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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 04:22 PM
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Default Cold Weather Starting

Last night, my 2014 FLHXS was outdoors all night. I got on it at 5 am, I think it was 18 degrees out. It did not want to start. After 9-10 try's, I said "one more time, then I'm gonna call for a ride". Then it started. 3 of the try's, it released a little smoke through the air filter. I finally got it started by holding the throttle about half open while cranking.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a wild night. I get off work at 5am. The bike sits in a parking garage, in a corner, surrounded by 4' tall solid concrete walls. So the wind isn't blowing on it.

My bike has Stage one (MGS True duals(full exhaust), SERT, SE Air filter, and dyno tuned). Other than that, it is stock. I have always felt that it cranks a little slow, but it doesn't sound any different than other 2014's I've been around. I also plug the bike in to the battery tender when I get home since it's only a 10-12 minute ride from work.

What can I do to avoid this?(Besides stay home!) Gonna be doing the same thing tonight and tomorrow.

Different battery, thinner motor oil, different spark plug?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 04:34 PM
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If it's like mine, don't wait for the diagnostic light to go out before you hit the button. Hit it right after you turn on the ignition. Mine starts on the first rotation when I do that, even dead cold and sitting for a week sometimes. ( At home, I plug my bike into a block heater glued to the oil pan to keep the oil at 75* or better.) And not to start an oil thread, but I run Mobil 15W-50 automotive synthetic in the wintertime because it flows so much more quickly when cold. (You can tell by the lower cold oil pressure.)
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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I hope you're using a cover on your bike?

My owners manual recommends H-D 360 (SAE 10w-40w)motor oil for cold weather starts below 50 degrees and ambient temps 40 degrees.
Personally, I'd think that the SYN3 should be OK, but at temps below freezing, I doubt there would be little difference in cranking the engine over with either of these oils.

There are batteries that offer more cold cranking amps (CCA) than the OEM battery in your bike and they may give you enough the extra "uumph" to get you started faster.

If U have access to an electrical outlet where U park your bike, I'd suggest a battery tender to help keep the battery fully charged.

My other suggestion may make some folks cringe, but before I even attempt starting my bikes in the spring (especially the carbed EVO) I squirt a small amount of starting fluid in behind the air cleaner cover.
I then crank the engine over a few times and if it doesn't fire, I give it another squirt. Works every time and saves a lot of wear and tear on the starter and the battery.
 

Last edited by 2AMGuy; Jan 25, 2014 at 04:58 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Stiggy
If it's like mine, don't wait for the diagnostic light to go out before you hit the button. Hit it right after you turn on the ignition. Mine starts on the first rotation when I do that, even dead cold and sitting for a week sometimes. ( At home, I plug my bike into a block heater glued to the oil pan to keep the oil at 75* or better.) And not to start an oil thread, but I run Mobil 15W-50 automotive synthetic in the wintertime because it flows so much more quickly when cold. (You can tell by the lower cold oil pressure.)
Just curious, so you have the OEM MM EFI system on your bike?
What is the reasoning for attempting to start your bike before the diagnostic light goes out?
The reason that I'm asking is that I also had a 2000 Ultra, and until I replaced the OEM ECM (it went bad), that bike started on the first push of the starter button, every time, which my new CVO 110 doesn't do.
My new bike seems to turn over about 3 times (when cold) before firing.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 2AMGuy
Just curious, so you have the OEM MM EFI system on your bike?
What is the reasoning for attempting to start your bike before the diagnostic light goes out?
The reason that I'm asking is that I also had a 2000 Ultra, and until I replaced the OEM ECM (it went bad), that bike started on the first push of the starter button, every time, which my new CVO 110 doesn't do.
My new bike seems to turn over about 3 times (when cold) before firing.
As my original starter (still in the bike at 140,000 miles now,) got older I started to get that "clink clank grind" that some newer bikes were getting on hot starts and read that suggestion at that time. I tried it and it works (Stage II 95" MM EFI.) Hot or cold its a one revolution bike when starting up gong on 2 years now. Might work for you...
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 07:48 PM
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One more opinion. A '14 shouldn't have any of the old bike wear factors to consider so while most of that is interesting, the book instructions should work for you. I don't know what your average temperatures are this time of year, but if 18 F is typical for the next couple of months, you need the 10w 40, also as recommended in the book. 20 weight is 20 weight whether syn or dino, otherwise it would have to labeled differently. In other words, If a syn 20W 50 flowed like a 10 weight when cold, it would be labeled as a 10W 50, same for the dino. If the dino flowed like a 30W-50 when cold, that is what it would be labeled.

Finally, a machine doesn't feel wind chill. Once it attains the actual temperature, even a 50 mph wind won't make it any colder. Don't confuse this with cooling rate. A wind will cool a hot machine faster than still air will, but it never gets any colder than the actual temperature once it has cooled off.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by rob5r1
My bike has Stage one (MGS True duals(full exhaust), SERT, SE Air filter, and dyno tuned).
Sounds like the cranking fuel and/or warm up enrichment tables need an adjustment at those temps.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rob5r1
Last night, my 2014 FLHXS was outdoors all night. I got on it at 5 am, I think it was 18 degrees out. It did not want to start. After 9-10 try's, I said "one more time, then I'm gonna call for a ride". Then it started. 3 of the try's, it released a little smoke through the air filter. I finally got it started by holding the throttle about half open while cranking.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a wild night. I get off work at 5am. The bike sits in a parking garage, in a corner, surrounded by 4' tall solid concrete walls. So the wind isn't blowing on it.

My bike has Stage one (MGS True duals(full exhaust), SERT, SE Air filter, and dyno tuned). Other than that, it is stock. I have always felt that it cranks a little slow, but it doesn't sound any different than other 2014's I've been around. I also plug the bike in to the battery tender when I get home since it's only a 10-12 minute ride from work.

What can I do to avoid this?(Besides stay home!) Gonna be doing the same thing tonight and tomorrow.

Different battery, thinner motor oil, different spark plug?
10-12 minute runtime your bike is barely be reaching operating temp. that will cause moisture/contamination problems.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 08:32 PM
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I put the heater on order. Also going to change oil to 10w40 in accordance with the owners manual. I have 1350 miles on the current oil, but the manual also says to change oil every 1500 miles if I frequently travel less than 15 miles and the temp is below 60. Found a place to park where there is an outlet, so I'll plug the heater in, battery tender and cover the bike. Should be up to a full charge since I do a 10 hours shift. I'll plug in the heater about 2-3 hours before I leave. I'm hoping that starting with warmer oil will reduce or eliminate the moisture/contamination issues.

I discussed all this with the service manager at Hampton Roads Harley. Can you believe he told me that most people don't ride when the temp is below 20? Sheeeeeesh!!!!!!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 08:55 PM
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I suspect most of us have more than a 12 minute run to work, and many of those may involve highways (50 mph and above). I could handle a 12 minute run at 18, but 30 to 45 minutes on an intestate, not so much.
 
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