elements.
6-The Black "T" portion of passenger floor boards (road king) is what i use for a rear tie down point as a loop from trailer to that point and back to trailer.
&-The front: i have tie downs with the fur/protector and i run it from behind/under the nacelle forward over the black triple clamp and out the front under the nacelle..must be careful with the solid brake line. You only have about 3 inches of room on each side to get through the hole. So strap to trailer to portion described and back to trailer. Be careful of hard brake line. That area is composed of a super thick piece of metal.
7-Riding bike onto that trailer is no big deal.
8-Front fork compression: The forks are designed to compress..The oil is designed to move through the holes to slow the bounce while the springs do the actual work...That said a compression of about 3/4 is fine. If you have concerns then just remove the air from air shocks and repump at destination but i have never done that. If the seals blow-out then they were bad or someone overfilled the oil or the air to begin with.
9- Straps: the better ones have the clip on the hooks that prevent them from unhooking if shocks compress during a massive bump and cause slack. If you do not have those figure something out like a few tie-wraps/tape at the attachment points.
10-If you have ratchet straps make sure that the metal portions are no way near painted areas of bike.
11- The excess strap that exits rachet should be tied down..i like velcro and purchase it by the roll so i can attach right at exit of strap and several more after.
12-Front straps at about 45 degrees pulling forward and down while rears usually end-up having a lot less angle but are still providing some forward force and down. Front and rear should not fight each other.
13- Think worse case scenario when done and test..then recheck after 5 minutes riding down the road then once more if you are still worried whenever you can.
I bought my first bike in a Buffalo, NY January and had to trailer it home. At the UHaul dealer they instead steered me to an enclosed trailer. That is the way to go. All protected from the elements and road salt that will spray everywhere. Buy a set of 4 ratcheting tie-downs, and you may have to buy some 2*10's from Home Depot as the trailer I got did not have a ramp. You don;t need a big vehicle to pull it either. I used my minivan
http://www.uhaul.com/Reservations/Eq....aspx?model=MV
I used the 5*10 plenty of room, may be able to get away with the 5*8
Last edited by Markymannn; Jan 7, 2014 at 10:32 AM. Reason: .......
and wash as soon as the temps get above zero ( rust does not occur below freezing) no need to coat your bike with "clean ice"
mike
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Leaving it in gear is a great way to bent shift forks. If the straps can't hold the bike, then you should have strapped it better.








