Need help ASAP. Electrical problem
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 1
From: Mission BC
OP.
I'd really look at your charging system before looking at the bars. ( these problems may not be related)
there are a couple of universal truths:
a bad battery can destroy the charging system.
a stator can destroy the VR
the VR can discharge the battery
and cables can be loose or corrode internally
as suggested above, a few minutes with a voltmeter will tell you if the stator is good, if the VR is good.
ALL checks MUST be done with a known good, fully charged battery.
A trickle charger or tender is NOT a battery charger. It will maintain a charged battery ( "tend") but not re-charge a discharged battery.
I posted a thread last year on a neighbor who spent $1300 on repairing the charging system and battery- to find that a $12 battery cable was responsible for all that expensive stuff blowing up.
The electrical system is really easy to check, if the 'checker" has an understanding of what each part does.
everything described above suggests to me that a bad ground may be occurring, and methodical checks with a meter will tell one way or the other.
IF all this new work involved a soldering iron, some of us have experienced soldered wires breaking due to vibration. The strands break where the tinning ends.
this is why manufacturers use crimped wire connections, they are more vibration resistant
Mike
I'd really look at your charging system before looking at the bars. ( these problems may not be related)
there are a couple of universal truths:
a bad battery can destroy the charging system.
a stator can destroy the VR
the VR can discharge the battery
and cables can be loose or corrode internally
as suggested above, a few minutes with a voltmeter will tell you if the stator is good, if the VR is good.
ALL checks MUST be done with a known good, fully charged battery.
A trickle charger or tender is NOT a battery charger. It will maintain a charged battery ( "tend") but not re-charge a discharged battery.
I posted a thread last year on a neighbor who spent $1300 on repairing the charging system and battery- to find that a $12 battery cable was responsible for all that expensive stuff blowing up.
The electrical system is really easy to check, if the 'checker" has an understanding of what each part does.
everything described above suggests to me that a bad ground may be occurring, and methodical checks with a meter will tell one way or the other.
IF all this new work involved a soldering iron, some of us have experienced soldered wires breaking due to vibration. The strands break where the tinning ends.
this is why manufacturers use crimped wire connections, they are more vibration resistant
Mike
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,637
Likes: 1,246
From: Lake, Ms
My point about the shield and what bars your using is this...even with a sheath those sharps bends in the MBB's can cut into your wiring when pulling the wires. I'd be compelled to stick a test light on the bars and see if you've got current going thru your bars.
2010 Limited with some stuff
2010 Limited with some stuff
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,421
Likes: 380
From: Arkansastan
My point about the shield and what bars your using is this...even with a sheath those sharps bends in the MBB's can cut into your wiring when pulling the wires. I'd be compelled to stick a test light on the bars and see if you've got current going thru your bars.
2010 Limited with some stuff
2010 Limited with some stuff
I changed bars on the wife's RK and used a sheath as well (internal wired bars). When I first powered up a couple of the switches did not work right, and some not at all. BUT I USED A SHEATH! CAN'T be something like a shorted wire... Well, long story short, when I reinstalled the controls I inadvertently pinched the harness. had to cut down the sheath to see that one wire was shorted to ground, two others were shorted to each other. Sheath looked ok, wires underneath were not.
IF after checking this, go to the receptacle (use a current schematic) and make sure the wires are in the proper holes in the receptacle. It is easy to have it upside down and wire it 180* out.
IF after all that checks good, THEN move along to the charging system. Since you stated the problem happened after you changed bars, start there FIRST. yes, it can be coincidental or possible that your charging system may have taken a dump around the same time as your bar change, I would start at the bars first since this was the latest modification done to the bike. Please reply with what you find.
Lastly, CHECK ALL GROUNDS!!!!
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,896
From: Bedford UK
Mixter, you have electrical problems. We are pointing out that all is not good and the things you should investigate further. You can create a list for yourself out of the posts above, so let us know what you find. Nothing will change if you insist all is well and nothing is wrong. Read all the posts above again, slowly. There is an enormous wealth of experience in what has been written.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 345
Likes: 27
From: Ohio
Like I said in earlier post, my problem started with the new bars. And in the end the rubbed wire was at the very top against the switch where it was still in original wire sheath. It was getting pinched between the two halfs and being rubbed by the throttle grip as I turned it. You could barley see the rub through. It takes almost no opening in a wire cover to cause the short. Mine was pretty easy to narrow down since it didnt short and blow fuse till you hit start switch.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
It seems to be more than one problem, so the approach needs to be methodical.
And checks can only be done with a working charging/battery system.
If there is a problem with power being supplied to the system(s) then the systems cannot be tested reliably
IF there is a short in the "hot" wiring through the bars- he should be popping fuses. no mention of that.
intermittent bar controls sounds more like not enough control voltage ( resistance in the added wiring/ bad joints/broken wires or dead battery/charging system etc.) OR a bad ground(s)
electricity is easy and logical.
To fix it you have to start with basic diagnosis, otherwise it's just parts replacement, which anyone can do- replace enough parts and you certainly fix a problem...but by then you might have a whole new bike- and a hole in your wallet.
if you have a minute, a story:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...cable-pic.html
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Mar 14, 2014 at 05:45 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
If he had issues before and after a winter storage, but the bars were done before the storage. That is my understanding while speed reading here. To the OP, your indy is leading you down a rosy path to a smaller bank account. He needs to step up and troubleshoot his work or get someone that knows what they are doing.
Rule of thumb. If you get nothing else out of this issue, ALWAYS remember, when an issue pops up, before you go making a list of assumptions, look back and see what human hands were the last ones to take something apart and reassemble 99% of the time that is where the issue lies. Good luck, Electrical issues suck.
Rule of thumb. If you get nothing else out of this issue, ALWAYS remember, when an issue pops up, before you go making a list of assumptions, look back and see what human hands were the last ones to take something apart and reassemble 99% of the time that is where the issue lies. Good luck, Electrical issues suck.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 163
Likes: 1
From: Broomall
This is the holy grail of threads with electrical issues...... But almeone tell me what a sheath is???? I have done jobs like this but may not know correct vocab. Hope this all helps you brotha! We have all been there
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
It is a protective loom sleeve that is put over a wiring harness to protect it from chaffing