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ABS not working

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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 04:56 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by NDBadlands4-2
Glad that they mystery is solved. Now that it is, how about posting a picture or two of the bike and the new wheels?
Yes I am glad the mystery is solved too! Just got back from a short 150 mile test ride!!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 04:59 PM
  #12  
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Picture
 
Attached Thumbnails ABS not working-image.jpg  
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:49 AM
  #13  
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can this bearing be pulled and reinstalled without ruining it? i thought they were a one time install bearing even with the right puller?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 09:16 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by hardheaded
can this bearing be pulled and reinstalled without ruining it? i thought they were a one time install bearing even with the right puller?
That's a good question. Based on my experience, pulling a "brand new" bearing and reinstalling it is not a faux pas. I say this contingent on the fact that the installer uses the proper bearing puller and seater. If you are using the bull-in-the-China-shop approach and beating your bearings into place, that's another story altogether. Clearance tolerances between the ***** and the race are very, very close. Anything that could cause race deformation will likely contribute to accelerated bearing wear. That's why tapping them into place is risky, compared to "pulling" them into place with constant, equally distributed, controlled pressure.

It is important to use plenty of Permatex assembly lube during install to minimize pressure on the bearing race. And if you need to pull it out for some reason, the assembly lube serves to reduce forces to a level that, in my opinion, are of no consequence to the bore alignment of the 25mm bearing.

Make sure your puller is a 25mm puller, not a 1" puller. Most bearing puller sets come with three collets. BUT, usually, none of them are 25 mm. I bought a 25mm collet from George's Garage. One inch equals 25.4 mm, not 25mm. That extra .4mm may not sound like much, and it isn't. You can get away with using the 1" collet if you want, but I am a "right tool" guy so I use the proper sized collet to match the bearing bore.

I would never remove and replace a used bearing with any miles on it at all. Sure, you might get away with it, but those bearings can put you on the ground if things go wrong. So to me it's not worth the cost differential to re-use a "used" wheel bearing that has been removed. Too many unknowns.

Of course these are just my personal opinions, based on my experience with wheel bearing installations. YMMV
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 09:18 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 2008GLIDE
Picture
That is looking good.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 01:57 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Lowcountry Joe
Here is the HD ABS bearing. It's about 2mm wider than the non-ABS bearing because it contains the ABS encoder. HD is the only vendor for this bearing. Your parts guy has the part number incorrect. It appears he gave you the non-abs part number:


I have one of these bearings that is "new take-off" that I'll give away to anyone who needs it and is prepared to pay postage.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...t-train-6.html
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 02:56 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Lowcountry Joe
Here is the HD ABS bearing. It's about 2mm wider than the non-ABS bearing because it contains the ABS encoder. HD is the only vendor for this bearing. Your parts guy has the part number incorrect. It appears he gave you the non-abs part number:



Here is the non-ABS bearing:



This pic is how the front bearings and the internal spacer look before install. The ABS bearing is on the left in the photo below. It is also oriented as it will be installed in the front wheel with the orange/red seal side facing inward. So once installed, you should see the green/brown seal side of the bearing facing outward.



This is the color that should be facing outward on the ABS bearing:

That was a very informative post, pics and all...excellent!! Thanks Joe
 
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