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Hi, i have a 2010 FLHTK. I want to change the bars to go up and back. It is important to keep the heated grips and keep my hands below the fairing(I ride in cold weather). Many suppliers offer pre-wired for fly by wire, chrome controls etc. but, none that i can find offer the option of stock heated grips. I need advise on this. I would like to do it as painless as possible(plug and play) for under a million dollars!Thank you.
Hi, i have a 2010 FLHTK. I want to change the bars to go up and back. It is important to keep the heated grips and keep my hands below the fairing(I ride in cold weather). Many suppliers offer pre-wired for fly by wire, chrome controls etc. but, none that i can find offer the option of stock heated grips. I need advise on this. I would like to do it as painless as possible(plug and play) for under a million dollars!Thank you.
To keep your hands below the fairing, your limited to 10" bars which may not give you the lift your looking for. Find someone close to you who has 10" & 12" bars on their bike so you can see the difference. I have 12"'s and have them pulled back so they are just about even with the top of the fairing. As far as heated grips, the SE TBW Extension has the two heated grip wires already attached to it, plus it makes it easier to pull the wires through the bars.
I put the Wild One 10 bagger apes on my Limited, everything reached but the clutch cable.
No extensions needed for any wires or the brake line. just a little relocating.
I love em! Hands are just behind the fairing.
As long as you don't want to run the heated grip wires internally all 1" bars work. I have 10" yaffe classic bagger bars and all wires will reach without extension, clutch however needs a +4" on this combo. Mike
I run his 16" meat hooks on my 2013 CVO Ultra and was able to keep my heated grips. Simple process that calls for boring out the left grip a bit to accommodate which Joe will be happy to do for you for the asking.
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