Help removing headlight housing (rubber mounted screws problem)
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: 27540
Help removing headlight housing (rubber mounted screws problem)
So I'm trying to install a set of 4in risers along with the street slammer handlebar cover on my 04 RK.
It's got a set of heritage bars on it now, and from what I've seen on another thread here, 4in risers will work with those bars with the factory wiring and I won't need anything longer.
So the process has me removing the trim ring around the headlight, then removing the headlight itself, which leaves the headlight assembly/housing (I think it's called the headlight bucket) or whatever you want to call it.
There are 7 screws that are rubber mounted around this part. I can't seem to figure out the trick to removing them. When I turn the screws, the rubber mount turns around with the screw so it doesn't get loose. I've tried holding on to the rubber inside the headlight area from the other side of the front end, but I can't seem to get enough of a grip to keep the rubber from turning when I turn the screw.
All instructions I've seen for removing the headlight and so forth simply say "remove the rubber mounted screws."
I don't claim to be a tech by any means and I'm not extra handy obviously, but am I missing something here? It seems there's a trick to this that simply stating "remove the rubber mounted screws" is not covering.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
It's got a set of heritage bars on it now, and from what I've seen on another thread here, 4in risers will work with those bars with the factory wiring and I won't need anything longer.
So the process has me removing the trim ring around the headlight, then removing the headlight itself, which leaves the headlight assembly/housing (I think it's called the headlight bucket) or whatever you want to call it.
There are 7 screws that are rubber mounted around this part. I can't seem to figure out the trick to removing them. When I turn the screws, the rubber mount turns around with the screw so it doesn't get loose. I've tried holding on to the rubber inside the headlight area from the other side of the front end, but I can't seem to get enough of a grip to keep the rubber from turning when I turn the screw.
All instructions I've seen for removing the headlight and so forth simply say "remove the rubber mounted screws."
I don't claim to be a tech by any means and I'm not extra handy obviously, but am I missing something here? It seems there's a trick to this that simply stating "remove the rubber mounted screws" is not covering.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by ShockwaveTXB; Mar 12, 2014 at 10:12 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Glendale AZ
Interesting...mine screw right out, Ive had em out more often than I can remember. Im guessing the age of the bike is the problem. get em off by gently prying them out, then buy replacements at the dealership. You might also be able to get your hand inside the Nachelle (headlight bucket) to possibly steady them and get them to stop spinning.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,976
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From: Northern California
Those things suck and just about every turd who ever worked on the bike before overtightened them I bet.
I just put pressure on the bucket like trying to remove it by using a screwdriver with tape and go the stubborn ones out.
How do you plan to modify the handlebar cover for the risers without it looking like a jar of smashed ********? Having the risers accessible will sure be nice for future adjustments or changing the bars though. What a pain in the hiney messin with bars is on the King.
I just put pressure on the bucket like trying to remove it by using a screwdriver with tape and go the stubborn ones out.
How do you plan to modify the handlebar cover for the risers without it looking like a jar of smashed ********? Having the risers accessible will sure be nice for future adjustments or changing the bars though. What a pain in the hiney messin with bars is on the King.
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: 27540
Ya, that's why it's driving me nuts, all the instructions act like they should just come right out and all videos just show them coming out.
But the rubber mount pieces are not staying put and spin with the screw when I turn the screwdriver so it's impossible to loosen them.
I tried prying them, but I'd end up ripping it out and like you said, would need replacement rubber pieces from the dealer when putting it back.
And I've tried reaching inside like you said and steadying them, but that isn't working. It's too hard to steady them enough to allow the screw to move.
I'll likely just take it to the dealer and let them monkey around with it.
But the rubber mount pieces are not staying put and spin with the screw when I turn the screwdriver so it's impossible to loosen them.
I tried prying them, but I'd end up ripping it out and like you said, would need replacement rubber pieces from the dealer when putting it back.
And I've tried reaching inside like you said and steadying them, but that isn't working. It's too hard to steady them enough to allow the screw to move.
I'll likely just take it to the dealer and let them monkey around with it.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 557
Likes: 1
From: 27540
Those things suck and just about every turd who ever worked on the bike before overtightened them I bet.
I just put pressure on the bucket like trying to remove it by using a screwdriver with tape and go the stubborn ones out.
How do you plan to modify the handlebar cover for the risers without it looking like a jar of smashed ********? Having the risers accessible will sure be nice for future adjustments or changing the bars though. What a pain in the hiney messin with bars is on the King.
I just put pressure on the bucket like trying to remove it by using a screwdriver with tape and go the stubborn ones out.
How do you plan to modify the handlebar cover for the risers without it looking like a jar of smashed ********? Having the risers accessible will sure be nice for future adjustments or changing the bars though. What a pain in the hiney messin with bars is on the King.
The handlebar cover that is on the bike will be replaced. Harley sells a cover that is designed to fit with their Street Slammer bars, so the cover has two holes in it for the risers.
The risers cost like $40 and the street slammer cover was another $40. So for $80 plus whatever labor ends up since it doesn't look like I'll be able to do this myself...that's a hell of a lot cheaper than getting 14in or something bars and ending up replacing the stock cables. So I figured I'd give this a try instead of spending $800-1000 on higher bars/longer cables.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
As said or maybe try some penetrating oil on the screws, and if you cant grab the rubber part with needle nose to keep from spinning, Id tryprying them off and replace them. Then perhaps put some never seeze on the screws when reinstalling so theres no more of these next times!
Worst case would be to grind the screw heads off than remove the bucket and replace what you lost.
Worst case would be to grind the screw heads off than remove the bucket and replace what you lost.
Last edited by bagman1; Mar 12, 2014 at 10:42 PM. Reason: Moe ideas!
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 557
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From: 27540
As said or maybe try some penetrating oil on the screws, and if you cant grab the rubber part with needle nose to keep from spinning, Id tryprying them off and replace them. Then perhaps put some never seeze on the screws when reinstalling so theres no more of these next times!
Worst case would be to grind the screw heads off than remove the bucket and replace what you lost.
Worst case would be to grind the screw heads off than remove the bucket and replace what you lost.
I'll probably just take it to the dealer, tell them what I want done with it and tell them that when I tried to remove the bucket the screws gave me trouble so they can just do whatever needs done.
I'll just expect about an $80 bill once that's done, but it's still a hell of a lot cheaper than new bars/cables would have been.
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