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Lean condition?

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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:22 PM
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canoehead
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Default Lean condition?

Hey guys this might be an old or repeat post and apologize now if so but can anyone tell me if it's worth it to put on the PnP NAMZ ADJUSTABLE O2 ENRICHNER KIT for my 2007 Ultra. Was reading that there might be a lean condition and my pipes are rather blue when looking at the gap on the forward pipe and at the slip on seams. Any input on manufacturer, distributer or maker to buy from if they're worthy is appreciated.
Thanks in advance..
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:37 PM
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I would validate that lean condition you read about before trying to correct it. Blue pipes are not a reliable indicator. Neither are the light frosted plugs.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:43 PM
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I was under the impression that pretty well all 07 & 08's ran lean. I have K&N intake and Supertrapp exhaust done. What's the best way to validate a lean burn?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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No need to validate...they all run lean from the factory at the factory settings. 2010 Limited with some stuff
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:49 PM
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Only way to validate it is O2 feedback.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SBates08
No need to validate...they all run lean from the factory at the factory settings. 2010 Limited with some stuff
Really, they all have a cruise AFR above stoichiometric, 14.7:1, right from the factory? Here we go, ye haw!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 11:00 PM
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a prime symptom of a lean condition is pinging- pre-ignition.

this is more likely to occur when pulling loaded up a grade ( not like you have any grades near you) or dragging a trailer.

it will sound like pebbles in a coffee can and is usually momentary as the ECM will detect it and retard ignition timing.
however this retarded timing will usually cause the rpms to drop ( less power produced per stroke)...and the rider to downshift.

those of us who DIY and know how the system works can take readings from the o2 sensors with a voltmeter and from that know if the mixture is rich, lean, stoich etc and under which conditions, rpm, speed, load, temperature

In my case I have a 96" and a ness big sicker, no cat headers and supertrapps.
and I needed tuning compensation.
I use nightrider.com xieds, cost is the US under $125


Mike
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 12:16 AM
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What stoichiometric are we talking about? Stoichiometric means the ideal afr for your goal.

Stoichiometric for the lowest exhaust emissions is about 14.6/1

Power stiochioimetric is 12.5/1. The lower the stoichiometric, the more fuel is burned and the more power can be produced. So the ideal power stoichiometric that bikers are looking for should be the ideal power stoich and not the ideal emmisions stoich.

Of course I'm just an old coot that knows nothing. But I do have 11 HD's that run cool, strong and will last longer than any bike running emmisions stoich.

I'll add another one.The ideal stoichiometric afr for a drag bike run wot for a 1/4 mile would be from 10 to 11/1 afr.
 

Last edited by lh4x4; Feb 19, 2014 at 12:22 AM.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 12:20 AM
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ok define Stoichiometric, just so we use the term correctly:

Stoichiometric or Theoretical Combustion is the ideal combustion process where fuel is burned completely.
A complete combustion is a process burning all the carbon (C) to (CO2), all the hydrogen (H) to (H2O) and all the sulphur (S) to (SO2).
With unburned components in the exhaust gas, such as C, H2, CO, the combustion process is uncompleted and not stoichiometric .

Complete text ( and a nice read) here:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/st...ion-d_399.html


air/fuel ratio and stoich are not the same thing


mike
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 01:28 AM
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I see the brainiacs are throwing out their knowledge.

I also have an '07 and when I put on better mufflers and Screamin Eagle air cleaner I definitely needed some tuning as it seemed to have less power. I did the FuelPak and the bike ran much better. I do not know about the set up you are describing, have never heard of it before.
 
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